Build Let's Baseline my new to me 1993 Land Cruiser

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I bought two rocker switches so I can separate locker controls. They are not ARB brand but some AU company on eBay. The locked rear wants to push your steering wheels past your target in tight turn situations. These switches are supposed to fit into factory holes. We shall see.
 
PNWTreeOctopus said:
I have greatly enjoyed that thread. It has me debating using the OEM dial switch vs three separate switches (compressor, front, rear). But I think I’d like the OEM switch until I pony up for a delta shifter console some day.
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I'm a big fan of separate switches. I run a 5 gallon air tank on my setup, so I tend to leave my compressor off and there are times when I want to disengage my rear locker and engage my front only, which the OEM wiring doesn't like. Both lockers and compressor are on my Switch Pro.
 
Feldrian said:
I'm a big fan of separate switches. I run a 5 gallon air tank on my setup, so I tend to leave my compressor off and there are times when I want to disengage my rear locker and engage my front only, which the OEM wiring doesn't like. Both lockers and compressor are on my Switch Pro.
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I like your setup. Admittedly a switch pro setup is in my future….but there are a few important things between now and then.

For now I think I will be using the OEM dial and when I run into a situation where it is hindering me, I will move up the switch pro/ delta interior upgrades.

The air tank is interesting though, I’m not sure I really need it.
 
PNWTreeOctopus said:
I like your setup. Admittedly a switch pro setup is in my future….but there are a few important things between now and then.

For now I think I will be using the OEM dial and when I run into a situation where it is hindering me, I will move up the switch pro/ delta interior upgrades.

The air tank is interesting though, I’m not sure I really need it.
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The tank is nice if you have to bead up a tire or run an air tool. Other than that it's not adding a lot of utility.
 
Axle housings prepped for the thirds
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63A4C893-AEA0-45C0-B347-F78EE0A7D194.webp

I did manage to overlook buying gaskets for the thirds to axle housing junction. The gear install kits ship with FIPG, but I will go with Toyota gaskets—they worked great and sealed well enough that they didn’t come off easily…especially on the rear.
 
PNWTreeOctopus said:
Axle housings prepped for the thirdsView attachment 3203955
View attachment 3203958
I did manage to overlook buying gaskets for the thirds to axle housing junction. The gear install kits ship with FIPG, but I will go with Toyota gaskets—they worked great and sealed well enough that they didn’t come off easily…especially on the rear.
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You didn't take the housings off and paint them as part of prep? :flipoff2:
 
Feldrian said:
You didn't take the housings off and paint them as part of prep? :flipoff2:
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You can see the space im working with at this point...I'm over it!
 
Dusten said:
Or replace the studs?
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I haven't gotten that far yet. The studs seem fine? Are they really a wear item? Genuine question. Not snark!
 
PNWTreeOctopus said:
I haven't gotten that far yet. The studs seem fine? Are they really a wear item? Genuine question. Not snark!
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if you're wearing the studs that mount the 3rds, you're doing something wrong. If you're doing a bunch of crawling, the studs low on the housing will get a little mashed and might need replacing. Never seen them "worn" otherwise.

Caliper bolts and wheel studs are a different question. :cool:
 
Feldrian said:
if you're wearing the studs that mount the 3rds, you're doing something wrong. If you're doing a bunch of crawling, the studs low on the housing will get a little mashed and might need replacing. Never seen them "worn" otherwise.

Caliper bolts and wheel studs are a different question. :cool:
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That’s what I’m thinking. To my knowledge my rig has only seen the drive through.
 
Feldrian said:
if you're wearing the studs that mount the 3rds, you're doing something wrong. If you're doing a bunch of crawling, the studs low on the housing will get a little mashed and might need replacing. Never seen them "worn" otherwise.

Caliper bolts and wheel studs are a different question. :cool:
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And I should probably replace those items too…especially the caliper bolts.
 
PNWTreeOctopus said:
I haven't gotten that far yet. The studs seem fine? Are they really a wear item? Genuine question. Not snark!
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I decided to replace the studs in my front housing since it’s out and stripped. Landtank Products sells and “High strength” 10.9 stud kit for the front which I purchased for $45. Pretty sure the oem studs are 10.9 as well. Can’t remember if he sells a kit for the rear or not.

I priced out buying all the pieces from Belmetric and it came out a wash.

My housing is out and all it’s gonna get is a quick sprits of Rustoleum flat black. I was over that a couple decades ago.
 
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Pondering my next move...

Having my cruiser's axles apart for this re-gear over the holidays has made progress very slow. There have been many reasons for not getting to my project, but kids home from school and buying a house are the two main reasons. Its been fun to hang out with my sub-adults over the winter break. The frenzy of Christmas, Xbox mayhem, and some proper snow days have made it memorable, but I am glad that school has started up because we all need the routine to help moderate us. Now that we have finished closing on our house we have some time lines to work with. The good/ bad news is that I really dont have a project time line for the cruiser. I do in the sense that I need it drivable ASAP (which is meaningless in this thread) so I can get my garage back to its former glory of storage unit, but I dont really have a timeline other than I need it finished before we drive away from the PNW.

I have been trying to get the stars to align for a SW USA road trip through some of canyon country, but caring for my dad and time were not conducive to a far away trip. This year we are going to plan another trip, but were taking the family to Scotland to poke around old family headstones, and visit the wild and lonely parts of hat place. It's a splurge in honor of my late pops who was a well traveled man, and enjoyed taking his family to far flung places. We think he would approve.

So back to cruisers. Now that I dont have to get things "ready' for a spring trip I am contemplating changing the suspension components up. The problem is I really don't know how to approach this. I finally have some financial resources to put towards the rig, but I want to make sure that I buy parts that will make the right the best road trip-able wheeler it can be. So I am spending time researching my options and trying to learn about various directions to go.

Some Facts:
  • I want to stay with 35" tires as I just spent a bunch of cash installing 4.88 gears. (plus if I go 6" and 37"+ it will be hard to reach the Starbucks drive through...)
  • I think the current suspension works amazing when I have my whole family and a weeks worth of food and camping gear in the back
  • I currently have the most basic suspension lift: OME springs--I presume "heavy", fox 2.0 shocks, and thats it. original bushings in all other components.
  • I did extend the brake lines, but I haven't messed with my LSPV (but I have a new one to install as I'm going to try and keep my ABS
  • I am planning to have any suspension work done by a shop. I have reached a place with the cruiser that I would like to have someone else do the work for me, otherwise I may not have things finished in time to drive/trailer it to MN.
So I know that my Land Cruiser's handling adn suspension will be greatly improved with fresh bushings all around, but I dont really know where to start with all the other pieces. I know I'd like to spend money on the DVS radius arms, but only when I settle on either keeping my current OME springs/ fox shocks, or switching it up. So im researching all the other parts of the suspension and trying to understand how they will improve/ change my Cruiser. I know that there are lots of other parts to the suspension and I really need to get a handle on what I want to improve.

Its a confusing place to be, given that I'm sort of stuck with the PO's choices, which were made with the cheapest possible setup in mind, and I want to build a really capable rig that is also comfortable to rally 1100 miles of highway also. The last piece of this puzzle is that the Cruiser will be driven significantly less when I move to MN. We are planning to retire the trusty Subaru and pony up for a new(ish) tacoma and sell the 1990 DLX mini truck.

So, that's my current place of thinking and I'm excited to be here. But I can't write my way into making the rig driveable. Next updates will have pictures of me actually with dirty hands and differentials and axles...I promise. Your thoughts are as always welcome. I know you all have great ways to spend my money!
 
I've been really happy with my setup for highway drivability - the current suspension will cruise at 90 MPH down the highway with 1 finger on the wheel.

Happy yo chat here or over a beer if you want some unvarnished input.
 
Feldrian said:
I've been really happy with my setup for highway drivability - the current suspension will cruise at 90 MPH down the highway with 1 finger on the wheel.

Happy yo chat here or over a beer if you want some unvarnished input.
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I can do the one finger thing but at more like 60 behind the 1fz. LOL
 
G, get yourself some Slinky action! Don’t listen to Matt, he bought like 4 different suspension setups before he finally got it right. Plus he boils fuel. :flipoff2:
 
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