A10Driver
SILVER Star
Great idea, but check your seat fitment before welding all the way up. Your seats might not recline very far as is. Not sure how tall u are
Builds Let's not call it a restoration... Chopped down FJ40 to 45ish on an FZJ80 chassis BUILD! (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter HandForged
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HandForged
Built Not Bought!
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- #62
I did a simple test fit with a 80 series seat that I had handy, the box behind the seat doesn't obstruct at all. The fuel tank I am contemplating wouldn't be inside the cab, it would be below those boxes if that makes sense. level with the floor of the cab in the extended portion. it would essentially become the lower portion of the rear of the tub.
HandForged
Built Not Bought!
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- #63
Got all of the body mounts figured out last night and realized that I am getting to the point that I need to pull the tub back off and start the actual body work. That led me to start thinking about the paint color. I have the 383 green in Carc here, a gallon and a portion which is more than enough BUT, having restored military vehicles for quite some time I wonder if I wouldn't like to paint it another color. I really like the look of a few guys who have used the "cement gray" and a few other colors that have a little more shall we say class to them? I don't like bright colors but with all the body work I have to do on this truck I wonder if it doesn't deserve a better paint job. The carc green will not shine and I am not aware of a top coat that can be sprayed on top of it. It goes on with an almost gravelly finish and although tough as hell it isn't much to look at. I'll go ahead and shoot the epoxy primer on the entire body obviously, to seal everything up, which is yellow. Now that doesn't really matter with the final finish.
47coeman
Love those 45's
Sounds good and we’ll thought out. Any thoughts on your fuel mileage, o would guess pushing the barn door truck you will be looking at maybe mid 20’s. Compared to the stock 6 of maybe 12 quite a difference. I am hopeful in my rig with the Mercedes 606 if I stay out of it maybe mid 20’s also won’t really know till it gets going.
HandForged
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- #65
The engine in the passat before removing it was getting 34-36. Now that is in a car that weighs roughly 3,000 pounds. Now then some recent builds with this engine (all things considered equal) were in the area of 3500-3800 pounds, so I am optimistic of keeping roughly 30. I think at the lowest, high 20's. So far I don't have any long term data from anyone running this setup and calculating mileage. I am trying my very best to keep things light. Rather as light as they can be.
47coeman
Love those 45's
I was being conservative but that may be a obtainable for sure. If you chip the pump and bigger injectors for over 200 hp we will just have to wait and see. I have friends with 1z motors getting way over 40 with there set up’s in vw’s Tuning is key and of course the way you drive them. It is a fun little motor and very responsive, it will push the ol 45 nicely.
HandForged
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- #67
I'm a master diesel tech. I have done away with all the electronics on this one altogether. Full mechanical landrover injector pump with a 13mm plate and cam, 20mm shaft...full blueprint and build. built injectors and about everything you can do to one. This engine makes about 220hp as it is. When I get back around to engine work and tuning I will try to push it closer to 300.
47coeman
Love those 45's
Nice nice it is amazing how the Diesel engine can produce that kind of HP and still get the fuel mileage they do. That little unite will push your rig along nicely. BTW what turbo are you going to use.
HandForged
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- #69
Not sure where I will end up. I am running a TD04 now but it isn't very efficient with this combo. I am giving thought to a small compound setup with the stock garret and something larger.
47coeman
Love those 45's
You will have plenty of room and I have always liked the double set up, instant spool plus unlimited options for power. You thinking about a girdle for your unit might be a good idea pushing out that much power power.
HandForged
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- #71
My built engine already has a studded head and a main girdle in it. H beam rods, pistons....the whole shebang. it is build as far as you can go with one and detuned a good bit.
47coeman
Love those 45's
It sounds like it has all the bells and whistles. I have rode in the sedans with big parts installed l, what a ride they created. Going to be a real fun 4x4 for sure.
HandForged
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- #73
I really hope so, I had many goals in mind when I started this project and they have gotten skewed along the way so far but the one thing I was steadfast on was proving that not only were these little motors viable for larger offroad trucks but more than efficient for the task. I think too many people get in their head that bigger is better, "I need 500 hp or nothing". I think it's ridiculous. Add to that the significant weight reduction of this thing....it only weighs 350 pounds. The 1fzfe that I removed weighed over twice that, almost 3 times more. The thing that people forget is weight reduction is as good or better than horsepower. 500 hp in a 5k pound truck is adequate but 300 hp in a 3500 pound truck is a hell of a lot of fun. Completed the way that I want this little 4 banger will make more horsepower than a 350, more torque, weigh 1/2 or less and get 5 times the fuel mileage.
HandForged
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- #74
Got a care package in the mail today! Bib, grille, bezel and headlight buckets! The pieces are starting to fall together. These are going to look good with the Military issue JW speaker headlights in them... UH-HUH!
What will EGT and oil temps looks like on this engine with a load on it? Seems it would get hot making that much power in a heavier rig. At the same time, I’m curious because I have an 02’ beetle I commute in and I’m just waiting for an excuse to yank the engine. Lol
HandForged
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- #76
well hypothetically (and that is all I have at this point) EGT's should be fine. I will be running a meth inj system as well as an intercooler that is 5 times larger and more efficient than stock. Engine and oil temps, I have no idea. Consider this, the estimated weight is between 35-3800 pounds. The passat that the engine was removed from comes in at right at 3,000. An 800 pound difference in rolling weight is not a large number. Add the 4 passengers versus 2 for my truck and it may all balance out.
HandForged
Built Not Bought!
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- #78
HandForged
Built Not Bought!
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- #79
…..and YES, I went out and popped one of those JW speaker headlights into that sexy new bib, and it was awesome.
HandForged
Built Not Bought!
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- #80
Front end mock up:
So today I felt like it was a good time to mock up the front clip to get some dimensions on the bridge that needs to be fabricated to tie the front frame cross member to the Bib hinge. I knew it would need a stand off there and although I have seen some guys just weld a block there, that isn't really my style. This bridge will also support the radiator mounts and intercooler. So it needs to be sturdy and integral.
What I am planning is to take some 3/8 plate and brake it into a wide channel essentially. This will give me the ability to set the bib hinge right on top, tie the frame rails together and give it all a finished look. It will also give a nice place to tie in the Nose guard I have yet to bend up and a shorter stinger, just to keep anything off of the radiator. All of that will be within the dimensions of the frame rails. The goal is to keep the front clean and uncluttered, without adding any additional length or weight. Now I what I am planning is relatively heavy but I feel like it's a necessary evil for basic protection.
So today I felt like it was a good time to mock up the front clip to get some dimensions on the bridge that needs to be fabricated to tie the front frame cross member to the Bib hinge. I knew it would need a stand off there and although I have seen some guys just weld a block there, that isn't really my style. This bridge will also support the radiator mounts and intercooler. So it needs to be sturdy and integral.
What I am planning is to take some 3/8 plate and brake it into a wide channel essentially. This will give me the ability to set the bib hinge right on top, tie the frame rails together and give it all a finished look. It will also give a nice place to tie in the Nose guard I have yet to bend up and a shorter stinger, just to keep anything off of the radiator. All of that will be within the dimensions of the frame rails. The goal is to keep the front clean and uncluttered, without adding any additional length or weight. Now I what I am planning is relatively heavy but I feel like it's a necessary evil for basic protection.
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