LJ78 2LTE - Turbocharger Upgrade (2 Viewers)

[gotoy]

I do have castor correction bushing in my stock LJ78 arms right now. I don't like them because they are offset and stiff, so resist axle flex compared to normal bushings. If you look at the pictures in this thread, the 80 radius arm has more caster correction, but the problem is it's 12mm too short and doesn't clear the LJ78 steering components properly. It's not a good option. I think the best options are caster correction plates or a custom radius arm.

I have a 4" lift and using castor correction bushes. I don't have any problems.

Where would you fit castor correction plates? You mean these I take it, Caster Plate Kit to suit Landcruiser 105 Series


See these, Superior Hyperflex Radius Arms Suitable For Toyota Landcruiser 76/78/79 Series Pre 07-2016 | Superior Engineering

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

I have a 4" lift and using castor correction bushes. I don't have any problems.

Where would you fit castor correction plates? You mean these I take it, Caster Plate Kit to suit Landcruiser 105 Series


See these, Superior Hyperflex Radius Arms Suitable For Toyota Landcruiser 76/78/79 Series Pre 07-2016 | Superior Engineering

Hi gotoy, we actually moved this discussion to it's own thread a while back: Custom Radius Arms for the light duty 70 series?

Do you have any pictures of your KZJ71 (15BT) at full front flex?

Yes, those caster plates are the right idea. They make them for 80 series too.

The custom radius arms you linked to are for the heavy duty 70 land cruiser, but yes, that is the right idea. Here are some cheaper/simpler ones I was looking at for the light duty 70 cruiser: Pair Front radius arms Toyota KZJ/LJ 70

How are you enjoying your 15BT? I love the idea of swapping one of those motors into my LJ78 someday. Your build is one of my favorites on mud.

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

As I seem to not be finding time to make a manifold adapter for my TD04L, I've approached this ebay seller to see if he could make one for me. If the TD04L works out well, an ebay adapter could be an easy way for others to upgrade also. I've asked if the seller could simply modify this adapter to work for CT20. (CT26 bolt pattern is 70x80mm, and CT20 is 70x70mm). I've also asked if it can transition from square manifold outlet to round turbo inlet. WRX Subaru Turbo Flange Adapter to CT26 Manifold 13B Header STI EJ25 EJ20 TD05 | eBay - https://www.ebay.com/itm/143559830034?ul_noapp=true

 

[John in Utah]

As I seem to not be finding time to make a manifold adapter for my TD04L, I've approached this ebay seller to see if he could make one for me. If the TD04L works out well, an ebay adapter could be an easy way for others to upgrade also. I've asked if the seller could simply modify this adapter to work for CT20. (CT26 bolt pattern is 70x80mm, and CT20 is 70x70mm). I've also asked if it can transition from square manifold outlet to round turbo inlet. WRX Subaru Turbo Flange Adapter to CT26 Manifold 13B Header STI EJ25 EJ20 TD05 | eBay - https://www.ebay.com/itm/143559830034?ul_noapp=true

I’d really like to see one of these available as an easy upgrade option. Seems odd there aren’t any on eBay already honestly.

Maybe we can commission @gerg to modify the hole pattern on the adapter he makes for his 3B kit:

 

[AirheadNut]

Mine might not be quite as pretty, but it’s not terribly hard to make a turbo adapter. I used a cutting torch, drill press, holesaw and carbide burr on a die grinder. The surface isn’t ideal on hot rolled plate, but cold rolled should be good enough, or use a copper gasket like I did.

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

Ebay seller was pretty useless. I was sort of hoping the seller was actually the guy machining the adapters, but he wasn't. Anyhow, back to the drawing board. I agree, making my own is ideal. Just hard to find time is all.

The Gerg style would have the turbo sit too high and probably hit the hood. Needs to be something more like what @AirheadNut made.

 

[hiluxjeremy]

For what its worth, application being my '90 LN106, 3L with 2LT-E manifold, TD04xx-13t, the adapter I came up with is the same style as @gerg. Funny how that happens. I ended up clocking compressor housing, modifying wastegate accuator to match and was able to get existing charge tubing from previous CT20 setup to work.

Very busy engine bay. Very tight. Everything fits under the hood with exception of i/c fans that poke slightly into cavity provided by bolt on scoop from a Subaru of some sort. Not pretty, but it works.

 

[gerg]

You've done some nice nesting! Great choice of turbo too. I think it will be a very good match. Clocking the housings are pretty easy just be sure to always remove the dowel pins. Lots of damage if you don't. Nice work with that oil drain. Pretty tight there. Looking forward to seeing some info on performance. I always thought you would see it kicking in somewhere around 1800 but that's just a guesstimate.

 

[gerg]

I have tried to make adaptors like your CAD drawing nick but ran into oil drain issues if I remember correctly. Making custom oil drains became a somewhat involved and expensive rabit hole and I gave up. That style adaptor is easy. How it alters the relationship of the other components is another matter. There is a company in Seattle that makes custom turbo oil drains strangely. Most water jet companies can make that adaptor nicely minus taping bolt holes.

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

I have tried to make adaptors like your CAD drawing nick but ran into oil drain issues if I remember correctly. Making custom oil drains became a somewhat involved and expensive rabit hole and I gave up. That style adaptor is easy. How it alters the relationship of the other components is another matter. There is a company in Seattle that makes custom turbo oil drains strangely. Most water jet companies can make that adaptor nicely minus taping bolt holes.

Hey Greg, thanks for chiming in. So the oil drain has to be perfectly vertical? Can't be off by just a few degrees? I'll look at a wedge style adapter if I have to.

 

[AirheadNut]

Do you happen to know the bolt size and inlet dimensions for the CT20? It's a work in progress, but it's getting there:

 

[gerg]

So the bearing housing I believe has to be within 15 degrees of verticle but the drain itself has to do just with resistance of flow causing pooling in the bearing housing and oil migration through the seals on the compressor and turbine side. I have no way of telling if a drain will cause it to back up unless you actually run it. My problem was getting a drain that made the bends needed to physically fit. I never got to the testing of the flow stage. For me I was trying to simplify my fabrication. I ended up simplifying one area and increasing complexity in two others and one area I couldn't solve at all so I abandoned it.

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

Do you happen to know the bolt size and inlet dimensions for the CT20? It's a work in progress, but it's getting there:
View attachment 2566340

Nice work!

I believe the bolts are M10, but will check tonight. I don't have an extra 2lte manifold, but I do have a gasket. I'll measure the gasket inside dimensions and let you know. Do you need any measurements from the turbo?

 

[AirheadNut]

If you could confirm measurements on the TD04 flange also that would be great; I couldn't find dimensions online so I based mine on a scaled image using the inlet size. Also, it appears that the TD04 uses studs in all three holes like the CT20? So the adapter plate would need to have those three holes tapped. Luckily because of the odd shape of the TD04 inlet flange none of the holes will have to be countersunk, all the fasteners will be accessible.

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

If you could confirm measurements on the TD04 flange also that would be great; I couldn't find dimensions online so I based mine on a scaled image using the inlet size. Also, it appears that the TD04 uses studs in all three holes like the CT20? So the adapter plate would need to have those three holes tapped. Luckily because of the odd shape of the TD04 inlet flange none of the holes will have to be countersunk, all the fasteners will be accessible.

Yes, you're correct regarding the TD04 using studs. I found some pictures of the turbo in OEM WRX application (below).

Sure, I'll take measurements tonight. Will provide a sketch with the dimensions.

 

[Waikato Willy]

 

[Waikato Willy]

View attachment 2566679

not sure if these are any use, I put a WRX turbo ( TD05?) on my nissan patrol paddock truck and did these flanges a while back

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

not sure if these are any use, I put a WRX turbo ( TD05?) on my nissan patrol paddock truck and did these flanges a while back

Awesome, thanks! I'll just double check this against the TD04 I have at home. You've made my job much easier.

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

If you could confirm measurements on the TD04 flange also that would be great; I couldn't find dimensions online so I based mine on a scaled image using the inlet size. Also, it appears that the TD04 uses studs in all three holes like the CT20? So the adapter plate would need to have those three holes tapped. Luckily because of the odd shape of the TD04 inlet flange none of the holes will have to be countersunk, all the fasteners will be accessible.

Waikato Willy's TD04L dimensions are correct. His drawing is from perspective of the manifold. Basically imagine you're looking down at the 2LTE manifold. 'Up' in his drawing is toward the valve cover.

The 2LTE manifold gasket opening is 56mm x 52mm. Bolt spacing is confirmed at 70mm x 70mm. I'd have to look at a manifold picture to remember which dimension is the wide one.

Edit, found picture (thanks nas90tdi). From the picture, it appears the vertical (height) is the larger 56mm and horizontal (width) is smaller 52mm.

Another edit: Just took this photo of gasket in correct orientation on TD04L flange.

 

[AirheadNut]

Awesome! I'll do some adjusting to the drawing.