Builds Lexus LX450 Cummins 6bt/NV4500 swap (2 Viewers)

[Wheelingnoob]

Anyone with a 12V have any input on AFC live? Looks like an amazing tuning tool for the P-pump.

http://www.powerdrivendiesel.com/afc-live/

I'm seriously intrested in it once I get my swap finished. More so for a way to fine tune the smoke out and adjust on the fly.

 

[Dirty Koala]

Anyone with a 12V have any input on AFC live? Looks like an amazing tuning tool for the P-pump.

AFC LIVE (PATENT PENDING) - Power Driven Diesel

I'm seriously intrested in it once I get my swap finished. More so for a way to fine tune the smoke out and adjust on the fly.

I heard about this product a year or so ago, but at the time couldn't find much about it since it was so new. If it works as they show, it will be a really useful tool to fine tune the fuel. I wonder what the difference between stage 1 & 2 is.

 

[Wheelingnoob]

I heard about this product a year or so ago, but at the time couldn't find much about it since it was so new. If it works as they show, it will be a really useful tool to fine tune the fuel. I wonder what the difference between stage 1 & 2 is.

Stage 2 has a override full fuel switch.

 

[Mr Cimarron]

Pretty sweet little gadget. There is also an adjustable fuel plate but it's not worth the price at $700 if you ask me.
12 Valve Cummins Attitude Adjuster Fuel Plate
When I replaced fuel plate and AFC Spring I lost about 1-1.5 mpg. Since it didn't blow anymore smoke than before I didn't adjust anything. Probably should think about fiddling with it do get my mileage back.

 

[Wheelingnoob]

Ordered this today.

Keating Machine, Inc. - HE351 Exhaust Flange to 3”

Only down side is its 7days away so will not get the exhaust built while I'm on vacation

Also ordered one of these.
HE351CW Aluminum Solenoid Plug with 1/8 NPT Hole | DeeWorks.ca

Alamost ordered a spring gate for the He351cw but I'm going to wait and see what is involved with making the acctuator work on it.

Also got a friends just back from calibrating Snap-on torque wrench to re torque my head bolts and up the torque to 125ft/lbs.

 

[Wheelingnoob]

Today I started my week off to swap the engine in. And 15 min after starting my factory head bolt re torque I new it would not be done this week. I don't know why I did not do this sooner. But anyways when Ioosened and removed the first bolt to put new oil on things went sideways. Lots and lots of coolant in the bolt hole. Looked at all of them and they where all soaked and had sludge all over the bold from oil water mix.

So I did this..... I swear to God I'm living ground hog day.


Piss off is the head gasket was not blown it was just allowing some water to seep into the bolt holes.

Plus side is the cylinders in this engine are mint! Still very pronounced cross hatch and zero vertical wear lines.

Overloaded work bench now.



Had to make the engine look like it was still in one pice in case my wife walks by..... I told her no more head gaskets or opening engines.......opps



Head stripped and ready for decking Monday. I hope I can get it back Tuesday and get it beck together.


I plan to get ARP studs now and a new Cummins Head gasket.


I was super worried I was going to have this swap done too fast and easily.........

 

[Dirty Koala]

Well that blows...but at least you found this now where it's easier to work on out of the truck. Good move on the ARB studs and cummins gasket...that is what I am running.

 

[Mr Cimarron]

Man that sucks. But yeah at least you caught it now.

 

[Wheelingnoob]

Man that sucks. But yeah at least you caught it now.

I'm mainly upset I did not do this two months ago when I first contemplated it. Now it's just eating onto my time alloted for the swap to take place. When it's done though. I'll have peace in knowing it's done and ARP studded knowing the bottom end looks mint now as well. My one concern was rust in the cylinders having sat in a barn for 10 years, no concerns now tho she is mint.

 

[Dirty Koala]

If you think you may end up tuning up the power at some point, now would be the time to o-ring the head. I did mine so that I am future proofed.

 

[Wheelingnoob]

If you think you may end up tuning up the power at some point, now would be the time to o-ring the head. I did mine so that I am future proofed.

Yeah I'm not going that far, these engines make far more torque with a few tweaks than the Toyota axles can handle. New Cummins gaskets and ARP studs are all the insurance I need.

At this point with a He351cw, 4gsk and AFC live I can make far more power than my clutch will handle if I want. And I got the clutch I did as a fuse to keep me from going too far with power to save the axles.

 

[Dirty Koala]

I guess I am going to be the guinea pig to see how long the axles survive with too much power.

 

[Wheelingnoob]

I guess I am going to be the guinea pig to see how long the axles survive with too much power.

I have driven quite a few high power 12v and 24v P-pump Cummins and I have no intrest in having that kind of power in my lexus lol.

You certainly are going to be pushing the limits of the Toyota axles, it's going to come down to how you drive it.

 

[Dirty Koala]

Have you figured out the belt length that you plan to run?

Dustin sent this 69" belt, but it is a few inch's too short to get on, even with the tensioner fully out of the way.

I am thinking a 72-73" belt will work using the tensioner down on the passenger side.

 

[Wheelingnoob]

Have you figured out the belt length that you plan to run?

Dustin sent this 69" belt, but it is a few inch's too short to get on, even with the tensioner fully out of the way.
View attachment 1236107

I am thinking a 72-73" belt will work using the tensioner down on the passenger side.

No I have not even got to that point yet lol. I'm waiting to get the engine in the bay and see what I need to do with the alternator.

I got the head and rocker pedestals in the back of the car ready to drop off at the machine shop tomorrow AM. I'm also picking up the ARP's and gasket tomorrow before driving 4 hours to pick up the He351cw. Tuesday will be spent cleaning up the block deck and cutting the engine brakets off the frame. Then welding the stock Toyota ones back on. Good thing I marked where the stock ones go when I cut the old one off. I'm hopeful I can also get the head back Tuesday then start that reassembly process.

 

[Mr Cimarron]

Have you figured out the belt length that you plan to run?

Dustin sent this 69" belt, but it is a few inch's too short to get on, even with the tensioner fully out of the way.
View attachment 1236107

I am thinking a 72-73" belt will work using the tensioner down on the passenger side.

The belts are really tight when new and almost feels like it is a two man job to get one on. Then they stretch out where it will be easy to get on and off. I have even had to bump the starter to get one one before. FYI the Gatorback is now sold under a Continental brand label.

 

[Dirty Koala]

The belts are really tight when new and almost feels like it is a two man job to get one on. Then they stretch out where it will be easy to get on and off. I have even had to bump the starter to get one one before. FYI the Gatorback is now sold under a Continental brand label.

Yeah, I expect them to be tight, but the belt I have barely makes it 1/3 the way down the water pump pulley. I ordered up a 72.4" belt, will see if that works.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Jeremy, sucks that you have to pull the Cummins apart, but at least it's easy to do

Obviously you're going to use an OEM cummins gasket, so just get 'er done

 

[Wheelingnoob]

Picked up two He351cw turbo's last night one a rebuild able core and one a solid used unit.

Yesterday was a crazy day, at 9am I dropped off the rocker pedestals for machining for the ARP studs. Picked up the ARP's and dropped the head off for surfacing. By 12 the pedestals where done and so was the head. I headed out on a 8 hour round trip to get the turbo's so was not able to pick up the head. I also picked up a m12x1.75 bottoming tap to clean out the block threads for the studs.

This morning I will get the head and pick up the injectors from being tested, they look new when out of the head but wanted to test them while out.

Then it's re assembly, hope to have the engine all back together today and possibly started on the engine mounts.

 

[Dirty Koala]

Picked up two He351cw turbo's last night one a rebuild able core and one a solid used unit.

Yesterday was a crazy day, at 9am I dropped off the rocker pedestals for machining for the ARP studs. Picked up the ARP's and dropped the head off for surfacing. By 12 the pedestals where done and so was the head. I headed out on a 8 hour round trip to get the turbo's so was not able to pick up the head. I also picked up a m12x1.75 bottoming tap to clean out the block threads for the studs.

This morning I will get the head and pick up the injectors from being tested, they look new when out of the head but wanted to test them while out.

Then it's re assembly, hope to have the engine all back together today and possibly started on the engine mounts.

That's a very busy day dude! Sounds like you have a good machine shop that can turn around work fast. Are you planning on rebuilding both turbo's or using the good one and rebuilding the core when you have time?

The belts are really tight when new and almost feels like it is a two man job to get one on. Then they stretch out where it will be easy to get on and off. I have even had to bump the starter to get one one before. FYI the Gatorback is now sold under a Continental brand label.

Cimarron you were right, the belt that Dustin sent was the correct size, just tight. I let the alternator swing into the block and was able to get it on without drama...better send that new belt back.