LJ78 | Family Camper Build | NZ (1 Viewer)

[JDM Journeys]

Great documentation of the build! And the results so far look awesome!

I always felt like the silver over navy scheme was too low on the beltline and gave the impression of the truck's pants falling down. My hzj77 has same factory paint yours did. Using all one color has transformed yours! Love it!

Interesting idea (w/a i/c). I'd never really considered it before but might be a nice alternative once I actually get some forced induction... Fitting a FMIC just seems like a real pain but this looks a great option.

Cheers from your freezing cold commonwealth cousin!

 

[nomadtribe]

Great documentation of the build! And the results so far look awesome!

I always felt like the silver over navy scheme was too low on the beltline and gave the impression of the truck's pants falling down. My hzj77 has same factory paint yours did. Using all one color has transformed yours! Love it!

Interesting idea (w/a i/c). I'd never really considered it before but might be a nice alternative once I actually get some forced induction... Fitting a FMIC just seems like a real pain but this looks a great option.

Cheers from your freezing cold commonwealth cousin!

Thank you @JDM Journeys

 

[nomadtribe]

It has been a while since my last post... a lot has happened

Having done 7,000 km with the truck during the rebuild, it had to break down 700 km into our holiday adventure - Touring the North and South islands of New Zealand.

Unfortunately my head / head gasket has gone, including my speedo cable and viscus fan

We had some really bad weather in NZ the last few weeks, but slowly getting to a point where I can take the head off.

Question - Does anyone have an idea on how to remove the EGR piping from a LJ78 / 2LTE? It seems the simplest way would be to either:

- Remove the head and manifolds as one unit or
- Loosen the EGR housing and exhaust manifold and take it out as a unit.

Getting into the back to remove the EGR seems like a crazy approach.

A few photos attached from the trip:

 

[nomadtribe]

Finally we have arrived at getting the head off (2LTE) with the cleaning started.

New viscus fan, thermostat, head gasket, water pump, belt cover plate and other gaskets ordered.

Also found the water temp sensor under the intake manifold to be in 2 pieces. Luckily I have ordered one a while back.

In the head, there were a number of small metal pieces, almost look like nails... very strange.

Any recommendations or thoughts before putting things back together?

 

[Houser]

Looks like #1and 3 pistons are kinda beat up and you definitely need a new water pump housing. As pitted as that water pump housing is Im surprised the the water pump is working at all. Those peace's of metal you found in the head were likely the remains of the top rings from #1and 3 pistons. Sorry for the gloom n doom but looks like your engine could use a rebuild.

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

I think the block/pistons/bores look ok. Its common for the piston tops and top of the cylinder bores to look pitted after a cylinder head has cracked. The leaking coolant eats away slowly at the metal. Every single 2LTE of the head cracking vintage looks like this when the head is being replaced. If the motor started ok before, than the compression is probably fine; meaning bottom end is ok. Only think I see that might concern me a little bit are the vertical wear in #2 bore.

The metal bits in they cylinder head are concerning. Remove the cam and inspect the bearings in the cylinder head. If the shells look good with out gouges, likely all your bearings are also fine. You're replacing the head, so it doesn't matter if the metal bits damaged the head it's self. Might want to drop the oil pan to make sure nothing made it down in there.

There's lots of tips about replacing the head:

- Clean things well (which you have).
- Chase the head bolt holes with the right size metric tap. Clean them with brake clean, and blow them out with compressed air; it's very important they're clean.
- Use brand new toyota OEM head bolts and gasket set.
- Use the thickest OEM gasket to avoid valve/piston unhappiness causing failed big end bearings (this has happened far more than it should)
- I forget if you've done this or not, but use the opportunity to scrap EGR and install block-off plates. Also scrap throttle plate.
- MAKE SURE to use new aluminum crush washers at the injector nozzle when you re-install. All other washers can be re-used.
- Might also be an opporunity to get injectors serviced.
- Follow the service manual religiously step by step as you re-install the cylinder head.

It's a lot of work, but when done will give you peace of mind. I've beat the hell out of my 2LTE since new cylinder head for about 150,000km now and it runs great still.

Also, I have one of these if you want. Not sure if it's worth shipping around the world. This is not it, but I could look at mine to see what sort of shape it's in and send you actual pictures.

 

[nomadtribe]

I think the block/pistons/bores look ok. Its common for the piston tops and top of the cylinder bores to look pitted after a cylinder head has cracked. The leaking coolant eats away slowly at the metal. Every single 2LTE of the head cracking vintage looks like this when the head is being replaced. If the motor started ok before, than the compression is probably fine; meaning bottom end is ok. Only think I see that might concern me a little bit are the vertical wear in #2 bore.

The metal bits in they cylinder head are concerning. Remove the cam and inspect the bearings in the cylinder head. If the shells look good with out gouges, likely all your bearings are also fine. You're replacing the head, so it doesn't matter if the metal bits damaged the head it's self. Might want to drop the oil pan to make sure nothing made it down in there.

There's lots of tips about replacing the head:

- Clean things well (which you have).
- Chase the head bolt holes with the right size metric tap. Clean them with brake clean, and blow them out with compressed air; it's very important they're clean.
- Use brand new toyota OEM head bolts and gasket set.
- Use the thickest OEM gasket to avoid valve/piston unhappiness causing failed big end bearings (this has happened far more than it should)
- I forget if you've done this or not, but use the opportunity to scrap EGR and install block-off plates. Also scrap throttle plate.
- MAKE SURE to use new aluminum crush washers at the injector nozzle when you re-install. All other washers can be re-used.
- Might also be an opporunity to get injectors serviced.
- Follow the service manual religiously step by step as you re-install the cylinder head.

It's a lot of work, but when done will give you peace of mind. I've beat the hell out of my 2LTE since new cylinder head for about 150,000km now and it runs great still.

Also, I have one of these if you want. Not sure if it's worth shipping around the world. This is not it, but I could look at mine to see what sort of shape it's in and send you actual pictures.

Thank you @GTSSportCoupe

Greatly appreciate the feedback and offer for the part. In reality when compared to the photo and a bit of cleaning today, the water pump housing looks good.

- Bolt holes cleaned today with tap and compressor
- Hoping to pick up the gasket from Toyota tomorrow. Have requested the thickest one.
- EGR delete was done a while ago.
- New injector crush washers and got a pair rebuild about 4 months ago. Will be installing the newer set.

In addition, while I had everything removed, I also tackled the following:

- Replace the ECU Temp Sensor unit below the intake manifold. Not the nicest placement for a temp sensor.
- Cleaned every connector I could with CRC electric contact cleaner.
- Re-taped loose cables and damaged cable housings.
- Overall engine clean with degreaser (especially after blowing out the bolt holes
- Removed and cleaned the alternator.
- Checked all turbo oil pipes. The one down pipe going to the block is a bugger.

From the time I have bought the truck, I had no compression, excessive smoke or starting problems. Been serviced every 5000km since I had it. The previous owner also kept with the 5000km service schedules.

I should have clarified regarding the metal bits in the head. The bits were inside the water channels. I replaced the radiator about 8000km ago. May have been bits falling into the cooling system by accident over the years (before my time...)

Thanks again for the feedback and guidance.

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

Thank you @GTSSportCoupe

Greatly appreciate the feedback and offer for the part. In reality when compared to the photo and a bit of cleaning today, the water pump housing looks good.

- Bolt holes cleaned today with tap and compressor
- Hoping to pick up the gasket from Toyota tomorrow. Have requested the thickest one.
- EGR delete was done a while ago.
- New injector crush washers and got a pair rebuild about 4 months ago. Will be installing the newer set.

In addition, while I had everything removed, I also tackled the following:

- Replace the ECU Temp Sensor unit below the intake manifold. Not the nicest placement for a temp sensor.
- Cleaned every connector I could with CRC electric contact cleaner.
- Re-taped loose cables and damaged cable housings.
- Overall engine clean with degreaser (especially after blowing out the bolt holes
- Removed and cleaned the alternator.
- Checked all turbo oil pipes. The one down pipe going to the block is a bugger.

From the time I have bought the truck, I had no compression, excessive smoke or starting problems. Been serviced every 5000km since I had it. The previous owner also kept with the 5000km service schedules.

I should have clarified regarding the metal bits in the head. The bits were inside the water channels. I replaced the radiator about 8000km ago. May have been bits falling into the cooling system by accident over the years (before my time...)

Thanks again for the feedback and guidance.

That all sounds good!

I should clarify that it is possible to tell which thickness your original head gasket was (if you still have it around) by looking at identifiers on it. You could also do a piston protrusion test and re-calculate it per the manual.

In my case, I've always just gone with the thickest gasket to be safe.

 

[nomadtribe]

The family camper is slowly getting back together, ready for the next trip in May

With the help of a friend, we managed to remove the old transfer case and bolted on the replacement last Friday evening.

Reason for removal - Front shaft gears were buggered. Horrible noise when hubs and 4x4 engaged

Overall it was not too bad. 4 hours in total to replace the case.

Notes (Not in any specific order):

- This was a transfer case on an 2LTE Auto.
- Removed cross member.
- Removed exhaust pipe.
- Removed 7 bolts - T-Case to Transmission.
- Removed RPM and Speedo Cable (Note the RPM sensor is at the top of the case).
- Unplugged 4 wires.
- Removed gear lever arm from case.
- The RPM sensor was added last to avoid any damage to the sensor.

 

[nomadtribe]

After a number of years, it is sadly time to say goodbye to Ramshorn, our awesome LJ78.

I have attached a few photos regarding how it looks today, with the New Zealand TradeMe listing if anyone is interested.

Thank you all on this forum for helping me rebuild my truck!

Special thank you to @AirheadNut and @GTSSportCoupe for all the wisdom and insight.

Hope to be on here again soon with a new project

TradeMe: Trade Me - https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/cars/toyota/listing/4603986180?bof=BqAJgcfU

 

[nomadtribe]

A few more photos.

 

[JuanJ]

Hello,

I hope it goes to a good home.





Juan

 

[JDM Journeys]

Best of luck with the sale. Always tough to let them go...

 

[nomadtribe]

Best of luck with the sale. Always tough to let them go...

Thank you @JDM Journeys

 

[nomadtribe]

Hello,

I hope it goes to a good home.





Juan

Thank you @JuanJ