Build Lexus LX450 Cummins 6bt/NV4500 swap

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Dirty Koala said:
That's a very busy day dude! Sounds like you have a good machine shop that can turn around work fast. Are you planning on rebuilding both turbo's or using the good one and rebuilding the core when you have time?
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Yes it was!

My plan is to run the good one for now and rebuild the other when time and budget permit.
 
Today I got my head back and started reassembling everything. Only took a few pictures as it's been covered a million times.

Block was cleaned with a soft roloc disk and a razor. I also bottom tapped all the head bolt holes and cleaned them out with brake clean. Then cleaned off all grease oil from the deck with brake cleaner.

ARP studs where installed as well.





Quite a bit more orange silicon around all the water and oil passenger with this new head gasket. This gasket is also 10 thou thicker to compensate for the 11thou removed from the head.

Last pic, things got a little rushed at the end of the day so I stoped taking pictures here.


Engine is all sealed up back to where it was last Saturday. All be it with a new headgasket and studs ;)

Injectors came back as new condition so no issues there as well.

Good day, bit frustrated I'm not further along but it's will get there eventually.

Tomorrow's plan is cut off the old mounts get the new ones on and fab and tack together the Cummins side mounts. Then maybe test fit the engine? I think that is being a bit optimistic but we'll see.
 
Nice progress, you move quick.

Today I attempted to swing the drivetrain in by myself, but it was to unwieldy to do without an extra set of hands...next saturday :/
 
ThreeEyedBandit said:
Looking good!!! Glad to see sounding positive and making good progress. Bet it's pretty nice being able to go to the local Cummins place and pick stuff up without waiting a week?

Looking forward to the next installment.
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Sure is, only down side is they have had 2 price increases this year. The engine paint that was $9 per can is now $21........

Headgasket was $250cnd it's a bit rough knowing the dollar has only changed 20% but they have changes there prices 50-100%.
 
Wheelingnoob said:
Sure is, only down side is they have had 2 price increases this year. The engine paint that was $9 per can is now $21........

Headgasket was $250cnd it's a bit rough knowing the dollar has only changed 20% but they have changes there prices 50-100%.
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Ouch!! That is rough. At least you will only be doing it once this time around. I miss my diesel, but should have done what you're doing with the 6BT. :beer::beer::beer:

So here I sit waiting for todays update! :zilla::zilla::steer::steer::beer::beer::popcorn::popcorn::popcorn:
 
Today I started by getting the Isuzu swap mounts cut off the frame and the stock ones back on. Fortunately I had landmarks that I left to get the stock ones back on in the same location.

Cut off and ready for welding.





Stock ones all re welded.




All of this is stuff no one else will need to worry about.

I also got the water adapters made to connect tge Toyota sensors to the Cummins engine. I took 1/2 npt plugs and drilled a 37/64ths holes in them then tapped to m16x1.5 this is foe the guage temp and AC override sensor. I located the AC one in the head just behind the fuel filter and the guage one in the rear heater fitting pictured before.

I also got the core He351cw torn down other than the big damn snap ring that killed my snap ring pliers. I'm going to use this one for mock up of the turbo exhaust and waste gate acctuator adapter.

Tomorrow first thing the 6bt gets swung into place. I got the engine side engine mounts all drilled and tacked together. Once the engine is suspended in the engine Bay I'll check to make sure they will work and position the engine where I want it then weld them up. Once that is done then modify the tunnel for the shifter. And make a transmission mount spacer.
 
I think you are about to overtake me tomorrow :) Nice beads!

Where are you planning on plumbing the heater supply line in?
 
Dirty Koala said:
I think you are about to overtake me tomorrow :) Nice beads!

Where are you planning on plumbing the heater supply line in?
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Your further along in other areas. I will have an engine in that needs a lot of other things done before it runs.

I have a 3/4" npt 90* fitting at the rear most water port of the head where the factory temp sensor is located. In the side of there is where I put the Gage temp sensor.

Mr Cimarron said:
Wish my welding looked as good as yours. Nice job.
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Thanks, trust me thoes welds are the best I have ever knocked out lol. I'm usualy a welder with a well used and abused grinder lol.
 
Ah ok, sounds like you are going the same route with the dual port 90.
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Dirty Koala said:
Ah ok, sounds like you are going the same route with the dual port 90.
View attachment 1237709
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Mine is identical, went to the local shop shop and got them then 30min with a drill and tap.

Cool water return from the heater is. Going into a port at the cool water inlet to the block.

I'm going to need to tackle my clutch pedal and look what I'm going to need to do to my auto brake pedal to make it fit, I see you just did yours today, is the arm of the brake pedal the same shape and position as the manual one?
 
Wheelingnoob said:
Mine is identical, $4 in parts from the local supply shop and 30min with a drill and tap.

Cool water return from the heater is. Going into a port at the cool water inlet to the block.

I'm going to need to tackle my clutch pedal and look what I'm going to need to do to my auto brake pedal to make it fit, I see you just did yours today, is the arm of the brake pedal the same shape and position as the manual one?
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Yes the pedal angle and shape looked the same.

I know you said the manual brake pedal was discontinued right before you ordered your parts, but if the pedal pad is still available...I'm assuming it is, then just trim down the pedal until the new pad fits on.

The hardest part about getting the clutch pedal in place, is crawling under the dash. There is a computer mounted between firewall and dash that restricts access to the upper left stud (on 80 master at least), pulling that computer out give you room to work.
 
Dirty Koala said:
Yes the pedal angle and shape looked the same.

I know you said the manual brake pedal was discontinued right before you ordered your parts, but if the pedal pad is still available...I'm assuming it is, then just trim down the pedal until the new pad fits on.

The hardest part about getting the clutch pedal in place, is crawling under the dash. There is a computer mounted between firewall and dash that restricts access to the upper left stud (on 80 master at least), pulling that computer out give you room to work.
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Perfect thank you!

I actually have a rubber pad already for it so I can trim to match.

I know it's an awkward area to work, over the rears I have been under there a few times.

Thanks for the information!
 
Looks real nice!! Please post pics of the engine side of the motor mounts.Seems all the 80 series cummins swap builds skipped the motor mount pics.I'm curious
 
Wheelingnoob said:
Whole thing minus the t case. Had my 73 year old dad to help lol.
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Nice, wish my dad lived on this side of the world to give me a hand. I had no one to help on Tuesday, when the hoist started to teeter-totter, I dropped it and figured I would wait for a set of extra hands to be available on Saturday.

Did you figure out the trans mount and cross member spacer deal, would love to see that setup.
 
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