Builds Let's build a 79 Series from parts... (4 Viewers)

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That does look good. Not sure about the fender guards going into the wheelwell though.

Might be fine for a leaf rear but a coil rear with all that twisty goodness, not so good.


It is to stop the damage multiplier. They tied it into the frame.

I learned long ago, if you plan to do hardcore off-roading, especially rock crawling forget about the body. I beat up a really nice rust free and very rare (for the USA) Nissan Patrol in the rocks, even with some exocage on it.

Cheers
 
I wanted an eco cage for the longest time, then I watched a stick get tangled in bar work, pierce the sheet metal and intrude into the passenger compartment. I don’t want an exo cage anymore.
 
I wanted an eco cage for the longest time, then I watched a stick get tangled in bar work, pierce the sheet metal and intrude into the passenger compartment. I don’t want an exo cage anymore.


Ya I am not a fan. I kind of had one on my Patrol but it was more to tie the tire carrier into the sliders. A 40” tire and two jerry cans is kind of heavy!

Cheers
 
How well does that deal with cab/bed flex?

I could have sworn they had some kind of joint or bushing in them in the upper part. I thought the same thing when I first started looking at them about the flex.
 
I wanted an eco cage for the longest time, then I watched a stick get tangled in bar work, pierce the sheet metal and intrude into the passenger compartment. I don’t want an exo cage anymore.
Yikes! Never thought about that!
 
It is to stop the damage multiplier. They tied it into the frame.

I learned long ago, if you plan to do hardcore off-roading, especially rock crawling forget about the body. I beat up a really nice rust free and very rare (for the USA) Nissan Patrol in the rocks, even with some exocage on it.

Cheers

Hello,

x2.

In the competition between body and external objects (rocks, branches, you name it) the latter always win.






Juan
 
Since my last build, I've been doing a lot of research on different types of interior sound deadening/thermal coatings. I decided on this truck that I would not do the Lizard Skin coating like I did in #1. No real reason other than I want to try out some different coatings...maybe have an alternative to offer our clients.

I think Lizard Skin did great in #1.....that cab is always very cool inside and sound deadening is pretty good(although I have nothing to compare it to). Being that #2 will be a diesel, I think trying to get rid of as much sound as possible will be smart. Insulating the cab is also very important.....I think Lizard Skin did a killer job with that.

For #2, I decided to go with Second Skin Audio's products. (www.secondskinaudio.com) They have an excellent tech guy there....extremely helpful and always willing to answer my questions.....and I ask a lot of them.

I'll be starting with their Damplifier (Products - VIBRATION DAMPERS - CLD * MADE IN THE USA * - Damplifier™ - Second Skin Audio) product....a Constraing Layer Damper(CLD). Basically a butyl type stick on sound deadener, 1mm thick(they offer a PRO version, 2mm thick) is what I will use in certain areas, 2mm in others.

I started with the roof and the 1mm Damplifier. I will be spraying their Spectrum (Tomb like silence & luxury car quiet with Spectrum™ | Hot Rod noise reduction | Second Skin Audio, Made in the USA.) spray in sound deadener on top of this....2mm thick to achieve 3mm total. Spectrum is a CLD like the butyl stuff but not as heavy and apparently more effective. I'm sure it's the typical latex coating with microspheres....just like Lizard Skin. Interesting that the butyl goes UNDER the coating. "Sandwiching" is what they call it in the biz.

On top of that, I will use their Heat Wave Pro (https://store.secondskinaudio.com/heat-wave-pro/)...a lightweight jute material sandwiched by foil. Controls heat and deadens sounds that aren't dampened by the butyl/spray on stuff. Also can be compressed to fit under panels(like a headliner).

None of this stuff is anything new.....I'm sure there are plenty of ways to do it cheaper. I like ordering from one place and when they have great customer service and technical assistance, they get my business. We'll see how it does in #2....

Started with a super clean roof. It's easy to get spoiled with these new cabs. Basically zero prep. Last one we did was in my 45LV....pretty much as bad as it can get.

1950491


This back wall is a challenge(for me at least)...I love the corrugated exposed painted metal but it's horrible for road noise. I think this truck is going to get a grey carpet on that back wall(maybe vinyl?)...I'll coat this area with butyl and spray in deadeners INSIDE the truck...then I'll do spray sound deadener top coated with bedliner on the outside.

1950494


1mm stuff was easy to work with overhead. I think I'll do the 2MM on the floors.

1950501


Their Damplifier is ready for spraying the Spectrum on....does not need to be scuffed or prepped. Just tape things out and give it a spray.

1950502
 
By chance did you take sound samples with no. 1?
 
By chance did you take sound samples with no. 1?

Nope....never did any kind of testing. But since #1 is right next door to the shop, I can certainly do that. I would imagine there is some kind of app or something for that. Might be a fun test.
 
I'd be interested in seeing the difference in numbers too.
I'm leaning towards Lizard Skin sound and thermal with Second Skin (or similar) on top.
Shooting for "quieter than a stock 200".

I've got a LX570 and if I could get it 1/10th as quiet as that tomb of a truck, I'd be happy. That thing is quieter than most any of the high end cars we deal with. It's hard to believe how quiet it is and it's an 08. Incredible.

I explained to Eric at SecondSkin about how I did #1....he politely told me I got it all wrong. Lol. My goal with that truck was dealing with floorboard temps on the passenger side and obviously reducing sound. It works and it works very well but I think where I went wrong was what I did after the Lizard Skin. I wanted more dampening so I put Dynamat ON the Lizard Skin. Big no-no I guess. And then I made these goofy Dynapad mats in certain areas. Eric says they don't do a thing.

The new truck is going to be the butyl, spray on sound deadening(mostly to get in nooks and crannies) and then the mass loaded vinyl. That's going to be pretty cool stuff......that's their Luxury Liner product. That will cover the COMPLETE floor......no gaps, fully sealed. Going to be a little tricky to do I think and make it all lay down nice.

Also going to do under the hood. Damplifier, Spectrum, Megazorbe(really slick 1" thick foam pad with a foil 'face').

Fire wall is the tricky one....still undecided. Thinking of doing one of 2 things....on the engine side, 1mm of butyl, then Spectrum, then bedliner(Raptor). I want to spray the firewall, the floorboards and the back of the cab with bedliner. Probably will do white. I've done a lot of Raptor.....easy to use and good stuff. Interesting thing I learned....applies to any of the latex sound deadeners.....let it dry for a MONTH before you top coat. All the water in the latex needs to dry before top coating.

The one thing that I am considering is using the Heat Wave Pro for the trans tunnel and maybe the lower portion of the firewall. You can seal the edges so it doesn't absorb water(obviously a fear of mine since this isn't a car that might not see off road conditions....this truck will go offroad). The Heat Wave Pro can go on the engine side or the passenger compartment side. A lot of the cars we take apart have really cool felt panels on the firewalls.....must work good.

My truck has a heavy jute/rubber/vinyl mat for the inside firewall from Toyota. Not sure I want to use that. Might just make my own. It doesn't do well taking it in and out...seems to fall apart(crack). I'm guessing all the trucks have some sort of insulation in them on the firewall.

My biggest regret on #1 was that I didn't do enough on the firewall. I sprayed it with Lizard Skin and thought it would solve all my worries. I should have done more.
 
The "all wrong" way I did #1. Eric at Second Skin says that sound and heat flows around things like water does.....so there can be no gaps, no places for sound to "escape". I thought the Dynapad was kind of cool. Ha.

PA243013.jpg


Proper way to seal up a floor...

1951035
 
Spectrum on a firewall.
1951036


Heat Wave Pro on a firewall. I really like this setup. I'll mostly likely bond the foil backed jute to the firewall. Might double stick tape it. Need to experiment a little.
1951037


Damplifier, Spectrum, Mega'Zorbe under a hood.

1951040
 
Interesting stuff.
I just shot Second Skin an email for some info.
Looks like I have a lot of reading to do. I'm pretty clueless about this stuff.

I thought I knew what I was doing....I had no idea. Lol. Eric is excellent.....a wealth of info. It will be interesting to see what they come up with for you and your build. I suppose that roof is going to be a big area of concern.

And don't forget, if you're going this far, make sure you get those windows tinted in 3M Crystalline heat rejection film. AMAZING stuff. The amount of heat it keeps out of the interior is staggering.

Are you going to do a bedliner inside the Troopy?
 
I thought I knew what I was doing....I had no idea. Lol. Eric is excellent.....a wealth of info. It will be interesting to see what they come up with for you and your build. I suppose that roof is going to be a big area of concern.

And don't forget, if you're going this far, make sure you get those windows tinted in 3M Crystalline heat rejection film. AMAZING stuff. The amount of heat it keeps out of the interior is staggering.

Are you going to do a bedliner inside the Troopy?

Yeah I shot them a couple of pics. We'll see what they say.

I don't think I'll bedline the inside. I think it would be too rough around the exposed metal areas in the cargo area and especially on the doors where your arm would rest. But I need to see what Line-X Ultra feels like in person. It's suppose to be very smooth. If so, maybe I'll blast the interior too.
If not, probably paint or something. I haven't decided.
 
Nope....never did any kind of testing. But since #1 is right next door to the shop, I can certainly do that. I would imagine there is some kind of app or something for that. Might be a fun test.

I bought a $20 decibel reader off amazon. I baselined my 77 at 79db with new weather stripping. After switching from XZLs to Toyo MTs I’m at 76db. My secret (improbable) goal is to match my wife’s E class.
 
Yeah I shot them a couple of pics. We'll see what they say.

I don't think I'll bedline the inside. I think it would be too rough around the exposed metal areas in the cargo area and especially on the doors where your arm would rest. But I need to see what Line-X Ultra feels like in person. It's suppose to be very smooth. If so, maybe I'll blast the interior too.
If not, probably paint or something. I haven't decided.

Do it like how we did my LV....all floors, rear cargo area sides, midway up the b-pillar. Doors would suck with it on it OR just do the lower portion. When it's color matched, it blends right in. I have LineX in the bed of #1 and it's very smooth. They can spray it anyway you want. We have a FJ40 in the shop right now that has Raptor on it....it's about the texture of an eggshell. It's a really nice job. I was talking to the Raptor rep for our area and the stuff he was telling me that they can do with it is incredible. Playing around with how much you cut it down, the type of gun, pressure, etc. can make some cool finishes.
 
I bought a $20 decibel reader off amazon. I baselined my 77 at 79db with new weather stripping. After switching from XZLs to Toyo MTs I’m at 76db. My secret (improbable) goal is to match my wife’s E class.

Maybe I'll have to get one of those...
 

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