LED DRL and Flasher Conversion - No Hyper Flash (1 Viewer)

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Here's what I've done for DRLs:

I hated the OEM DRLs so I turned them off with techstream(or if you added the SmartTap they turn themselves off.

I followed this video to "hack" the fog lights. I keep the fog light switch on all the time. They turn on automatically when the key is turned on and they turn off when the truck is shut off. Fog lights are now your DRLs, and you can still turn them off if you want to sneak up on people.


So i did smart tap relay for my LED and everything is working fine. Then i tried the above mod to turn my fog lights on without the low beams on and my fog lights stays on even with the engine off and keys out.

Is the smarttap causing this? I know nothing about car electrical.

Thanks
 
THe smarttap won't cause something to stay on, so to say, but will only delivers power. This means where the smart tap is attached gets power from the battery at all times, independent of the ignition switch's position. Do you recall which fuse you tapped?
 
THe smarttap won't cause something to stay on, so to say, but will only delivers power. This means where the smart tap is attached gets power from the battery at all times, independent of the ignition switch's position. Do you recall which fuse you tapped?
Thank you for getting back. I have a 2004 gx and next to my rear seat heater fuse is a green relay that is in the way and cant get a the fuse tap to fit. So i tried several other fuse thinking they are power only when engine is on. I tried tapping fuse 9 - cds fan, 10 - RR AC, 41- towing and 42 - radio no 2.

All of them kept the fog light on after engine was off and keys out. I even waited couple minutes after engine off to see if it woud automacically turn off like low beamz
 
Thank you for getting back. I have a 2004 gx and next to my rear seat heater fuse is a green relay that is in the way and cant get a the fuse tap to fit. So i tried several other fuse thinking they are power only when engine is on. I tried tapping fuse 9 - cds fan, 10 - RR AC, 41- towing and 42 - radio no 2.

All of them kept the fog light on after engine was off and keys out. I even waited couple minutes after engine off to see if it woud automacically turn off like low beamz
Sounds like whatever fuse you tapped in to is a constant power instead of a ignition power. Get your volt meter out and double check the fuses aren't hot without the key in.
 
Sounds like whatever fuse you tapped in to is a constant power instead of a ignition power. Get your volt meter out and double check the fuses aren't hot without the key in.
Good suggestion, thanks!! Ill give that a try.

Also, does it matter which prong i bent back on the fog light fuse? I bent the same one as in the video

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If you bent the same one as a the video, you should be fine. Technically speaking, it does matter as to which one to bend (or use).
 
I went in to do some superbright led's on my flashers on my 04 GX today. Super bright sold me an LED relay that was supposedly plug and play, but is clearly the same module form factor as the smart tap. Going to try out the harness adapter with this relay and see if that works. Maybe I'll do the smart tap down the road.

Also, I trued installing LED tail lights which did not work on the GX. The would not stay reliably illuminated and seemed like they required resistors or something to work properly. I had a similar issue on my FJ80. Something about those 2 state tail lights don't work well in land cruisers!
 
Damn now it’s not starting. Just clicking and no crank.

UPDATE: Just a dead battery. I guess I left the door open too long or something.
UPDATE 2: Wiring harness received. Moving the pin over was very easy.
 
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I want to convert my DRL and reverse lights to LED. And keep the DRLs functioning. It looks like I need to replace both front and rear turn signals with LED bulbs and replace the shunt with the correct size resistor.

Are the DRL and front turn signals the same actual bulbs? Or the same type but two physically separate bulbs? I've seen conflicting information that the DRL/turn signals are the same, but one video showed 3 different bulbs (turn signal, DRL, and side marker) It looks like 1156 bulbs but do I need one or two sets for the front? I'd go look but not in front of the vehicle.

Rear turn signals and the reverse lights appear to be 7440 type.
 
Headlight housings have 5 bulbs:

Hi beam
Low beam
Amber Parking
White parking
Blinker / DRL (same bulb does both)
Thanks. So the 1156 replacement for the turn signals, is the DRL. Trying to get a set ordered this weekend for memorial day sales.
 
Thanks. Replaced both sets of turn signals, reverse lights, and low beams with LEDs. Now it looks like I need to find the flasher module and get the resistor added in.
 
Thanks. Replaced both sets of turn signals, reverse lights, and low beams with LEDs. Now it looks like I need to find the flasher module and get the resistor added in.
or get the smart tap relay and swap it out. One wire repin and you lose DRLs but you don't have to add a resistor that gets so hot that you think the truck will burn down lol
 
or get the smart tap relay and swap it out. One wire repin and you lose DRLs but you don't have to add a resistor that gets so hot that you think the truck will burn down lol
The downside is if you tow you lose the rear tow harness (if factory equipped) use by stepping down from the factory 12-pin to the 8 pin connector in the smart tap.
 
The downside is if you tow you lose the rear tow harness (if factory equipped) use by stepping down from the factory 12-pin to the 8 pin connector in the smart tap.
Do you have experience with this? The 7 pin at the back of the truck still works fine when using it as a 4 pin and I have a tap turn installed. Do you mean the tow harness in the dash that goes to a brake controller? I personally have not used that part
 
Do you have experience with this? The 7 pin at the back of the truck still works fine when using it as a 4 pin and I have a tap turn installed. Do you mean the tow harness in the dash that goes to a brake controller? I personally have not used that part

That was my understanding. I didn’t tow anything with my 470 before I sold it or with my 460 since I made a custom harness to use the smart tap. I should see if I can text it out because we are about to buy or build a trailer.
 
That was my understanding. I didn’t tow anything with my 470 before I sold it or with my 460 since I made a custom harness to use the smart tap. I should see if I can text it out because we are about to buy or build a trailer.
I had great success pulling the card out of the flasher and filing down the "U" shaped shunt. Un-solder, file down top, bottom and sides, re-solder. No hyper flash, no extra components, no interference... How thin should you go? No idea. Filed till it felt right to me....
 
I had great success pulling the card out of the flasher and filing down the "U" shaped shunt. Un-solder, file down top, bottom and sides, re-solder. No hyper flash, no extra components, no interference... How thin should you go? No idea. Filed till it felt right to me....
I wanted the tap flash feature so the filing down of the factory flasher wasn’t in the cards for me.
 

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