Anyone have pics of a fully bedlinered 60-series?
Line-X’ed 60-series
- Thread starter vjr021
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Gretsch
SILVER Star
Here is one. Guy has spent weeks removing it because its horrible. Like absolutely horrible. Proof with great power comes great responsibility and just because you does not mean you should:
Please don't do it. Please.
Please don't do it. Please.
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- Thread starter
- #3
Well, I wasn’t thinking orange... but it’s that bad, huh?
My personal favorite by one of our best @TRAIL TAILOR
forum.ih8mud.com
Gossamer- '87 FJ60 aka "The Red Monster"
I’m back… couldn’t stay away… 63 days to be exact :rolleyes: I recently bought Wyoming’s rig and picked it up today and drove it home… It is a ’87 FJ60 w/ Cummins 4BT, Ranger splitter, H55F and 4.56 gears. There is some work that needs done ASAP and I will address it as soon as...
forum.ih8mud.com
@klinetime574 I love Monstaliner. Once you know how to work with it its a great product. It cleans easily, nice texture (if you're patient) , easy to touch up IF ever needed and no UV fade. Run it through limbs/branches all day and just laugh.
Most that install the roll on liners are impatient or don't work the product and it ends up rough and has a "sharp" or pointed texture. Looks like crap and is a PITA to clean.
I let mine self level and it has a large, but smooth orange peel look and feel to it. For a 60 that is going to be wheeled/used other than a daily driver that goes from garage to work and back...... new paint for this type of rig is the perfect definition of idiocy. Kind of like powder coating sliders....
I can strip it off easily, repair and touch it up for 1/25th of the price of a cheap paint job these days and it looks fresh again.
I just finished a 309 red paint job, wet sanded with 2500 grit and polished on my 84 and I don't even want to drive it now... Absolutely ruined that 60 for me. It'll go in the garage and sit now until I decide to sell it.
But to each their own. It's your rig and at the end of the day if you like it... who gives a s*** what anyone else thinks.
J
Most that install the roll on liners are impatient or don't work the product and it ends up rough and has a "sharp" or pointed texture. Looks like crap and is a PITA to clean.
I let mine self level and it has a large, but smooth orange peel look and feel to it. For a 60 that is going to be wheeled/used other than a daily driver that goes from garage to work and back...... new paint for this type of rig is the perfect definition of idiocy. Kind of like powder coating sliders....
I can strip it off easily, repair and touch it up for 1/25th of the price of a cheap paint job these days and it looks fresh again.
I just finished a 309 red paint job, wet sanded with 2500 grit and polished on my 84 and I don't even want to drive it now... Absolutely ruined that 60 for me. It'll go in the garage and sit now until I decide to sell it.
But to each their own. It's your rig and at the end of the day if you like it... who gives a s*** what anyone else thinks.
J
This one is for sale
1983 Toyota Land Cruiser FJ60
This has been threw a full makeover. Engine rebuilt, interior redone, new suspension, bed liner paintjob. It has been a project for 5 years. It has a Monstaliner Brown bed liner paint job to protect...
phoenix.craigslist.org
My son bought his 62 bed linered and is having hell getting it removed. I would hate it on mine but others appreciate it. Different strokes...
- Thread starter
- #9
I suppose I know the risks involved. Maybe a less collectible vehicle
I see both sides. Take my FJ60 for example. It was my Dad’s, I’ve had it for a long time. Never gonna get rid of it. It’s been re-sprayed once and I’ve rattle canned the roof because that paint came off. My garage re-spray has started to come off already. A quality re-spray would be no less than $8k and last another 10 years or so. Invest that same money in Monstaliner and it would last longer, wouldn’t scratch, wouldn’t fade, don’t have to wax it, the list goes on.
The purist in me wants original paint like it came off the lot. BUT how pure is my FJ60? Lights, bumper, winch, lift, wheels, tires, locker, aftermarket stereo. Kinda far from pure. My short term plan is to get the body straight and spray paint the areas that need it. Long term? TBD.
Kind of echoes what some of y’all said but just my 2 cents
The purist in me wants original paint like it came off the lot. BUT how pure is my FJ60? Lights, bumper, winch, lift, wheels, tires, locker, aftermarket stereo. Kinda far from pure. My short term plan is to get the body straight and spray paint the areas that need it. Long term? TBD.
Kind of echoes what some of y’all said but just my 2 cents
- Thread starter
- #11
The one I’m looking at had lights on the roof, so I need to get the holes welded, my thought was to just liner the roof.
Purple strip discs. @Roark Supply sells them and is a vendor here. I've used them many times with good results.
The black on my donor rig had liner (IIRC AL's Liner) and 10 discs and 5 hours later I was down to OEM primer and bare metal and no warping. 36 grit on a 4.5" will make short work of it as well but be prepared for 2-4 coats of high build polyester and blocks sanding for awhile... Yep done that too.
Works case --- aircraft stripper and a long weekend.
J
Yep, here’s mine. Rolled it on two years ago. There’s plenty more 60s in the Monstaliner Bedliner thread in Paint/Body, too.
I'll pass the tip along. Thanks
I bought a parts truck that was lined up to the door handles. I believe it had been covered for about 8-10 years. The body had rusted out pretty badly from behind the liner in all of the usual areas. The liner did a good job hiding that but the truck was structurally compromised.
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- #16
Sounds like they didn’t apply it with proper prep. I’ve had friends with Their truck bed lined for years and they were fine under.
Could very well be! My assumption was they started with a truck that was already beginning to rust and did nothing on the back side to encapsulate.
Most do it to hide rust, rolled panels, door dings and bad body work. Its cheap lipstick for most applicants. I'd never buy a lined rig unless I could see pics of the pre prep and final surface prior to liner (before and during stages).
A majority of the body shops here (rods and restorations) use spray/roll liner for undercoating and back of panel coating. I was surprised but makes sense if the prep is done correctly.
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The problem I see with bedliner on a old cruiser is that old cruisers have hidden rust in places you can't see. If you were to drill out all the spot welds of a panel and remove it, on almost all cruisers you will see rust in between all those spot welds. That's because Toyota did not seam seal the spot welds very well. So moisture and corrosives have been getting to those seams for years. With paint the seam can at least breath a little usually and keep the seams fairly dry which slowes rust. With bedliner moisture gets trapped and rust accelerates underneath it. I watched this happen to my dad's cruiser in the quarter panels. Their are spot welded seams in the quarter panels. Moisture thrown up from the tires got into the quarter panel seams and rust out the panel. When the rust gets under the bedliner it accelerates quickly. I have no problems with paint. My fj40 has seen lots of trails, I did a paint job on it in 99. Yes it got some scratches. I'm OK with that, but really the paint was pretty good and turned heads. A buff job would have taken out most of the scratches. I just got it painted again 2 years ago because I noticed rust coming back. A simple color like most cruisers are painted are easy to touch up. Sand the panel with 600 grit, clean, tape, and reshoot the panel. You could also clear bra the whole vehicle. Quality clear bra is somewhat self healing, and can also be healed with a heat gun. You can also remove the clear bra and replace with new if it gets really beat up. Here is the paint on my 40 from just before I addressed the rust again. It was painted in 99. I think it held up to wheeling pretty well.
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Bedliner always means there is/was rust. Don't fall for it as a buyer.
