PNWTreeOctopus
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That’s a front Toyota Diff with 4.88’s and an ARB air locker. Traction is coming my way!
Build Let's Baseline my new to me 1993 Land Cruiser
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Or a can of worms…….
Such a pessimist!
On the upside, if you blow everything up, it's easy to work on. RCVs up front are a good investment if you plan on getting rambunctious.
I’m now wondering. RCV plus 300m gears in the hubs over powered my ring and pinion.
Yeah, ideally you want your diveline "fuse" to be something cheap and easy to replace.
I've also seen video of you driving. I feel sorry for your diveline, end to end.
I’ll try to tone it down a bit…… seriously. Carnage is expensive and down time not happy time.Yeah, ideally you want your diveline "fuse" to be something cheap and easy to replace.
I've also seen video of you driving. I feel sorry for your diveline, end to end.
All true.
PNWTreeOctopus
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Home buying, Christmas, children, 8” of snow and 12 degrees outside make Land Cruiser projects move slowly.
I was sad I couldn’t rally my LC over to the mall to buy LEGOs and Xbox games in our snowpocolypse, but then my Subaru reminded me I should sacrifice it on the alter of sketchy driving conditions instead…so when it gets totaled by a Tesla or Sprinter van…I can get another Toyota.
I was sad I couldn’t rally my LC over to the mall to buy LEGOs and Xbox games in our snowpocolypse, but then my Subaru reminded me I should sacrifice it on the alter of sketchy driving conditions instead…so when it gets totaled by a Tesla or Sprinter van…I can get another Toyota.
very clever strategy for avoiding dealing with subaru headgasket issues
I felt bad that you haven't been able to mall crawl. So after work I did a little in your honor.
PNWTreeOctopus
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Exactly!
My 2010 forester is our daily and while it is utilitarian in every way. I love it and hate it at the same time. But my kids love it when I hit the rev limiter on the freeway on-ramp…my wife no so much.
PNWTreeOctopus
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You guys are the best. Pour out a Starbucks for me….
PNWTreeOctopus
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Still a hot mess in the PNW
No paddling today. But I did get my rear diff back. So post Xmas I’m hoping to have it back together so I can break in these gears!
No paddling today. But I did get my rear diff back. So post Xmas I’m hoping to have it back together so I can break in these gears!
Everything is finally melted down my way. But I heard whatcom is still getting it.
we're all melty down here too. I spent most of yesterday watching various folks fail at trying to both walk and drive. Some asshat hit our mailbox and didn't bother to say anything. I then had the great pleasure of needing to hit the grocery store today. Ugh. I should have gone ice driving yesterday. I haven't seen every cashier line backed up like the costco gas line in quite a while.
Merry Christmas everyone.
Merry Christmas everyone.
PNWTreeOctopus
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Made a bench top pressure test or for my lockers today.
The gauge is a PT regulator, cost $15. The push fitting is destined to go on my locker solenoid—no metric push fittings available at my local hardware store. So I’ll reuse it after testing….tomorrow.
The gauge is a PT regulator, cost $15. The push fitting is destined to go on my locker solenoid—no metric push fittings available at my local hardware store. So I’ll reuse it after testing….tomorrow.
Aren’t your lockers new? Why the testing?
PNWTreeOctopus
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Wellllllll….I was thinking that it might be good to test their function before I put all these axles back together. Also I have no idea what I’m doing and other folks seem to do this step beforehand so I’m just following the online herd. I like to draw processes like this out.
This is my first rodeo with air lockers, or any other lockers, so I’m just trying to learn as much as possible. Your question
I made recent posts to my thread showing the internal workings of the ARB and it’s locked and unlocked positions, and the bonded seal that acts as the air piston if you haven’t already seen it. They are quite simple.
I got mine to lock by forcing a Hansen valve with conical rubber tip over the air orifice on the carrier where the seal housing rides. Just a quick burst of air is all it took. Don’t ask me the PSI, it could have been 135 or something below 100. The gauge is on the compressor over in the corner. I did this just for educational purposes as the old bonded seal was still in the unit.
But now you have me figuring on doing this again once the new bonded seal is installed.
Good to see you diving in to the unknown and enjoying it.
I got mine to lock by forcing a Hansen valve with conical rubber tip over the air orifice on the carrier where the seal housing rides. Just a quick burst of air is all it took. Don’t ask me the PSI, it could have been 135 or something below 100. The gauge is on the compressor over in the corner. I did this just for educational purposes as the old bonded seal was still in the unit.
But now you have me figuring on doing this again once the new bonded seal is installed.
Good to see you diving in to the unknown and enjoying it.
PNWTreeOctopus
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I have greatly enjoyed that thread. It has me debating using the OEM dial switch vs three separate switches (compressor, front, rear). But I think I’d like the OEM switch until I pony up for a delta shifter console some day.