LJ78 2L-TE - blown? What to do... (1 Viewer)

[GreenPump]

would be a direct fit to my 2LTE block

It should be. I'd like to have someone else chime in on this one to make double sure. But my understanding is the heads are completely interchangeable. In fact all the FSM data is the exact same in my 3L/2L engine book, for almost everything.

You also have an option of buying the bare cylinder head and building it with toyota valvetrain parts (your machine shop can do this for a couple hours of labor). But I think the stuff HD sells is on par with OEM. Valvetrain parts are cheap, even for good Japanese parts.

Go on partsouq and price out the other stuff. If you need help making a list of what to order, I'm happy to assist.

Also look around for a machine shop to hone your block (and probably your crank). Go to a shop that works specifically on engines. They won't blink an eye at your 2L. To them it won't matter that it's a non domestic vehicle. I printed off my factory spec sheets and dropped it off, they didn't even look at it, and everything was perfect.

 

[JuanJ]

Hello,

It is possible to put in a 1UZ engine. However, fabrication/adaptation requires time and money.

Putting in a 1KZ engine or a replacement 2L-TE engine may also involve fabrication, and money.

Late model 2L heads are more reliable. It is possible to repair the engine using one of these heads. Less headache, less fabrication and less expensive.

Check @GTSSportCoupe 's threads for more information on how to make the 2L-TE engine more reliable.

If you do decide on repairing the 2L you have, make sure you let it idle for a while after sustaining high speeds/high rpms. It is a simple way to keep it in good shape. Remember that it is a rather small engine moving a big vehicle.





Juan

 

[Jonesey]

Hello,

It is possible to put in a 1UZ engine. However, fabrication/adaptation requires time and money.

Putting in a 1KZ engine or a replacement 2L-TE engine may also involve fabrication, and money.

Late model 2L heads are more reliable. It is possible to repair the engine using one of these heads. Less headache, less fabrication and less expensive.

Check @GTSSportCoupe 's threads for more information on how to make the 2L-TE engine more reliable.

If you do decide on repairing the 2L you have, make sure you let it idle for a while after sustaining high speeds/high rpms. It is a simple way to keep it in good shape. Remember that it is a rather small engine moving a big vehicle.





Juan

Thanks for the input. I have done a number of the reliability things, including: gauges to monitor coolant temp, boost, and EGT (first thing I did beyond normal fluid changes, new air filter and new fuel filter - about a year ago), air-air front mounted intercooler, 2.5" turbo-back custom exhaust, and EGR delete. I always let truck idle until EGT is below 400F and coolant temps drop back down to about 182F before turning truck off. All of those reasons are why rebuilding the 2LTE is likely where I'll go with this. It just burned a large amount of oil in short time and I didn't realize it had done that. Months prior I was only losing about 1/2 quart to a quart in the same timeframe.

 

[Jonesey]

Anyone know if this short block would work for my 1991 LJ78 2L-TE with auto trans? If yes, considering this route with a new 3L head instead of rebuilding bottom end.

Pardon Our Interruption...

Or is this not a great idea, because of inferior quality (guessing this is reman/not genuine Toyota)?

 

[OGBeno]

Anyone know if this short block would work for my 1991 LJ78 2L-TE with auto trans? If yes, considering this route with a new 3L head instead of rebuilding bottom end.

Pardon Our Interruption...

Contact them and ask.

 

[Houser]

The pictures do not look like a 2lte.

 

[OGBeno]

The pictures do not look like a 2lte.

The advertisement states that the picture is only for illustration. Which is why I absolutely would not buy that short block.

 

[Jonesey]

The advertisement states that the picture is only for illustration. Which is why I absolutely would not buy that short block.

I did write them, but yes, wow, good advice - last thing I need is a nightmare bad or wrong part. Thanks.

Planning to pull motor in coming weeks - my dad has a hoist in his shop, going to trailer it there and dig into it. I'll bring motor back to my garage, get an engine stand and start going through it.

 

[Ash Awbery]

I feel your pain, I was in a similar situation last year when my wife over heated my engine (my fault the radiator was filled with mud) I thought about a 1uz swap but fuel is expensive in the UK, so I wanted to keep it diesel, although I do have a 1uz engine and gearbox mounted to a LJ78 transfer case, no idea how well that was done as I never used it.

I also wanted to keep it auto so I decided to take a 1kz-te from a Hilux surf, mounted the engine/bellhousing/torque converter to my LJ78 gearbox, first I tried to make the 1kz-te pump work with my ecu but couldn’t get the fueling right, I then tried the 2lte injection pump but it also wouldn’t run right.

In the end I fitted a Mitsubishi 4M40 manual injector pump, mainly because I already had one and 1kz-t pumps are rare, even though the were actually sold in the UK! I got some really good info from the guys on this forum.

I got a Spitronics aftermarket gearbox controller but haven’t fitted it yet, I am currently running the Auto as a manual and really like the control of the gearshift and the ease of the T/C.

The wife still doesn’t mind driving it either!

 

[Jonesey]

I feel your pain, I was in a similar situation last year when my wife over heated my engine (my fault the radiator was filled with mud) I thought about a 1uz swap but fuel is expensive in the UK, so I wanted to keep it diesel, although I do have a 1uz engine and gearbox mounted to a LJ78 transfer case, no idea how well that was done as I never used it.

I also wanted to keep it auto so I decided to take a 1kz-te from a Hilux surf, mounted the engine/bellhousing/torque converter to my LJ78 gearbox, first I tried to make the 1kz-te pump work with my ecu but couldn’t get the fueling right, I then tried the 2lte injection pump but it also wouldn’t run right.

In the end I fitted a Mitsubishi 4M40 manual injector pump, mainly because I already had one and 1kz-t pumps are rare, even though the were actually sold in the UK! I got some really good info from the guys on this forum.

I got a Spitronics aftermarket gearbox controller but haven’t fitted it yet, I am currently running the Auto as a manual and really like the control of the gearshift and the ease of the T/C.

The wife still doesn’t mind driving it either!

Nice! Thanks, yes, painful. Head gasket definitely went out in addition to rod knock sound I was hearing. After sitting in garage for a couple weeks, there is coolant on cardboard that I've had under it - near front of engine. Exhaust manifold side of engine is dry, intake side is wet and oily.

I took glow plugs out and turned it over a couple times with hopes of spraying out any coolant/water that may have gotten into cylinders - fear of rust. I have now drained oil, removed filter and drained coolant, as well.

That sounds like an interesting setup - curious to learn more about the auto-as-manual function.

 

[Jonesey]

Here are a couple photos from initial take apart - a lot of oil post turbo. Took intercooler piping off, pulled glow plugs, pulled head cover.

 

[GreenPump]

Definitely a wet looking glow plug. Is that antisieze on there or some kind of metallic muck out of the cylinder???

Also I'd definitely stay away from that built bottom end. Do it yourself and be sure. Crap parts will be a nightmare later.

 

[Jonesey]

Definitely a wet looking glow plug. Is that antisieze on there or some kind of metallic muck out of the cylinder???

Also I'd definitely stay away from that built bottom end. Do it yourself and be sure. Crap parts will be a nightmare later.

Agree re: crap parts, thanks for that advice / encouragement. Also glad you made glow plug comment, I had same thought. They did come out quite easily. Last owner told me they changed them, so they've been in there between 18-24 months. Hoping it's anti-seize. The silvery look of it on my hands upon wiping them off/seeing it drip down plug had me concerned, but I do think it looks like anti-seize.

 

[GreenPump]

The silvery look of it on my hands upon wiping them off/seeing it drip down plug had me concerned, but I do think it looks like anti-seize.

It's probably antiseize. I broke off a glow plug earlier this month and had to extract it. That's something you DON'T want to get "stuck" doing.

However that is like 10x the amount you need for those threads. When you reinstall you can use a bit.. but I think the p/o used a putty knife for that stuff.

 

[Jonesey]

Update on this:
Got the 2LTE out, on engine stand and all broken down. Scoring on cylinder walls 1 and 4 (makes sense) - was burning oil, ran low, got hot. Cylinder head cracked - no surprise there. Block, crankshaft, pistons, connecting rods - all sent to machine shop for inspection and machining as needed for rebuild (in process). Block was crack checked - all OK. Boring out 0.50mm once new pistons arrive, turning crankshaft to 0.5 U/S. Piston protrusion was measured and found to be slightly out of spec (on high end - so Type F head gasket). Will be checked again after crankshaft is turned, block is resurfaced, and new pistons in-hand. Will rebuild - bottom-up. New parts for rebuild on order. Went the #54131 Toyota 3L head route (new), new Toyota camshaft and bearing set coming along with that, too. My camshaft was nearly out of spec on lobe dims, so electing to replace. New valve train parts ordered. I'll try to post some photos at some point - hoping and praying this will be a worthwhile/successful rebuild.

 

[Jonesey]

What do you guys think about this damage on the inside of the oil pan? Ever seen this? Near front of pan. Based on what I saw upon taking everything apart, I'm struggling to understand/think this happened while under my ownership, but when this ran low on oil, I did have a knocking sound that did appear slightly louder towards front of engine. Crankshaft hitting pan, or...? I didn't find any spun main or rod bearings. I did find a bit of metal in bottom of pan. Machine shop said it appears crank was turned to 0.25mm U/S once before, which is why I'm going to 0.50mm U/S now. This one has me scratching my head. Thoughts?

You can also see rear end of crankshaft is grooved where rear main seal rides. I've read about this, seems there are mixed opinions about it / if it will cause leak problems at rear main seal. I may have machine shop sleeve it. If you have an opinion/suggestion, I'm open to hearing it.

Attaching photo of pan and then photos of crankshaft when it was still in block...to relate the two to each other/for reference to the damaged area.

 

[Jonesey]

Update on rebuild: nearly complete with assembly on the stand. New washers for injectors, fuel rail, and fuel hose to rail show up today, then I can button up intake side.

When I go to install engine, question on bellhousing-to-block and torque converter bolt torque pecs:
I have the RM183e manual, but in manual it says these pages/specs are for the A440F, but I have the A343F.

1. For the bellhousing, the RM183e states torque spec of 13 ft-lbs for 8mm bolt, 27 ft-lbs for the 10mm bolts and 53 ft-lbs for the 12 mm bolts. Does this seem accurate/OK for A343F to 2LTE?
2. For the (6) torque converter bolts the RM183e manual states torque spec of 21 ft-lbs for the 3F engine and 40 ft-lbs for the 1H engine, but I have the 2LTE with the A343F...so what about that scenario? Struggling to find manual or reputable information about this specific application. I found one source that says 30 ft-lbs. What have others on here used with success?

Some rebuild process photos below - new alfin/oil galley pistons, rods, bearing sets, new head/camshaft/valve train...machine work done (stated in previous post).

There was a lot of work done, of course, between photo 1 (pulling engine) to photo 2 (crank in block just before rod/piston install). All gasket surfaces and parts cleaned/rebuilt, etc...

 

[GreenPump]

Looking good!

For the (6) torque converter bolts the RM183e manual states torque spec of 21 ft-lbs for the 3F engine and 40 ft-lbs for the 1H engine, but I have the 2LTE with the A343F...so what about that scenario? Struggling to find manual or reputable information about this specific application.

For this type of thing, you've got a reference table in the back of your FSM, called "standard bolt torque specifications". Find the correct size and thread pitch, use the corresponding torque spec along with some loctite 241.

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

@Jonesey I can' believe you just rebuilt a motor without the FSM!! RM183e is the 70 series chassis manual, it's not for the engines. Each Toyota engine has it's own manuals. I have pdf of all these and used to host them, but got tired of it.

Before you put the engine back in the vehicle, you should really run through the engine manual to make sure you got everything right.

I just did a quick search, and found the manuals hosted by someone else....here's the links:

RM520E (Main for 2L, 3L & 5L engines)

Dropbox - 2L 3L 5L ENGINE RM520E.pdf

RM582E (Supplement for 2L, 2L-T, 3L and 5L engines)

https://www.dropbox.com/s/1joci2o0xtg6ujv/2L%2C2L-T%2C3L%2C5L ENGINE SUP. RM582E.pdf?dl=0

 

[GreenPump]

@Jonesey can' believe you just rebuilt a motor without the FSM!!

Don't worry, I'm pretty sure he has 36251E, the 2L/2LTE engine manual.