Let's play a game......

[GLTHFJ60]

Alrighty, I've been thinking about it and I don't have the money to buy a full blown rebuild kit right now. My thinking, based on the conditions of the majority of the internals in my T-case, I can just buy the case gasket, the rear output housing gasket and the two thrust washers and I could put it all back together, right? That is after a thorough cleaning of course.

If the case comes with a lower gear ratio and I can really notice it after my 4.11's go in, then I'll rebuild that with the gears from this case. Make sense? Would that work?

 

[tonkota]

Your case and gear sets don't look bad at all. I'd buy the broken parts and put it back together. You might not get another 200k miles out of it though.

 

[kevinmrowland]

Alrighty, I've been thinking about it and I don't have the money to buy a full blown rebuild kit right now. My thinking, based on the conditions of the majority of the internals in my T-case, I can just buy the case gasket, the rear output housing gasket and the two thrust washers and I could put it all back together, right? That is after a thorough cleaning of course.

If the case comes with a lower gear ratio and I can really notice it after my 4.11's go in, then I'll rebuild that with the gears from this case. Make sense? Would that work?

+ You're going to need the two o-rings for the idler shaft (and another idler shaft). So that, with the parts listed, should get that back into runable shape.
To get everything all cleaned out you will need to pull the front output flange, the front bearing retainer, the 4wd collar and bearing. Be sure to clean out the little pilot bearing in the front of the hi-low assembly.
But you knew that already.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

+ You're going to need the two o-rings for the idler shaft (and another idler shaft). So that, with the parts listed, should get that back into runable shape.
To get everything all cleaned out you will need to pull the front output flange, the front bearing retainer, the 4wd collar and bearing. Be sure to clean out the little pilot bearing in the front of the hi-low assembly.
But you knew that already.

Right. Thanks for reminding me.

So parts list:
2 thrust washers
3 gaskets - main case gasket as well as front and rear bearing retainer gaskets
1 idler shaft
2 o-rings for idler shaft
1 retention bolt + tab

I'm assuming that the gaskets and such would be cheap at the dealer, but do you know about the idler shaft? Should I buy that at the dealer or get a used one? I would wager used one, but I don't know for sure.

As for cleaning, I was thinking get a couple of cans of carb + choke cleaner and spray everything down and wipe everything off with a rag or two, or three. After that, fill with fluid, run for a month then change. Logical?

 

[tonkota]

+ You're going to need the two o-rings for the idler shaft (and another idler shaft). So that, with the parts listed, should get that back into runable shape.
To get everything all cleaned out you will need to pull the front output flange, the front bearing retainer, the 4wd collar and bearing. Be sure to clean out the little pilot bearing in the front of the hi-low assembly.
But you knew that already.

I can't believe you aren't sharing this Kevin!

http://archtimb.com/PDF/Transfer.PDF
http://archtimb.com/transfer.html
http://www.steelnthings.com/wagontech/tf/mcnamara.html I know this doesn't apply, but the steps are the same.


Thanks to Ken F. for putting this list together (prices will vary).


Gaskets:
36164-60040 $ 3.32 Transfer shift mechanism
36416-36010 $ 1.66 Transfer diaphragm housing
36144-60020 $ 2.31 PTO cover
36143-60020 $ 8.60 Main case gasket (very important)
36152-60030 $ 2.57 Rear output shaft housing
36142-60030 $ 4.40 Tranny output shaft cover
36143-60040 $ 8.35 Transfer case front @ tranny
90430-18008 $ 1.06 Drain/fill plugs (need 2)

O-rings:
90301-34005 $ 1.89 Tranny output shaft
90301-34004 $ 1.66 Idler shaft ends (need 2)

Seals:
90316-48003 $ 8.69 Tranny/transfer separator
90311-48009 $ 9.20 Output flange, front
90311-48010 $ 7.43 Output flange, rear

Nuts:
90179-22005 $ 3.94 Output flange stake nuts (need 2)
90179-26004 $ 2.74 Tranny output shaft stake nut

Bearings:
90363-35013 $27.84 Tranny output shaft (rear)
90364-38012 $31.92 Idler shaft roller (need 2)
90363-35013 $27.84 Front output shaft (front)
90366-35011 $46.16 Main output shaft (front)
90366-35054 $50.39 Main output shaft (rear)
90364-40001 $53.30 Roller for output gear (need 2)
90364-17010 $13.69 Small pilot brg for front of output shaft

Other:
36222-60020 $17.98 Idler shaft thrust washer (need 2)
36225-60050 $45.00 Idler shaft (price from SOR web site)

 

[lehiguy]

The only gasket I found to be indispensable is the cork job on the upper bearing cover or input shaft cover, I dodn't know what Toyota calls it. The others I always replaced with RTV. No leaks!

 

[kevinmrowland]

3 gaskets - main case gasket as well as front and rear bearing retainer gaskets

The front bearing retainer ring is in the main case, there is no gasket. The only gasket up front on yours is the oil seal and you should be able to reuse that.
And I have never seen a used idler shaft that did not have a bunch of bearing chatter wear on it, that being said I doubt it is worth it to buy a new one for a temp fix.

[Disclaimer: this is an on-the-cheap, case sensitive repair, not a rebuild, I do not advocate doing this in normal situations. ]

I can't believe you aren't sharing this Kevin!
-snip-
Thanks to Ken F. for putting this list together (prices will vary).

I did not want to confuse the situation A Ron!
A lot of those parts are 62 specific, the cases and many of the gears, seals and parts change between the 60 & 62.
Johnny doesn't even have the same size idler shaft as the 62 case.

P.S. And I am pretty sure my Dad put that list together? Not Ken. No offense to Ken for all the other great lists he has put together though.

lehiguy The others I always replaced with RTV. No leaks!

Not really a good idea, you could use RTV for the PTO cover and the rear transmission output bearing seal, but the other gaskets are in tolerance sensitive locations, you could use RTV on the rear output, but you would need to make sure your bearing pre-load was still correct and if you used RTV on the case it would throw off not only the rear output pre-load but the thrust washer clearance as well.
The OE gaskets are high quality and seal very well, I recommend sticking with them.

 

[tonkota]

I did not want to confuse the situation A Ron!
A lot of those parts are 62 specific, the cases and many of the gears, seals and parts change between the 60 & 62.
Johnny doesn't even have the same size idler shaft as the 62 case.

P.S. And I am pretty sure my Dad put that list together? Not Ken. No offense to Ken for all the other great lists he has put together though.

The one list is from your dad, the other is posted by Ken at the 3FE site, I just cut and pasted. 62 specific huh. Sorry for the confusion then.

What are the differences (besides the 4wd actuation)? School me.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

I know that there are differences between the 62 case and the 60 case, but the pictures definitely help, especially the pics that Mitch put up showing the order that some of the individual parts go together.

Anyway, could I just re-use my old idler shaft? It's got a couple of dings in it, but it's far from being un-usable I bet. I could probably just hit it with some 200 grit sandpaper and call it a day.

 

[kevinmrowland]

The one list is from your dad, the other is posted by Ken at the 3FE site, I just cut and pasted. 62 specific huh. Sorry for the confusion then.

What are the differences (besides the 4wd actuation)? School me.

Ah, cool, it's all great info and I was just giving you a hard time.

I doubt my memory would be adequate to properly "school" you on the differences, but in general an FJ62 transfer case has the same general construction and mechanisms as the 60s but almost all of the components are different.
For starters, almost all the parts on the list you pasted are 62 specific since they relate to the interior components of the 62.
So lets follow the power through the case:
First off, the gearing is higher on the 62 case, that changes all the gear sizes, tooth counts and ratios.
The input gear has an o ring grove rather than a collar.
Rather than a pto gear, the 62s have a spacer (or is that the other way around? 60s have the spacer and the 62 have the gear? I think that varied with years)
The idler shaft on a 62 case is some 15 or 20mm larger than the 60, that changes the shaft, the gears, the bearings, the o-rings, the thrust washers and the front and back case.
The hi-low assembly works the same way, but has needle bearings rather than bushings. so that changes the shaft size and obviously the bearings.
The rear output collar is different, the speedo gear, spacer and washer are different sizes to account for the different gearing in the 62 axles and case.
The speedo assembly and the associated o-ring is a different size.
The output flanges are a different pattern form the earlier 60s (like Johnny's).
Up front you mention the vacuum shifter, which actually does not change as many parts as you might think, there are some extra holes in the case, but the engagement shaft is actually the same, just on the 60 there are not threaded holes for the diaphragm housing to bolt to and the shaft has an oil seal and dust boot on it, rather than the housing like the 62.
There are some other minor differences in the sensors and the cases, small parts, but that pretty sums up what I can remember off the top of my head.

 

[kevinmrowland]

I know that there are differences between the 62 case and the 60 case, but the pictures definitely help, especially the pics that Mitch put up showing the order that some of the individual parts go together.

Anyway, could I just re-use my old idler shaft? It's got a couple of dings in it, but it's far from being un-usable I bet. I could probably just hit it with some 200 grit sandpaper and call it a day.

200? No. 600, maybe. Can't tell without seeing the damage.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

200? No. 600, maybe. Can't tell without seeing the damage.

I was just looking at it again, and it really doesn't look too bad. Most of the damage is cosmetic and I can barely feel it with my finger. There is one gash that I can feel pretty easily, but I don't think it's completely destroyed. On top of that, this only needs to work till I put the new tranny + tcase in, so just the winter.

 

[woytovich]

Sears sale paper today: 1/2" impact air gun 50% off... $19.99
Can't beat that Johnny!

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Damn, I wish I had $20. This t-case problem happened at the worst time ever. I bought a set of rear springs for my truck then helped buy the H55 from AU, then my t-case blows up. Now I have no money to buy gaskets, so I'll have to wait till after turkey day to put it back together.

 

[Dirtgypsy]

Are you hurting to get this back on the road? If so I may have the gaskets you need I can double check. Also I know some do like Spector but I have bought 2 used parts from these guys including a shift arm and gears and both were in superb shape. Just be pleasant with the salesman and ask them to please check for obtuse wear and tear.

Here is an idler shaft for you for $10:

Specter Off-Road-Land Cruiser Parts - Search On-064-32

Clint

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Excellent!! I didn't know that SOR sold used parts. That is awesome.

I can get almost everything there except the retention bolt, which they say is discontinued, and the thrust washers for the idler gears, which $OR charges $20 a piece for. $20 a piece for thrust washers?!?

I gotta check now to see if my truck was produced before or after 4/86. I'm pretty sure it is a November baby, but I gotta check.

Cart

T-Case Internal Page

Are you hurting to get this back on the road? If so I may have the gaskets you need I can double check. Also I know some do like Spector but I have bought 2 used parts from these guys including a shift arm and gears and both were in superb shape. Just be pleasant with the salesman and ask them to please check for obtuse wear and tear.

Here is an idler shaft for you for $10:

Specter Off-Road-Land Cruiser Parts - Search On-064-32

Clint

 

[woytovich]

Johnny... as I said earlier in this thread: I HAVE THESE PARTS I just pulled out while doing my own split TC rebuild. YOU CAN HAVE them for the shipping...

Email me and let me know.

 

[woytovich]

The retention bolt is available from Toyota... I JUST got a new one (to replace the bolt and piece of scrap metal put there by the PO)

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Johnny... as I said earlier in this thread: I HAVE THESE PARTS I just pulled out while doing my own split TC rebuild. YOU CAN HAVE them for the shipping...

Email me and let me know.

PM on it's way.

The retention bolt is available from Toyota... I JUST got a new one (to replace the bolt and piece of scrap metal put there by the PO)

Did you check because of this thread or did you find it a while ago?

BTW, my rig is indeed an 11/86, so I have the 38MM idler shaft.

 

[woytovich]

Mine's a 34mm.... sorry... I just bought the bolt and little hold-down flange from my dealer 2 months ago...