Let's play a game......

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Uh, wow Johnny.
I don't look in on Mud for weeks and this is what greats me what I come back? :p

DO NOT DRIVE IT ANYWHERE.

The rebuild is easy, after you find out how many parts you broke.
The idler shaft does not ride on any bearings, it is not a spinning part, but ALL the movement in the transfer case is "transfered" across it.
You have no need of a Macnamara gear, they are for auto tranys with worn output splines.
Let me know what you end up needing.

Lol, kevin I gotta tell you thanksgiving is good to my rig. Last thanksgiving I broke my rig's smog pump. Anyway, after I pull it apart, I'm sure I'll be calling you. Thanks for being there for me buddy!!
 
There's just NO WAY the shaft came out and everything is still OK in there. Steel gear spining inside an aluminum case = fxxxage.

I've got a used FJ62 (vac assist) t-case, all parts there, but in a bucket. Cheap. PM me if interested.
 
There's just NO WAY the shaft came out and everything is still OK in there. Steel gear spining inside an aluminum case = fxxxage.

New signature right there.

I can't wait to pull it apart. I'm going to take pictures, but it probably won't happen till tomorrow.
 
Alrighty, started taking it apart. It's pretty easy, but I must admit it's harder getting under my rig ( stock height ) versus the last time I was under a rig with Kevin rebuilding his front axle.

Anyway, took off the driveshafts, sensors, covers, etc. and realized that I do not have the right sockets to take off either the input shaft nut or the companion flange nuts. What size are they?? How do you get the staked portion of each nut out?? I couldn't get at it with a screwdriver.

Other than not having those sockets, the only other problem I had was I couldn't figure out how to get the speedo sensor out of the rear output shaft bearing retainer. Any tips?

Here is a pic of the two nuts I need the size for and after that some pics of the metal shavings......
t-case dissassembly.webp
 
More....As you can see there are tons of metal flakes but the gears seem to be fine!
P1010052-forum.webp
P1010053-forum.webp
P1010056forum.webp
 
I'm not sure if I remember right, but I think the nuts are 36 & 32mm, not sure on the sizes, I just know I have them.
That SST is just a bar with two holes in it, I have a homemade one here, a prybar works fine as well.
You have the compressor, but do you have an impact wrench?
Makes zipping those off really easy.
With the speedo, after the clip is off just put a screw drive in the slot and pry up, there is an O ring in there that gets hard over time.
 
wow....metal shavings....it will be interesting to see if they are from the case or the gears....i hope the gears floating and wobbeling did not grind away at the case housing..... i would expect with gear grinding youd have some broken or chewed up teeth....
 
Wow

That is awesome, new item for the to do list:: check that nut on the transfer on BT-60 will be easy while still up on the jacks. That would be my luck spend two years rebuilding a rig and then throw out the idle shaft from the transfer. So check again tomorrow. Good luck with the rebuild and keep up the pic's. Doc
 
Maybe you could tell with a magnet if they are flakes from the gears or aluminum from the case?
 
Maybe you could tell with a magnet if they are flakes from the gears or aluminum from the case?

Not that really concerned about it. When I pull it apart, I'll know right away what it was that produced the shavings.

On to buy the 32 and 36 mm sockets!
 
I'm not sure if I remember right, but I think the nuts are 36 & 32mm, not sure on the sizes, I just know I have them.
That SST is just a bar with two holes in it, I have a homemade one here, a prybar works fine as well.
You have the compressor, but do you have an impact wrench?
Makes zipping those off really easy.
With the speedo, after the clip is off just put a screw drive in the slot and pry up, there is an O ring in there that gets hard over time.

Kevin, went out to get those sockets and found them for 7.50 a piece :eek::eek:!!! Bought them anyway, but DAMN!!

Anyway, don't have an impact wrench yet. I was going to go get one relatively soon so I could swap out my rear axle more easily, but instead got an H55+split case ordered from AU, and bought new rear springs. I'm so sick of the front being higher than the rear so they'll go on with the new axle. You know how it goes, "while I'm in there".....

For those two nuts, they are staked and I can't figure out how to pry the staked part away from the shaft. I can't get a screwdriver in there because of how far in they are punched, so can I just load the nut up with torque to pop them out or can I use something else like an icepick?
 
$7.50 is a steal if they are decent ones, I sure hope you confirmed the sizes before spending the money though. :D
A little metric 6" ruler is really handy.....
And not that I recommend shopping there on a regular basis, for limited use stuff like those sockets, Harbor Freight sells a set of large metrics for $40, sometimes on sale for $20. They work great and range from the 20mms up into the 40mms.

For the stakes you just take an old screw driver or chisel and grind it to fit the slot. With an impact wrench you can also just spin them right off and the stake moves itself out of the way. But don't try that with steady torque.
Remember, impact is key, way more force that way and you don't snap things.
 
You know me, I just eyeballed it and called it a day. If you have those two sizes in your tool kit then there is definitely a time somewhere down the road where I'll need them, even if they aren't for this application. They're craftsman sockets, so I guess it was a good deal!

I do remember that steady torque screws things up, so I was planning on using my socket with a breaker bar on it and hammering it to get the desired effect. I'm not sure how well that will work though because my truck is so low to the damn ground. NOTHING like working under your truck. I have a hose and everything ready to go for my compressor, so should I just buy a cheap one like this and have it for a while? I'm REALLY strapped for $$ right now, so I can't pony up for a good craftsman one.

Impact wrench 1

or

Impact wrench 2

or

Impact wrench 3

I'm thinking I'll call the local Harbor Freight and ask them if they have the first one in stock. It looks like a good, cheap wrench and it will help me get this job, and many others, done infinitely faster.
 
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Air is critical. Impact is WAY better than trying to do this stuff by hand. With an impact you can take off the nut holding a pulley without worrying much about the pulley spinning... or, in this case, the nuts on the ends of the shafts...
 
Air is critical. Impact is WAY better than trying to do this stuff by hand. With an impact you can take off the nut holding a pulley without worrying much about the pulley spinning... or, in this case, the nuts on the ends of the shafts...

I guess I gotta get my hands on one then. Which one of the above should I get? The dual hammer model?
 
Go for wrench #1 -- I used one for years and it was fine. Eventually upgraded to an IR super duty 1/2", but the HF stuff is fine for backyard wrenching. Had to use a 3/4" CP for the crank pulley, though. Whatever you buy, just keep it oiled every time you use it.
 
Go for wrench #1 -- I used one for years and it was fine. Eventually upgraded to an IR super duty 1/2", but the HF stuff is fine for backyard wrenching. Had to use a 3/4" CP for the crank pulley, though. Whatever you buy, just keep it oiled every time you use it.

Are there instructions for oiling or do you know where and how to oil it?
 
Simple -- if you don't have an in-line oiler on your compressed air, just two drops in the air inlet - at the bottom of the pistol grip, each time you use it. The gun should come with a small bottle of oil, if not, just buy the air tool oil from HF. There will also be instructions with the gun how to maintain it.
 

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