LED DRL and Flasher Conversion - No Hyper Flash

binaryaudax

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I had great success pulling the card out of the flasher and filing down the "U" shaped shunt. Un-solder, file down top, bottom and sides, re-solder. No hyper flash, no extra components, no interference... How thin should you go? No idea. Filed till it felt right to me....

A homemade resistor. :D
 
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I wanted the tap flash feature so the filing down of the factory flasher wasn’t in the cards for me.
Got it...I'm pretty dense when it comes to this type of media. I haven't figured out how to post without replying to the last poster. I was looking to add to IHTFP08's options to eliminate hyper flash. Cheers, all! 🍻
 

GXO

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The downside is if you tow you lose the rear tow harness (if factory equipped) use by stepping down from the factory 12-pin to the 8 pin connector in the smart tap.
yeah, forgot the pigtail thing. I meant to add that. I run that setup and it is great minus the no DRL thing.
 
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Thanks for the thread, I ground my flasher down today and it worked like a charm, aside from one of my new rear LED's being DOA.
 
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Grinding the shunt didn't do anything for me and its nearly broken. Just tried a 1Ohm resistor, lowest I had in the pack. Got a single blink haha. I guess ill do 2 1Ohm in parallel and try again.
 

GXO

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When you replace with the resistor, does it end up generating a lot of heat like typical LED load resistors?
Always does...that's what they do.
 
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Can someone clarify what they meant by stating that using the 12 pin to 8 pin adapter affected towing? My 7 pin towing connector still works fine with 4 pin lights. Also I am still looking for a solution so that I have working DRL's again. I didn't want to have to take apart the oem flasher relay to deal with cutting a shunt but if I have to I guess I have to. Where did you wire those risters @newnanarmsco on the Relay or at the lights?
 
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Can someone clarify what they meant by stating that using the 12 pin to 8 pin adapter affected towing? My 7 pin towing connector still works fine with 4 pin lights. Also I am still looking for a solution so that I have working DRL's again. I didn't want to have to take apart the oem flasher relay to deal with cutting a shunt but if I have to I guess I have to. Where did you wire those risters @newnanarmsco on the Relay or at the lights?
I did the resistors on the relay. I tried grinding the shunt down, couldn't make it work. so replaced shunt with 2 resistors in parallel. smallest ones I had were 1ohm so it needed two.
 
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I did the resistors on the relay. I tried grinding the shunt down, couldn't make it work. so replaced shunt with 2 resistors in parallel. smallest ones I had were 1ohm so it needed two.
And that worked fine without the need to do anything else and it didn’t get excessively hot? If so I think I might just grab a few resistors off of Amazon and do the same thing.
 

GXO

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And that worked fine without the need to do anything else and it didn’t get excessively hot? If so I think I might just grab a few resistors off of Amazon and do the same thing.
the smart tap was my route. Needed the harness and pin move and lose DRLs but I drive a 2003 so who cares! haha
 
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And that worked fine without the need to do anything else and it didn’t get excessively hot? If so I think I might just grab a few resistors off of Amazon and do the same thing.
yes I wasted a ton of time grinding. I can't say if they are getting hot since I haven't checked them. I'm not 100% certain of how the module works, but it makes sense to me that they only see current when the turn signals are activated, so heat won't really be an issue in the module. Also some weird reason my hazards don't work now. I know hazards are on a separate circuit. not going to investigate that one much further
 

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