LED instrument panel/gauge cluster (17 Viewers)
- Thread starter anthonycds
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After viewing Loud's LED thread, I had the urge to update most of the the bulbs behind my gauges to LEDs. No more dull lookin' gauges at night.
Bulbs replaced were the speedometer, tach, fuel, water, oil, and battery. Gear shift indicators, turn signals, and brights were updated as well. Didn't feel the need to change other bulbs such as VSC/TRAC, ABS, Brake, etc.
To remove the instrument panel, gently pull the black cluster panel finish towards you. It is fastened via clips and shouldn't break. The black panel houses the dimmer switch which can either be disconnected or just swung out of the way.
Unscrew the 2 black screws at the top and bottom corners of the instrument panel. Next, loosen the 2 bigger gold captive screws at the bottom of the inst. panel. Once loose, gently pull the panel towards you. If it doesn't move freely towards you, you need to further loosen the screws as they are connected to wire harness connectors behind the inst. panel.
Remove the glass inst. panel cover and top of the steering column cover. (thx Loud) You should now be able to slide the inst. panel to the left of the steering wheel.
Bulb locations updated
The 3 types of bulbs that were replaced
Shift indicator lights were replaced with this Type B
from autolumination.com: $3.49 ea.
I plan to change these as they are TOO BRIGHT at night.
All other bulbs. V-LEDS.com #74 6k white: $6.99/pair
Keyring light also takes the same #74 bulb which I switched out too.
Currently working on this. Is there a correct way to orient the bulb while putting them in? Or does any side inserted makes it still work?
I'm having trouble getting everything to work. Right now, the whole instrumental panel is non-functional. I made sure to sit it in right and screwed just the 2 screws that hold the plugs in (1 & 2). I'm also just testing with one bulb (3) to see if it will come on. The intention is to get it to work, see it's orientation and then copy/do the same with the other 5 blue ones. The "Toshiba" is on the lower side. Three tests in, no luck.
Pretty much can't drive around. No speedometer, the gauges, nothing. Perhaps the fuses? I have to leave and work on this later on tonight when I get back home. Was looking forward to using the cruiser today but have to take time to workout this electrical stuff.
Think I might just put everything back as it was originally (in working configuration hopefully) and work my way through the replacements.
Any input, highly appreciated.
Pretty much can't drive around. No speedometer, the gauges, nothing. Perhaps the fuses? I have to leave and work on this later on tonight when I get back home. Was looking forward to using the cruiser today but have to take time to workout this electrical stuff.
Think I might just put everything back as it was originally (in working configuration hopefully) and work my way through the replacements.
Any input, highly appreciated.
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Try testing the polarity of the bulb/Toshiba socket to find the positive contact (9V battery and two leads works fine for this). Starting at your #3 arrow and working right, the positive contact should be top, top, right, right, bottom, bottom. I had the same problem with the non-functional panel at first. The plugs (1&2) had not gone in all the way on my first attempt. I lined them up more carefully on the second attempt and everything worked fine. I hope this helps.
Thanks for the feedback. I will need to test the polarity on my next attempt with the new LED bulbs. In the mean-time, I reverted everything to original (in an attempt to troubleshoot) and after multiple attempts over a couple of hours, it all came up... a ding followed by a lit instrumental panel. On one side of the panel I was able to seat the plug by hand by reaching in then screwing it owing to the longer cable connection. For this side, I was certain it was securely sat. On the other side (left side) it took multiple attempts to actually seat it right. RELIEF! at the end of the day.
I need to rest up, work on other priority items before I again try to replace the bulbs. Going in though, I hope to have better luck with the experience I got on the first round
Thanks again for the valuable feedback. Round 2 attempt soon.
Hi All,
I need help on figuring out what's going on with my cluster. So I changed out the backlight of the cluster to LED and replaced all the gear indicator to new regular bulbs since my "D" bulb has been out since I've owned the truck. At the same time I did this, I switched out my leather shifter & steering wheel with newly re-wrapped shifter and wheel. As I'm putting everything back, I had to screw on and off the cluster numerous times since, every single time I've tried screwing it back on, a light may not be working that I may have to move the cluster a certain angle for it to work. I know both connectors at the rear of the cluster is tightly connected onto the cluster.
So here's my issue.....After numerous attempts I thought I had everything good to go and all the lights are turning on as they should. I have put everything back (cluster, steering wheel, airbag, dash etc) and I noticed that the "PWR" light is not turning when button is pressed. I also see that the brake light is constantly on even after releasing the e-brake and fluid is at max. So I drove it for a couple of miles and now the check engine light turns on. I haven't had a chance to see what code it's throwing out but wanted to see if anybody has experienced the same thing or if someone may have an idea what's going on? Replacing LED's on my 80 was so easy that I didn't expect this change on the 100 to be such a PITA.
Thank you for anyone's input if any.
Gino
I need help on figuring out what's going on with my cluster. So I changed out the backlight of the cluster to LED and replaced all the gear indicator to new regular bulbs since my "D" bulb has been out since I've owned the truck. At the same time I did this, I switched out my leather shifter & steering wheel with newly re-wrapped shifter and wheel. As I'm putting everything back, I had to screw on and off the cluster numerous times since, every single time I've tried screwing it back on, a light may not be working that I may have to move the cluster a certain angle for it to work. I know both connectors at the rear of the cluster is tightly connected onto the cluster.
So here's my issue.....After numerous attempts I thought I had everything good to go and all the lights are turning on as they should. I have put everything back (cluster, steering wheel, airbag, dash etc) and I noticed that the "PWR" light is not turning when button is pressed. I also see that the brake light is constantly on even after releasing the e-brake and fluid is at max. So I drove it for a couple of miles and now the check engine light turns on. I haven't had a chance to see what code it's throwing out but wanted to see if anybody has experienced the same thing or if someone may have an idea what's going on? Replacing LED's on my 80 was so easy that I didn't expect this change on the 100 to be such a PITA.
Thank you for anyone's input if any.
Gino
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I feel your pain...mine started working after almost 30 attempts of caressing the panel and screwing it (no pun intended). Infact I didn't even get to replace the LED's. I put the original bulbs back and just started trying to get it to work again until it did. I will eventually try it out again. Real P.I.T.A. Keep you posted if I find anything worthy of sharing to this regard.
Could you of possibly scratched the circuit board and or interrupted one of the circuits paths? If so you might be able to do a solder bridge. Just a thought.
I doubt it as I was really careful with handling the cluster....lol...a past experience with my 80 thought me a good lesson about this...
Finally fixed it! I just took it apart again and moved it around and bham! Started,working the way it's supposed to!
My 2006 LX has faint green backlighting of the steering wheel controls.
It just dawned on me that my steering wheel controls were unplugged until I added the axxess control box and wired it up. SO.. mine worked for a bit and then didn't work for a few months while I was being lazy. Then I swapped head units again and installed the axxess, now they work fine. Although they're very faint.
Thanks jLB, you made me stop and think about it.
Thanks jLB, you made me stop and think about it.
I read somwhere hat there is a light for the ignition
Anyone know how to replace the bulb if there was one.
was this available on a 1999 lx470? I don't even remember anymore.
Also is any of the panel near the switches for the rear quarter Windows or power mirrors illuminated?
Thanks
Anyone know how to replace the bulb if there was one.
was this available on a 1999 lx470? I don't even remember anymore.
Also is any of the panel near the switches for the rear quarter Windows or power mirrors illuminated?
Thanks
example of ignition switch lighting:
I believe on a LX470 the mirror controls and vent windows are lit, on a TLC it's just the vent windows:
Took apart the
He cluster and replaced some bulbs. Now I can't get my fog light bulb to turn on and also the back light for the cluster is not on. May have to take it apart and play with the connection again. Nothing is as easy as it should be
On the bright side I got the ignition key ring light working and also replaced the bulbs on the power rear quarter window .
He cluster and replaced some bulbs. Now I can't get my fog light bulb to turn on and also the back light for the cluster is not on. May have to take it apart and play with the connection again. Nothing is as easy as it should be
On the bright side I got the ignition key ring light working and also replaced the bulbs on the power rear quarter window .
You did check that this "knob" has a good connection and didn't get moved in the process?
I connected it to check the dimming feature, but I'll double check again. Don't want to take out the entire cluster again.
Still think it's connection on the back of the cluster. Something is not making a good connection. the 2 bolts that connect the instrument cluster to the harness , should it get finger tight?
