Builds Let's not call it a restoration... Chopped down FJ40 to 45ish on an FZJ80 chassis BUILD! (1 Viewer)

[HandForged]

Do the hub caps snap on the fj cruiser rims?

They will when I make a set of clips to fit to the wheels. I worked on the jig a little today. I already have the correct spring steel for them just need to get the angles correct and I can make a bunch of them.

 

[HandForged]

Put the pillow block on the firewall, what a difference in the strength! NO, I repeat, ZERO movement in the column now. I did drill the holes a little too large for this mock up but I'll fix it when I make the 1/8" plate cover for the steering column hole. I'll drill them "Correctly" this time so It doesn't tighten up with a little angle to it. Best 15.00 I have spent thus far. Steering has no flex or deflection in the column at all. I need to raise it about 1.5" as well. This was just the first test run to make sure it would rotate well.

 

[G-Cat]

Those wheels (16 and 17”) are tough to find in Georgia and expensive when I do find them.

That said...like the idea. Is it 6 clips per wheel...so ball-park $48 per wheel for clips?

 

[HandForged]

Those wheels (16 and 17”) are tough to find in Georgia and expensive when I do find them.

That said...like the idea. Is it 6 clips per wheel...so ball-park $48 per wheel for clips?

Yeah that is what I'm thinking. I was thinking this was the easiest of them to find. The 16x7's are cheap and plentiful in most salvage yards that have imports. All of the ones I got are from factory spares I think. I was thinking of getting a stash of them and installing the clips for folks that didn't want to mess with it. Pm me if you're interested, I have a supply of them.

 

[G-Cat]

Interested by wife just stopped working. I’ll root for you from the cheap seats!

 

[47coeman]

Do the hub caps snap on the fj cruiser rims?

Started doing a little bit of body work in the bed panels today. Behind the rear wheels something bounced around in the bed pushing the fenders out. On top of that the lower portion below the floor was bent in the opposite direction. Needless to say it will take some time to shrink and hammer dolly both of these panels. I did make some measurable progress today in between stitching the frame structure in the back of the tub, like I said this is the tedious work and you have to go slow to go fast. First shot is ox acceteline torch marks heat small areas quench and then hammer dolly. The second Is a partially worked, looking better after some work to it. Not done by any means but a good start to completion. Plenty of metal to work with which is great.

 

[HandForged]

Started doing a little bit of body work in the bed panels today. Behind the rear wheels something bounced around in the bed pushing the fenders out. On top of that the lower portion below the floor was bent in the opposite direction. Needless to say it will take some time to shrink and hammer dolly both of these panels. I did make some measurable progress today in between stitching the frame structure in the back of the tub, like I said this is the tedious work and you have to go slow to go fast. First shot is ox acceteline torch marks heat small areas quench and then hammer dolly. The second Is a partially worked, looking better after some work to it. Not done by any means but a good start to completion. Plenty of metal to work with which is great.View attachment 2189291View attachment 2189292

did you mean to post this in my thread? LOL

 

[47coeman]

did you mean to post this in my thread? LOL

I guess I was spaced out not paying attention anyhow now I know you saw it...

 

[HandForged]

I guess I was spaced out not paying attention anyhow now I know you saw it...

now that I HAVE seen it, LOL, have you tried the technique of heating the dent with a torch and cooling it with a wet rag? For small dents and ticks it works very well. Heat until it has a mild yellow color then quench it quickly with a wet rag. It will contract the steel quickly and pull the dent out. Saves a LOT of hammer dolly time but it takes an eye to develop or you'll make a dent instead of a pop.

 

[47coeman]

now that I HAVE seen it, LOL, have you tried the technique of heating the dent with a torch and cooling it with a wet rag? For small dents and ticks it works very well. Heat until it has a mild yellow color then quench it quickly with a wet rag. It will contract the steel quickly and pull the dent out. Saves a LOT of hammer dolly time but it takes an eye to develop or you'll make a dent instead of a pop.

Ya that is what I did I guess I didn’t explain myself clear Many dents and waves from many years of abuse.

 

[HandForged]

Ya that is what I did I guess I didn’t explain myself thought. Many dents and waves from many years of abuse.

Gotcha! I thought you were just pecking them out with a hammer and dolly.

 

[HandForged]

Ya that is what I did I guess I didn’t explain myself clear Many dents and waves from many years of abuse.

You're going to a LOT more trouble than I will, I am looking for "Not rusted anymore" more than finished pretty. Realistically I will put dents right back in it the first season I use mine so taking them out now seems like insanity. Although the body panels on mine are pretty straight already.

 

[HandForged]

not much done on the truck the last few days. I have been working on those dang hub cap clips but I was able to get the hood fitted back to the truck. Mock up of course but I wanted to check my lines before starting on the front cross member. I am glad I did! I forgot about the 1/2" space between the tub and the apron that would normally be a gasket. So my hood is 1/2" over the Bib in the front. Guess I'll be tearing that apart again to get that gap correct before moving on. Otherwise it looks good. Almost to the point that I can take the tub and panels back off and finish welding out the tub.

 

[HandForged]

Steering is finally buttoned up. Everything that was once little 6mm bolts and sheet metal is now 1/8" plate and 10mm grade 8 hardware. Steering angle corrected, pillow block installed into the firewall and shaft greased for temporary use. I know this doesn't seem like much but it has taken a good bit of thinking and engineering. The end result is very nice and has less play in it than the stock 80 had that it came out of. Tilt now put the wheel a little more flat and tilted up it will likely be close to the windshield, which is what I was shooting for. Dash structure was beefed up and tack welded into place. I was also able to weld in a blind nut and collar into the column holes to make steering column removal simple. Clears the brake pedal with about 1/2" with no wiggle or contact. No idea why I have not done this to other trucks in the past but it makes a HUGE difference. I will most likely put a gasket behind this when I tear it all back down for final fitting after the bedliner and everything goes in. The one thing I hate is cold air leaking in. Also in an attempt to quiet the truck down. I am hoping for a nice quiet interior after this truck is on the road. I know people hate carpet but after it is primed out and bed liner shot in I will cover everything with sound deadening mat and then put a carpet kit in with a nice thick backer. Comfort gentleman....I'm all about my comfort. The outside of the truck will likely get beat up over time but there's no reason I can't make the inside as nice as possible.

 

[2fpower]

Do you have a part number on that pillow block? I see the casting number on it, but that appears to just be for the outer housing.

 

[HandForged]

Do you have a part number on that pillow block? I see the casting number on it, but that appears to just be for the outer housing.

I am sure i have the packages they came in. It's just a pillow block with a swivel bearing in it. 1" diameter through hole.

 

[HandForged]

Do you have a part number on that pillow block? I see the casting number on it, but that appears to just be for the outer housing.

Tru-Pitch FS205 is the block and HC205-16 is the bearing with collar. They were seperate, I picked them up at the local farm supply.

 

[HandForged]

Getting some sheet metal work done today. Closing up the back of the cab and starting on the floor in the rear section. I have to tell you what a pain it is installing, tacking and welding in a large straight flat panel. Where the weld lines are you always end up with flex that has to be pecked out with a hammer. Then deal with the peck marks with a hammer and dolly. Did I mention I really HATE body work? Anyway, the panel that spans the rear where the tailgate once was is in, started filling the little holes in the tub as well. Shot the rear with self etching primer so that I can see the little pecks I put into it. Structure on the inside is 1" square tubing. I put one piece in to hold the line true and realized one of my corners was tweaked!!! I knew that it has some damage in that spot but it's about 3/8" out of alignment. Everything else is straight so I'll likely take the porta-power and get back into shape but it will take some body filler when it's done and I hate that stuff. I spent a lot of time on the seams connecting the panel to fill with weld and grind it flat. It really kills me to create nice flat seams and then find a spot that I will have no choice but to use filler.

 

[HandForged]

Next step is to get the floor cut and tacked in. I'll have to add some structure to the bottom but adding the 2" square tubing across the tub as a building block was a good idea. I am using 1/8" sheet for all of this. This will let me jump forward a little and be able to remove the tub in one complete unit. Making it easier to get some of the body work done without it sitting on the frame.

 

[rustED71]

It's looking good, what is your cab length, stock or did you stretch it a little for legroom? I went back thru your thread but couldn't find where you mentioned the cab length. I have a rusted spare tub that would make a good candidate and have been thinking of doing a 40 to 45/45.5-ish conversion...been following your build and Skips for inspiration!