- Thread starter
- #421
I'm not sure I have so much to do I need to think about it and prioritize. Likely finish the rear cross member mods if my plan works. Hope to also have time to fit my accessories and see what I'm dealing with there.
Build Lexus LX450 Cummins 6bt/NV4500 swap
- Thread starter Wheelingnoob
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
I'm not sure I have so much to do I need to think about it and prioritize. Likely finish the rear cross member mods if my plan works. Hope to also have time to fit my accessories and see what I'm dealing with there.
Get the cross member sorted first, I think you will surprise yourself on the accessories and more pretty quick. I am bummed that,I need to pull,my accessories back off. Just realised that I have the heater return line nipple pointing towards the oil filter boss...I need it to face down for better hose routing.
The Forge Specialties guys on their latest LS swap thread into a 60 had a similar problem with the transmission crossmember in their application. Their fix was pretty slick. Looks like it'll work perfectly in your setup too! Your extension will be towards the back, but you get the idea.
Forge Specialties, An FJ62 gets a 5.3 LS V8
Forge Specialties, An FJ62 gets a 5.3 LS V8
Forge Specialties, An FJ62 gets a 5.3 LS V8
Forge Specialties, An FJ62 gets a 5.3 LS V8
- Thread starter
- #424
Thanks, Looks like they are using the stock Toyota mount. I had thought about doing that but having already broke one with the Isuzu and 3:1 marlin low range I decided to go with the Dodge mount.The Forge Specialties guys on their latest LS swap thread into a 60 had a similar problem with the transmission crossmember in their application. Their fix was pretty slick. Looks like it'll work perfectly in your setup too! Your extension will be towards the back, but you get the idea.
Forge Specialties, An FJ62 gets a 5.3 LS V8
Forge Specialties, An FJ62 gets a 5.3 LS V8
I have a planned hatched and just need to get some materials today then hopefully have some time tomorrow to try it out.
- Thread starter
- #425
Had 4 hours today to work on the truck. Continued working on the rear crossmember I got some .120 wall DOM in 1 1/4" OD and used my hole saw on the drill press to do this.
Plan is to slide the DOM in and use it as a base to bolt the mount too. I also cut some 1/4" caps to weld on the DOM.
Here is a mock up of how they will sit. I will cut them down level with the cross member on both sides. This will allow a nut and socket in to bolt the dodge mount to the cross member. The DOM will act as a reinforcement for the holes cut in the cross member.
As I was about to start welding...... Pop pop..... Out of shielding gas. Went to get it refilled...... It's expired and needs to be re certified this week. So I moved onto other projects.
I took the core He351cw and removed the compressor wheel and turbine shaft. Then removed the c clips and locating pins to allow it to spin. I then bolted on the turbine and adjusted the CHRA to locate the oil lines. Then just set the compressor cover on becouse the C clip is a freaking bitch.
This seems to be the best position for the compressor outlet.
I mainly wanted to get an idea of what is going to be needed to attach the Wastegate. I have a plan I just need materials. Worse case I can make a spring gate in 30min.
So with a plan for thoes two things it was onto the shifter.
I first started cutting the tunnel. I wanted to cut as little as possible. I have these cool old school punch outs, got them years a go from a family friend.
You drill small hole for the bolt to go through then install the tool. Here you can see the drill hole next to a punched hole.
Once I had both punched out I just used a jig saw with a metal blade to connect them. I used some tin snips to clean it up and bit more then finished it off with a hand file to take the sharp bits off.
I have a new style shift plate that uses. The 4bolt shifter tower. There are two kinds of shift tower Chevy and Dodge, the chevy one is much lower profile and as an added bonus a shorter shift. It fits prefect and gives me tones of room.
Plan is to slide the DOM in and use it as a base to bolt the mount too. I also cut some 1/4" caps to weld on the DOM.
Here is a mock up of how they will sit. I will cut them down level with the cross member on both sides. This will allow a nut and socket in to bolt the dodge mount to the cross member. The DOM will act as a reinforcement for the holes cut in the cross member.
As I was about to start welding...... Pop pop..... Out of shielding gas. Went to get it refilled...... It's expired and needs to be re certified this week. So I moved onto other projects.
I took the core He351cw and removed the compressor wheel and turbine shaft. Then removed the c clips and locating pins to allow it to spin. I then bolted on the turbine and adjusted the CHRA to locate the oil lines. Then just set the compressor cover on becouse the C clip is a freaking bitch.
This seems to be the best position for the compressor outlet.
I mainly wanted to get an idea of what is going to be needed to attach the Wastegate. I have a plan I just need materials. Worse case I can make a spring gate in 30min.
So with a plan for thoes two things it was onto the shifter.
I first started cutting the tunnel. I wanted to cut as little as possible. I have these cool old school punch outs, got them years a go from a family friend.
You drill small hole for the bolt to go through then install the tool. Here you can see the drill hole next to a punched hole.
Once I had both punched out I just used a jig saw with a metal blade to connect them. I used some tin snips to clean it up and bit more then finished it off with a hand file to take the sharp bits off.
I have a new style shift plate that uses. The 4bolt shifter tower. There are two kinds of shift tower Chevy and Dodge, the chevy one is much lower profile and as an added bonus a shorter shift. It fits prefect and gives me tones of room.
- Thread starter
- #426
With the shifter base installed I then started working g on a shift lever. I got some 5/8th solid rod the other day and some .188 wall DOM that was just slightly too small an opening for the 5/8th's rod. I tossed the rod into the deep freeze for an hour to get good and cold then heated the DOM with a MAP gas torch to a red hot. I then slipped the frozen rod into the red hot DOM and wala! Shifter.
Note the cool frost line on the rod.
The other end of the DOM was threaded to M16x1.5 I need to weld a nut of the same thread on as this DOM ID is not small enough for the threads and it's got some slop. For now I just threaded it on for testing.
The rod is too long but I will cut it down later, I may put a bend in it as well. I want to cut it cut down and tight on the shifter base before I decide to bend it or not.
Low range selector just placed where I was t to try and locate it. I still need to make the plate for it to sit on.
My hope is with the shifter and Ta case selector in this arrangement I can use a 2nd Gen 4runner rubber shifter seal and shift boots.
I have lots of room in all gears with the t case selector in this location.
With that done as far as I could today with no weld gas I moved on again.
I then went back under the hood to do some mock up and see what I'm in for. I stated by bolting on the F800 accessory mount, A/C comp and Alternator...... Fits perfectly! No issues with hood clearance from what I can tell. I also bolted in the pass side battery box to make sure there was no interference there too.
All good with the battery box.
As you can see here, the top of the battery box has a seal that goes against the hood on a rib. So with the hood on I should have about 1.5" clearance to the hood.
Final 10min of the day was spent trying out the intake system should work well for now. I do plan on putting a air box on at some point but at this time I'm OK with this Donaldson filter for now.
Thats it for a few days till I get more materials and welding gas.
Cheers.
Note the cool frost line on the rod.
The other end of the DOM was threaded to M16x1.5 I need to weld a nut of the same thread on as this DOM ID is not small enough for the threads and it's got some slop. For now I just threaded it on for testing.
The rod is too long but I will cut it down later, I may put a bend in it as well. I want to cut it cut down and tight on the shifter base before I decide to bend it or not.
Low range selector just placed where I was t to try and locate it. I still need to make the plate for it to sit on.
My hope is with the shifter and Ta case selector in this arrangement I can use a 2nd Gen 4runner rubber shifter seal and shift boots.
I have lots of room in all gears with the t case selector in this location.
With that done as far as I could today with no weld gas I moved on again.
I then went back under the hood to do some mock up and see what I'm in for. I stated by bolting on the F800 accessory mount, A/C comp and Alternator...... Fits perfectly! No issues with hood clearance from what I can tell. I also bolted in the pass side battery box to make sure there was no interference there too.
All good with the battery box.
As you can see here, the top of the battery box has a seal that goes against the hood on a rib. So with the hood on I should have about 1.5" clearance to the hood.
Final 10min of the day was spent trying out the intake system should work well for now. I do plan on putting a air box on at some point but at this time I'm OK with this Donaldson filter for now.
Thats it for a few days till I get more materials and welding gas.
Cheers.
Damn, you got busy today! really nice work on the tunnel, looks cleaner than my opening. I like your cross member solution, i may need to borrow it.
- Thread starter
- #428
Yeah I did not want to make a mess of the tunnel so I took my time.
Go right ahead and use the crossmember idea. I wanted to try and get it posted today in hopes it would help you out.
i just ordered up some 1.25 DOM 
Need to find some rectangular tube now. Cheers.
Do you have any issue with your fuel filter touching the booster? I figured could make it barely clear...but then I would have a hell of a time servicing it in the future. I am going to make a distribution block keep the OEM fuel lines, but relocate the filter to the fender where its easy to service. It also makes getting to teh primer or starter much easier.
Need to find some rectangular tube now. Cheers.Do you have any issue with your fuel filter touching the booster? I figured could make it barely clear...but then I would have a hell of a time servicing it in the future. I am going to make a distribution block keep the OEM fuel lines, but relocate the filter to the fender where its easy to service. It also makes getting to teh primer or starter much easier.
- Thread starter
- #430
i just ordered up some 1.25 DOM
Do you have any issue with your fuel filter touching the booster? I figured could make it barely clear...but then I would have a hell of a time servicing it in the future. I am going to make a distribution block keep the OEM fuel lines, but relocate the filter to the fender where its easy to service. It also makes getting to teh primer or starter much easier.
My fuel filter is not the same I have the spin on fuel/water filter on mine. Mine is a 96 MY engine yours must be a 97 MY as they where the only 12v engines to get them. I have 3-4" clearance on my filter so it's a non issue for me. Do you have the older style on your other engine that you can rob?
Yes you are right, my motor is a 97 with the fuel bowl/water sensor that the filter sits inside of. My other motor is a 94, which I do not believe came with a fuel filter. I have a bunch of earl's fittings, fuel line, and aluminum block coming...will get it sorted
From what I read most folks switch from the fuel bowl to spin on type. 97+ got the fuel bowl.Yes you are right, my motor is a 97 with the fuel bowl/water sensor that the filter sits inside of. My other motor is a 94, which I do not believe came with a fuel filter. I have a bunch of earl's fittings, fuel line, and aluminum block coming...will get it sorted
I have a call into my Cummins dealer for a price on the screw in type filter assembly...they are interchangeable. If it's a silly amount I will proceed with my relocation plan.
Would I be able to get your motor number from your data plate, you know how those cummins guys are.
- Thread starter
- #438
I just got a OE fit fleetguard filter.
Same here although I have on a Wix at the moment. It was my spare I put on when the Fleetguard cracked. Still plan to replace with Fleetguard when needed.
I ordered up an Fleetguard FS1253 filter today, according to Geno's garage it's the right one for a 96.