Builds Let's not call it a restoration... Chopped down FJ40 to 45ish on an FZJ80 chassis BUILD! (4 Viewers)

[HandForged]

The interface between the tub and my slider/ body mounts has difference in elevation of about 3". Now I did that to make things easier on the fabrication so that the body mounts simply sit flat with a slight elevation above the frame for flex. I knew that I would need some sort of block there as the factory body mounts from the 80 ( that I am using) aren't tall enough. I kicked around the idea of just welding another spacer up or possibly to the tub but that just didn't seem like the proper thing to do. In situations like this I prefer to think on it a while before making anything. In this case I thought, what would any self respecting machinist do? So I rummaged around in my shop and found some large pieces of UHMW polymer. Chunked a piece off with the band saw and turned it down in the lathe. Took maybe 10 minutes. Now I have perfect body mount. Round, stronger material than any body lift block and it was FREE... I make a 2.5" rod about 14" long. Now I can part off any size that I need until it sits perfectly.... Pictures tomorrow when I have a couple of them in place.

 

[47coeman]

I have done the same thing with other projects in the past, yes it works well, in fact I am getting ready to do the same thing on my 35.
Happy New Year

 

[HandForged]

Body mounts continued:

Last night I made up a few UHMW poly body mounts, I made a length of it 2.5" in diameter so that I can part off the length that I need. Today I cut off two 2.5" cylinders to use for the front body mounts. I used the top rubber portion of the 80 body mounts. To make this work out, I drilled all of the factory holes to 1/2". The counterbored the floor board with a 3/4" hole saw. This allows access to the support member underneath. I did the same with the new body support on the frame. For the short term I used 1/2" all thread to pull everything together. They will all be replaced with Grade 8 bolts.

The recessed holes solve a few problems. First off body bolts underneath take beating on rocks and things. The nuts get crunched and threads beat up so this keeps them away from any damage. Doing the same thing with the tub makes it so that they can be removed if something seized up. IE get a wrench or impact on it. Top and bottom will get a simple rubber body plug to cover the hole.

 

[HandForged]

With the tub finally located on the chassis I was able to start taking measurements and making sure that everything was where I had intended it to be. The firewall is a hair closer than I thought BUT there's still a ton of room to operate back there so I left it alone. Side to side is dead nut. Took a few pictures of how the tub looks now in it's permenant home, not just guess work. The shifter for the R150 ends up a little far back into the cab but I already planned for that. This will give me a LOT of room to mount a console from the dash to the floor pan up front for a few added extras. Then fabricate a lower cover for the rear portion. The shifter should end up just forward of the seat, no matter to me as i'll make a custom shifter after the cage and seats are installed. Also took a couple of the tub to rock slider. I wanted a 3/4" gap between the body and the slider. When I really crank the mounts down I should end up with 1/2" there. This is just a place to wash out any dirt or mud that wants to get trapped up in there. One gratuitous shot from down low, she's starting to look like something. It's still really tall...HA! Room for 38's? I think so.

 

[HandForged]

Last thing I needed to do before messing with the steering was mount the Master cylinder and booster. I am using the FZJ80 setup to match the brakes already on the chassis. Pretty much a straight forward thing honestly. Enlarged the centerbore to 2.5", measured and dilled the holes for the four studs. All went in easily, with the exception of the bottom passenger side stud landed just under a structural member. I nipped the corner off of it and tightened the bolt. Photos show the rod of the master cylinder and where it fell in relation to the stock location. Pedal was removed, new hole drilled and reinstalled. Piece of cake.

Now I can get a real idea of clearances for the steering shaft. Looks like it isn't going to be much of an issue but I wanted to be safe than sorry.

One thing I noticed is that with the booster there, the clutch master will need to be relocated to the drivers side. Not a big deal as I had planned to push the pedal over to the left slightly anyway. I don't have a clutch master for the truck YET but I think I need to go ahead and get one on the way. When all of these are installed and tested for clearance I can take them all back out to weld up the holes I don't need in the firewall. It gets cold in Montana and I don't need any extra air coming in.

 

[87BJ74]

Looks like your making good progress. Makes me want to actually start a build thread for my junk. I cant remember but did you make it to the cruiser meeting last month?

 

[HandForged]

Looks like your making good progress. Makes me want to actually start a build thread for my junk. I cant remember but did you make it to the cruiser meeting last month?

I'm retired so I can work on it a little every day,

I didn't make it up there, I had intended to go over and drop a pallet off at Fastenal, deliver some parts and then attend the meeting but it all sort of fell through at the last minute. It's a 2.5 hour drive and its a tough one on that stretch of highway back to WSS in the dark. Last time I did it I almost hit 9 elk crossing the road up by the ski resort. Not Fun.

 

[matzell]

I saw the HP number but any idea the torque output of that engine?

 

[HandForged]

I saw the HP number but any idea the torque output of that engine?

Somewhere around 300-350 ft lbs. Keep in mind the engine weighs about 340 pounds. HA!

 

[HandForged]

contemplating 4 or 6 body mounts on the extended cab. Anyone know how many a stock FJ45 has?

 

[87BJ74]

I'm retired so I can work on it a little every day,

I didn't make it up there, I had intended to go over and drop a pallet off at Fastenal, deliver some parts and then attend the meeting but it all sort of fell through at the last minute. It's a 2.5 hour drive and its a tough one on that stretch of highway back to WSS in the dark. Last time I did it I almost hit 9 elk crossing the road up by the ski resort. Not Fun.

Very lucky that you are able to.
That stretch is never fun in the winter time. Don't blame you.

 

[HandForged]

Todays work:

As I had the tub sitting on the chassis I thought this might be a good time to start on the rear section. I cut everything out that was rust or not needed and shored it all up with square tube. The seam in the floor got a piece of 1/8 wall 2x2 tubing which filled that slot nicely. Both sides were angled and will become the frame work for the floor of the rear section. I will rebuild the side ribs and structure of the rear curves with 2x2 shaped to fit. Then I moved over to the body sides. Everything that was removed will be replaced with 1/8" sheet instead of the much thinner steel. This is mainly for abuse. it seems like the rear corners always take a beating so I'm going ahead and beefing it up as I build it back.

 

[HandForged]

When I was cutting the rear section off of the FJ40 tub, I left the two inner wheel well pieces in place. They are in good shape with no rust so I thought they would make a good structural member at first. The more that I thought about it, they would also make a good tool box for small items on the inside of the cab! So I cut a could pieces of 1/8" sheet and started on the drivers side box. When the rear floor is sheeted I will extend it all the way to the rear curves of the tub, then continue to the back of the tub to join with the rear bulkhead. This will give these tool boxes a bottom of new steel. Once It's all in place I will figure out where to cut a door into them for the easiest access. If they were welded solid and filled with fiber fill they would also make a good place to put a couple sub woofers....Hmmmm...

 

[47coeman]

contemplating 4 or 6 body mounts on the extended cab. Anyone know how many a stock FJ45 has?

My 45 has 4, 2 back 2 front, on my build of the 35 I am doing 4 in back and 2 in front.

 

[47coeman]

Todays work:

As I had the tub sitting on the chassis I thought this might be a good time to start on the rear section. I cut everything out that was rust or not needed and shored it all up with square tube. The seam in the floor got a piece of 1/8 wall 2x2 tubing which filled that slot nicely. Both sides were angled and will become the frame work for the floor of the rear section. I will rebuild the side ribs and structure of the rear curves with 2x2 shaped to fit. Then I moved over to the body sides. Everything that was removed will be replaced with 1/8" sheet instead of the much thinner steel. This is mainly for abuse. it seems like the rear corners always take a beating so I'm going ahead and beefing it up as I build it back.

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Like the tool box idea you bcan never have enough storage.

 

[HandForged]

That was my thoughts exactly. I extended the cab to have leg room in the cab. Room to get away from the steering wheel and get comfortable. As we all know the space behind the seat in an extended cab truck is almost always dead space. I am going to finish up what I am working on and then put some thought into what I want to do with it. The tool boxes on the side will be helpful. I am sure I can build in more helpful things.

 

[HandForged]

well I told you I would think on it and that's exactly what I did. I was cutting steel to build the corner supports and thought, "I wonder". So I measured the almost rectangular block in that position and figured out the dimensions in fluid gallons. I came up with 64x13x10. That works out to just a shade over 36 gallons. That would be a very good location for a fuel tank. I could make it removable and skin the outside with 1/8" steel as I had intended. It would be tucked under the cab and out of the way. I like it. Now to figure if I want it in aluminum or steel.

 

[HandForged]

I've made a few fuel tanks before but nothing quite like this. The sides will be curved to match the sides of the tub in the rear. I am contemplating making it integral to the tub. Either way, it's a good location. I think steel would be the way to go on this one so I guess I need to get some steel ordered and make up some templates. Baffled properly and having a slightly sloping floor to the sump would give me good fuel pressure to the injector pump on the little diesel.

 

[47coeman]

I've made a few fuel tanks before but nothing quite like this. The sides will be curved to match the sides of the tub in the rear. I am contemplating making it integral to the tub. Either way, it's a good location. I think steel would be the way to go on this one so I guess I need to get some steel ordered and make up some templates. Baffled properly and having a slightly sloping floor to the sump would give me good fuel pressure to the injector pump on the little diesel.

Like your idea, anxious to see what it looks like in that spot...

 

[HandForged]

Like your idea, anxious to see what it looks like in that spot...

I was thinking of putting the tank in the bed but this is for the most part dead space under the tub there if I filled in the floor. This way the space is used, I have enough capacity for a decent sized tank and it is a safe location. Should be easy enough to fabricate and have the filler neck on the drivers side back corner, which I will most likely leave square. Notch the tub to recess the filler neck as much as I can. I will try to get the steel bent up Monday I think. I'll brake a rectangular shape to keep the welding seams to a minimum. Then pressure test before getting it mocked up. It can also serve as a structural member in the cab if I do it correctly.