Game on! That sounds like it needs to be done!
Builds Let's Baseline my new to me 1993 Land Cruiser (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter PNWTreeOctopus
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PNWTreeOctopus
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Had some heaving weather with threats of 1.75” hail.
Hail missed us, but I got to dry 100 pound blankets anyway. I know there are big inflatable car covers. The Midwest hates vehicles. Seriously.
Hail missed us, but I got to dry 100 pound blankets anyway. I know there are big inflatable car covers. The Midwest hates vehicles. Seriously.
PNWTreeOctopus
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- #1,683
Minor Projects
Installed a new throttle cable. The last one lasted about 30 years and 229k. It looks kinda bad. I was chasing down a couple of issues that may or may not be affected by my cables terrible shape. The first is my cruise control is intermittent and will sometimes not function. And the second was a high idle 1100-1500 after getting the car warmed up and driving. It's been on my list for..well at this point years.
After getting the new cable all routed and bolted in I adjusted the cable tensioner nuts to remove all the slack and went to fore up the cruiser to hopefully experiance what others rave about with a new and smooth throttle cable, but the truck wouldn't start. The made all kinds of rapid clicking noises and well I suspected the battery. I had it load tested today and it was spent, bought it in 2021 and abused it. I promise to do better this time.
Soooo after researching some batteries and continually running into posts from @FMC80 saying to not over think the battery, buy whatever etc., I continued to over think and do lots of hand wringing and settled on a group 27F x2power AGM battery from Batteries Plus. It's the best battery joint I can source in this part of the world and these x2Power batteries are rebadged Northstars. MUSA, 4 year warranty, and bigger and more amp hours than my lead acid Dekka 24F. $440 later the truck starts right up. add that to the spread sheet.
It's a snug fit, but not horrible, and the wildly unpopular on ih8mud OEM battery hold down fits. I will be looking at a land cruiser Phil hold down to keep things locked down for the future.
Did this solve my high idle? not really. In fact it was odd because after my errands with my new battery I had high idle again. I could pull on th back of the gas pedal and bring it all back down. So I'm wondering if there isn't some sort of sticking in the throttle components. Im not totally sure how to track this all down. There are so many threads on mud about high idea issues. I'm going to fine tune the cable tension and see how that affects things. But there are other odd symptoms that I can't quite figure out too. I'll post more when I have time to keep monkeying with the truck.
I didn't get to use the cruise control. You have to be 1 hour out of the city to engage it as people drive like have to take a really big s*** ASAP here and it is not possible to cruise.
Installed a new throttle cable. The last one lasted about 30 years and 229k. It looks kinda bad. I was chasing down a couple of issues that may or may not be affected by my cables terrible shape. The first is my cruise control is intermittent and will sometimes not function. And the second was a high idle 1100-1500 after getting the car warmed up and driving. It's been on my list for..well at this point years.
After getting the new cable all routed and bolted in I adjusted the cable tensioner nuts to remove all the slack and went to fore up the cruiser to hopefully experiance what others rave about with a new and smooth throttle cable, but the truck wouldn't start. The made all kinds of rapid clicking noises and well I suspected the battery. I had it load tested today and it was spent, bought it in 2021 and abused it. I promise to do better this time.
Soooo after researching some batteries and continually running into posts from @FMC80 saying to not over think the battery, buy whatever etc., I continued to over think and do lots of hand wringing and settled on a group 27F x2power AGM battery from Batteries Plus. It's the best battery joint I can source in this part of the world and these x2Power batteries are rebadged Northstars. MUSA, 4 year warranty, and bigger and more amp hours than my lead acid Dekka 24F. $440 later the truck starts right up. add that to the spread sheet.
It's a snug fit, but not horrible, and the wildly unpopular on ih8mud OEM battery hold down fits. I will be looking at a land cruiser Phil hold down to keep things locked down for the future.
Did this solve my high idle? not really. In fact it was odd because after my errands with my new battery I had high idle again. I could pull on th back of the gas pedal and bring it all back down. So I'm wondering if there isn't some sort of sticking in the throttle components. Im not totally sure how to track this all down. There are so many threads on mud about high idea issues. I'm going to fine tune the cable tension and see how that affects things. But there are other odd symptoms that I can't quite figure out too. I'll post more when I have time to keep monkeying with the truck.
I didn't get to use the cruise control. You have to be 1 hour out of the city to engage it as people drive like have to take a really big s*** ASAP here and it is not possible to cruise.
FMC80
SILVER Star
Damn G! What’s up with your idle? If you’re not 650 +/- 25 you’re forking wrong! Jk.Minor Projects
Installed a new throttle cable. The last one lasted about 30 years and 229k. It looks kinda bad. I was chasing down a couple of issues that may or may not be affected by my cables terrible shape. The first is my cruise control is intermittent and will sometimes not function. And the second was a high idle 1100-1500 after getting the car warmed up and driving. It's been on my list for..well at this point years. View attachment 3735202View attachment 3735207
After getting the new cable all routed and bolted in I adjusted the cable tensioner nuts to remove all the slack and went to fore up the cruiser to hopefully experiance what others rave about with a new and smooth throttle cable, but the truck wouldn't start. The made all kinds of rapid clicking noises and well I suspected the battery. I had it load tested today and it was spent, bought it in 2021 and abused it. I promise to do better this time.
Soooo after researching some batteries and continually running into posts from @FMC80 saying to not over think the battery, buy whatever etc., I continued to over think and do lots of hand wringing and settled on a group 27F x2power AGM battery from Batteries Plus. It's the best battery joint I can source in this part of the world and these x2Power batteries are rebadged Northstars. MUSA, 4 year warranty, and bigger and more amp hours than my lead acid Dekka 24F. $440 later the truck starts right up. add that to the spread sheet.
View attachment 3735215
It's a snug fit, but not horrible, and the wildly unpopular on ih8mud OEM battery hold down fits. I will be looking at a land cruiser Phil hold down to keep things locked down for the future.
Did this solve my high idle? not really. In fact it was odd because after my errands with my new battery I had high idle again. I could pull on th back of the gas pedal and bring it all back down. So I'm wondering if there isn't some sort of sticking in the throttle components. Im not totally sure how to track this all down. There are so many threads on mud about high idea issues. I'm going to fine tune the cable tension and see how that affects things. But there are other odd symptoms that I can't quite figure out too. I'll post more when I have time to keep monkeying with the truck.
I didn't get to use the cruise control. You have to be 1 hour out of the city to engage it as people drive like have to take a really big s*** ASAP here and it is not possible to cruise.
What is the rpm at idle upon first start? What does it settle at after it’s warmed up? Does it oscillate?
Batteries are stupids expensive. So is everything else, but that’s another topic. I’m also sure you over thought and bought.
Good seeing a post from you.
PNWTreeOctopus
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- #1,685
I did overthink. But I kept things simple and dodged the dual battery setup again--as I can't seem to justify it since I only go to Starbucks in my rig.Damn G! What’s up with your idle? If you’re not 650 +/- 25 you’re forking wrong! Jk.
What is the rpm at idle upon first start? What does it settle at after it’s warmed up? Does it oscillate?
Batteries are stupids expensive. So is everything else, but that’s another topic. I’m also sure you over thought and bought.
Good seeing a post from you.
RPM upon start up is like its similar to how its always been? RPMs settle to 650 + or - after warmed up to temp. I was thinking it was an air leak at first since I discovered my main intake hose clamp was not tight ( second time this has happed to me when using a shop).
Anyhow I have some more poking around to do. I still haven't sorted out the A/C system, and nobody has purchased or installed sliders or a winch for this tub. WTF? I even had a midlife crisis birthday last week. But, the good news is that im planning some trips, and hoping to use the cruiser to do them. I might even try and get it stuck.
you never know....
Greg, I too am winchless! Hopefully you are planning eastern OR!
PNWTreeOctopus
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- Thread starter
- #1,687
Upgraded Battery and Ground cables
I also got a couple of new mil spec terminals. They are beefy. My only complaint is that they require a SAE wrench to loosen. One more wrench to bring along. I'm not 100% set on the cable routing/ connection to the terminals. The group 29 battery terminals are not lined up well with the battery box, but it's not a deal breaker. I'm looking forward to pushing on to the other electrical work Ive been avoiding. I may have a little time this week to attend to getting the QPM back into the rig and finishing the locker plumbing/ wiring. I am toying with changing the layout of my QPM to get my KENWOOD dual band mobile radio back there. Ive had this radio for years, and I'd love to have it mounted up. Then there are the reverse light pods sitting in a box, and a cargo/ hatch light....it goes on and on.
I also got a couple of new mil spec terminals. They are beefy. My only complaint is that they require a SAE wrench to loosen. One more wrench to bring along. I'm not 100% set on the cable routing/ connection to the terminals. The group 29 battery terminals are not lined up well with the battery box, but it's not a deal breaker. I'm looking forward to pushing on to the other electrical work Ive been avoiding. I may have a little time this week to attend to getting the QPM back into the rig and finishing the locker plumbing/ wiring. I am toying with changing the layout of my QPM to get my KENWOOD dual band mobile radio back there. Ive had this radio for years, and I'd love to have it mounted up. Then there are the reverse light pods sitting in a box, and a cargo/ hatch light....it goes on and on.
PNWTreeOctopus
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- Thread starter
- #1,688
Setbacks are part of forward progress I think
Ive been pluggign away on the lingering electrical aspects of my locker install. I have been cleaning up wiring and making things neat and tidy. My remaining tasks were to wire up the compressor switch and test my compressor and locker solinoids. how exciting! Thinking my self clever with a DMM, I pulled the dash apart and started poking around looking for 12v switched power and a 12v illumination circuit.
in my 1993 LC there are some curved switch blanks that live above the dimmer and mirror control. when you open the dash up there are a couple of plastic connectors that are unused and taped up and out of the way. Because I didnt want to use a t-tap, but rather create a crimped splice for my compressor switch circuits, i didnt want to disturb a circuit in use so I settled on one of these plugs. I managed to get it all crimped and taped and it looked great!
But I discovered that when my switch was turned to the off position my headlights came on. Blarg. It also seemed to do something odd to my locker indicator lights in the dash--they were lit up on the dash despite the locker switch being "off". Sooo, despite being all ready to test my compressor and locker solenoids before I reinstall the QPM I am back to switch wiring.
The wiring guide I used was the OEM switch locker guide that used to be available on Wit's End, I bought a prebuilt harness from them and somehow it shipped in the middle of their implosion. My first task will be to cut my switch harness out and start looking for a better source of switched power for my project. What I lack is a resource that tells me what is the original function of those unused harnesses. People often tap the tail light circuit for illumination power and I may in the end do that.
Honestly I am not happy with the ARB switch. It fits poorly in the switch blank in my rig. Its a super tight squeeze and it will not seat fully into the dash without the rocking portion of the switch hitting the surrounding dash thereby making the switch inoperable. So in order to make it work it needs to not be seated fully. Its totally not noticeable, but it bothers me.
and before you ask what on earth that fugly switch in the left curved switch slot is, its the amazing rotary switch that came with my Hella Rallye 4000 wiring harness. Its kind of ugly, sure, but the harness was made in Germany and is so stout I couldn't pass it up. I do have an unused rear defroster switch that I may utilize for either the compressor switch, or the Driving light switch.
Funny how the switch pros look more and more appealing all of a sudden....
Ive been pluggign away on the lingering electrical aspects of my locker install. I have been cleaning up wiring and making things neat and tidy. My remaining tasks were to wire up the compressor switch and test my compressor and locker solinoids. how exciting! Thinking my self clever with a DMM, I pulled the dash apart and started poking around looking for 12v switched power and a 12v illumination circuit.
in my 1993 LC there are some curved switch blanks that live above the dimmer and mirror control. when you open the dash up there are a couple of plastic connectors that are unused and taped up and out of the way. Because I didnt want to use a t-tap, but rather create a crimped splice for my compressor switch circuits, i didnt want to disturb a circuit in use so I settled on one of these plugs. I managed to get it all crimped and taped and it looked great!
But I discovered that when my switch was turned to the off position my headlights came on. Blarg. It also seemed to do something odd to my locker indicator lights in the dash--they were lit up on the dash despite the locker switch being "off". Sooo, despite being all ready to test my compressor and locker solenoids before I reinstall the QPM I am back to switch wiring.
The wiring guide I used was the OEM switch locker guide that used to be available on Wit's End, I bought a prebuilt harness from them and somehow it shipped in the middle of their implosion. My first task will be to cut my switch harness out and start looking for a better source of switched power for my project. What I lack is a resource that tells me what is the original function of those unused harnesses. People often tap the tail light circuit for illumination power and I may in the end do that.
Honestly I am not happy with the ARB switch. It fits poorly in the switch blank in my rig. Its a super tight squeeze and it will not seat fully into the dash without the rocking portion of the switch hitting the surrounding dash thereby making the switch inoperable. So in order to make it work it needs to not be seated fully. Its totally not noticeable, but it bothers me.
and before you ask what on earth that fugly switch in the left curved switch slot is, its the amazing rotary switch that came with my Hella Rallye 4000 wiring harness. Its kind of ugly, sure, but the harness was made in Germany and is so stout I couldn't pass it up. I do have an unused rear defroster switch that I may utilize for either the compressor switch, or the Driving light switch.
Funny how the switch pros look more and more appealing all of a sudden....
PNWTreeOctopus
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- #1,689
Looks like zero fun and unfortunately that kind of frustration looms in my not so distant future.
PNWTreeOctopus
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It’s only not fun when you can’t figure it out. But you feel amazing when it starts to make sense and a little forward progress is achieved. It could be way worse, but I don’t need it to be more challenging.
PNWTreeOctopus
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- #1,692
Honestly what keeps me motivated is to spend 15 minutes looking at land cruisers for sale on FB marketplace here in the Midwest. 20k for a “built” 80 series LC with 275k and a locker switch….some of them might even have lockers too, but some of them have a $50 switch. Also rust. So much rust.
So my nearly rust free cruiser with 230k and all the work put into it feels great—even with the dash exploded and wires barfed everywhere.
So my nearly rust free cruiser with 230k and all the work put into it feels great—even with the dash exploded and wires barfed everywhere.
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PNWTreeOctopus
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- #1,693
Locker Dash Light Challenge
Still farting around with the locker indicator lights. I have some sort of weird ground issue. The indicator lights stay dimly lit when the truck is on, then when the locker dial is turned they light up brighter. I noticed that it seemed to be a loose connection at the Wits end harness, then it broke and I had to crimp on a new female "pin". It was a little bit of a s*** show.
After checking the grounds in my arb compressor and locker circuit I think Im getting closer. I have the the compressor wired up and the compressor switch is working as well. I think it all is in working order, but if the indicator lights are always on It will drive me crazy. I'd rather not have them light at all. It seems others have had this issue with factory lockers and it has to do with the ground in the dash.
Ive had the dash apart 3 times now and I'm getting tired of ****ing with the stupid thing, but since its all apart I'm compelled to just get it right. Unfortunately its November and the weather in Minnesota will probably change from mild to Uff-da or something soon.
I did change a dash bulb out to a proper "green" one. Green sharpie ink over a white bulb isn't the same! I also have some gear arriving this week, including a Passenger dash grab bar, a couple of nice antennas, coax and and an NMO mount to go on my FrontRunner rack for my Kenwood dual band that I am installing into the QPM. I do hope to get that all wrapped up too before I store this rig for the winter.
Yea no pictures of me struggling. My spouse is in Australia and keeps sending me photos of Land Cruisers. I am hopeful that she will catch the Troopy bug since she keeps sending photos of them. So, cool pic to generate stoke for my dash lights.
Still farting around with the locker indicator lights. I have some sort of weird ground issue. The indicator lights stay dimly lit when the truck is on, then when the locker dial is turned they light up brighter. I noticed that it seemed to be a loose connection at the Wits end harness, then it broke and I had to crimp on a new female "pin". It was a little bit of a s*** show.
After checking the grounds in my arb compressor and locker circuit I think Im getting closer. I have the the compressor wired up and the compressor switch is working as well. I think it all is in working order, but if the indicator lights are always on It will drive me crazy. I'd rather not have them light at all. It seems others have had this issue with factory lockers and it has to do with the ground in the dash.
Ive had the dash apart 3 times now and I'm getting tired of ****ing with the stupid thing, but since its all apart I'm compelled to just get it right. Unfortunately its November and the weather in Minnesota will probably change from mild to Uff-da or something soon.
I did change a dash bulb out to a proper "green" one. Green sharpie ink over a white bulb isn't the same! I also have some gear arriving this week, including a Passenger dash grab bar, a couple of nice antennas, coax and and an NMO mount to go on my FrontRunner rack for my Kenwood dual band that I am installing into the QPM. I do hope to get that all wrapped up too before I store this rig for the winter.
Yea no pictures of me struggling. My spouse is in Australia and keeps sending me photos of Land Cruisers. I am hopeful that she will catch the Troopy bug since she keeps sending photos of them. So, cool pic to generate stoke for my dash lights.
PNWTreeOctopus
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- #1,694
A clue
I think I found my issue with the dash lights. I cut the ARB harness apart to modify it for the factory switch system. I remembered that there were diodes in the system, and guess what? They are in the section of the harness for the dash lights. I ran into a thread about wiring the OEM switch on the 120 forum and I remembered that there might have been diodes in my original switch, but they were absent from my wits end wiring diagram included with their harness. SO I have a place to start tomorrow when I get back after this issue. Hopefully I get this wrapped back up quickly and this will provide a solution. Thank god I kept the old harness bits.
I think I found my issue with the dash lights. I cut the ARB harness apart to modify it for the factory switch system. I remembered that there were diodes in the system, and guess what? They are in the section of the harness for the dash lights. I ran into a thread about wiring the OEM switch on the 120 forum and I remembered that there might have been diodes in my original switch, but they were absent from my wits end wiring diagram included with their harness. SO I have a place to start tomorrow when I get back after this issue. Hopefully I get this wrapped back up quickly and this will provide a solution. Thank god I kept the old harness bits.
FMC80
SILVER Star
Good troubleshooting there, G! I hope you figure this out because I want new content in your thread!
PNWTreeOctopus
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- #1,696
FFS, me too.Good troubleshooting there, G! I hope you figure this out because I want new content in your thread!
PNWTreeOctopus
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- #1,697
Close enough
Well, I double checked my work, caught an error on how I configured a splice and ground, added a diode from the original harness and now I have my issue mostly solved. The locker lights are not not illuminated unless i turn the locker switch dial. however the front locker light comes on faintly with the rear, then illuminates fully when I turn the dial to front. So, I'm happy with it. I may try one more thing, but I am tired of chasing this little issue. It is clear enough to tell that the front is or isn't engaged.
I am proud of how clean I did my harness work.
I ran the harness back under the carpet and back to the dash. My dash is still completely exploded, but I think I will have it all back together tomorrow. I cleaned up my tools and the cargo area so that I can wrestle the QPM back in. In order to do that I just need to finish mounting my 2m/ 70cm radio body in to the QPM. It will be way easier to install it where i cant drop the tiny machine screws down into the quarter panel. I'll make sure to take some photos when I have it sorted out.
Well, I double checked my work, caught an error on how I configured a splice and ground, added a diode from the original harness and now I have my issue mostly solved. The locker lights are not not illuminated unless i turn the locker switch dial. however the front locker light comes on faintly with the rear, then illuminates fully when I turn the dial to front. So, I'm happy with it. I may try one more thing, but I am tired of chasing this little issue. It is clear enough to tell that the front is or isn't engaged.
I am proud of how clean I did my harness work.
I ran the harness back under the carpet and back to the dash. My dash is still completely exploded, but I think I will have it all back together tomorrow. I cleaned up my tools and the cargo area so that I can wrestle the QPM back in. In order to do that I just need to finish mounting my 2m/ 70cm radio body in to the QPM. It will be way easier to install it where i cant drop the tiny machine screws down into the quarter panel. I'll make sure to take some photos when I have it sorted out.
PNWTreeOctopus
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- #1,698
Winter Is Over-Time for an update
I am happy to report that I finally finished up all the electrical loose ends and closed up my QPM. This means I now have:
I have decided that I am not a huge fan of the body roll my rig has so I just ordered a Whiteline HD rear sway bar. I also decided to purchase a DeltaVS drop bracket for the rear panhard. I do notice some unpredictable movement under braking, and I've decided that more predictable handling at highway speeds would be appreciated.
I am happy to report that I finally finished up all the electrical loose ends and closed up my QPM. This means I now have:
- Onboard Air.--My chuck is mounted to the dead panel on my drawers
- Functioning Air Lockers
- Additional 12v outlets--(for passenger, driver, second row and cargo)
- Ham Radio (installed radio on QPM and routed the head and mic to the front, and installed a couple of CB external speakers under the dash.)
I have decided that I am not a huge fan of the body roll my rig has so I just ordered a Whiteline HD rear sway bar. I also decided to purchase a DeltaVS drop bracket for the rear panhard. I do notice some unpredictable movement under braking, and I've decided that more predictable handling at highway speeds would be appreciated.
@PNWTreeOctopus nice update on the QPM. Do you have a bus bar in the mount? Or do all of your accessories back there have their own wiring to the front? Remind me, do you run dual batteries?
PNWTreeOctopus
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- #1,700
Currently a single battery system. One big 2 gauge wire powers the QPM. It's fused with a blue sea terminal block at my battery and distributed at the QPM with a positive buss. From the buss I have three circuits. One circuit is my ARB dual compressor, the other two are to my bluesea fuse block that has an always hot side, and an ignition powered side. I'll post a current photo soon, for some reason my most recent photos are not handy!
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