LC80 1FZ-FE timing problem

[blinkerfluid]

Hello everyone.. need your help:

Just finished working on a LC80 with 1FZ-FE engine.

It needed new O2 sensors, TPS, VAF and IACV.. along with a PCV, dizzy cap/rotor and new plugs.. got the injectors ultrasonic cleaned. Renewed all vacuum lines, cleaned the intake manifold(s) - replaced all fuel pipes as well - throttle body's plate had to be remade as well and adjusted the TPS and dashpot to specs.

now with everything good, it started it up real nice but idled like **** and the throttle response was very poor - so I thought I may have done something wrong and checked all the vacuum lines and intake leaks etc and found nothing. Then I checked the timing as mentioned in the FSM and found it to be running at 16 BTDC

Tried correcting and it wouldn't go below 15 - removed the dizzy and adjusted to spec - then tried adjusting to 3deg BTDC as per FSM and it would pop and idle bad with no throttle response. Finally I got 'some' balanced performance at 9deg BTDC and I have set it there for now but its running very poorly.

and I need to correct this - I assume I have to confirm the compression timing and if the timing chain is good/has no slack/fitted correctly/timing marks align, right? Where else to look?

 

[blkprj80]

Did you have the jumper on the diagnostic connector?

If you did, then you may have a distributor that is off by one tooth.

Good Luck with it!

 

[blinkerfluid]

yes I did have the jumper and yes the dizzy was off by one tooth. .I think it was fitted that way deliberately to mask some problems which im now facing

I fit the dizzy correctly, problem is that it just won't run at 3 deg btdc..I have tried everything possible with the dizzy

 

[blinkerfluid]

is it possible that the timing chain hasn't been installed correctly? or the timing chain has elongated beyond limit and is causing havoc?

 

[blinkerfluid]

anyone?

 

[half k cruiser]

How high is your idle speed when you are adjusting ? It should be around 600-800 rpm.

 

[blinkerfluid]

at 3 degree btdc it idles less than 400 rpm and it bucks and misses a lot.

it is now running at 9 deg btdc but running cap

doesn't rev over 2k rpm in D and doesn't pull good. .

is there anything else I should into?
it was running slightly better than this before all the work but it was running at 16 degree btdc... now out doesn't even run good at 16 deg...

could this be a fuel pressure issue? I want to rule out every option before I dismantle the valve cover to check timing

 

[blinkerfluid]

right now at 9 degrees it is at around 550 rpm

 

[ppc]

Have you verified that each of the plug wires are in the proper position and order on the distributor cap?

 

[blinkerfluid]

yes I did but I will do that again tomorrow morning

 

[Howard705]

With a plug wire wrong- 2 would be wrong and feel it firing on only 4. Still wouldn't change timing if #1 is right.. Thought jumpered was at base timing and rpm shouldn't matter-no computer advance this way. Will it run right advanced way back up?

 

[blinkerfluid]

nope it doesn't run right advanced


I will check the plug cables tomorrow along with fuel pressure and ignition coil

if the above checkout fine then will remove the valve cover and check compression timing

 

[blinkerfluid]

okay i checked fuel pressure and it was within range

there was a tps misjudgment problem which has been solved

will check compression timing tomorrow

another thing to note is that when checking timing without e1 and te1 jumped.. the timing doesn't vary as stated in the manual, what could be it?

 

[freshspecbluegt]

Did you check the rubber intake hose for cracks? Unmetered air coming in through the hose can cause all kinds of problems, very common for these to crack as they harden with age.

 

[blkprj80]

okay i checked fuel pressure and it was within range

there was a tps misjudgment problem which has been solved

will check compression timing tomorrow

another thing to note is that when checking timing without e1 and te1 jumped.. the timing doesn't vary as stated in the manual, what could be it?

Knock sensor? If it senses a knock, it goes to base timing (or stays there).
Maybe yours thinks it's knocking all the time?

 

[blinkerfluid]

mine is indeed knocking when throttle is blipped

 

[blinkerfluid]

update



the car runs slightly better now

I found a vacuum leak which has been fixed now, it was the intake manifold so took some time

the engine is idling at 600 rpm at 3 btdc but it's not smooth.. bad throttle response.. bogs down at throttle blip and one of the cylinders knock as well.

compression is good on all cylinders 210 to 220 psi.


I checked the valve clearances in the morning when the engine was dead cold. . all intake valves clearances are tighter than spec while the exhaust are within range but still on the tighter side, would this be a cause of my problems? im going to do the clearances tomorrow in any case but let's say this doesn't solve the problems. . what other things I'm looking at.. including electrical and mechanical?

plus if someone can guide move how to adjust the AFM I would really appreciate

 

[bryson]

Have you checked the air intake hose as mentioned above?

 

[blinkerfluid]

yes I've checked and confirmed using another intake pipe that the intake hose isn't leaking

 

[Chester]

Not familiar with that engine (yet, legal import to U.S.A. begins soon), but I'd make sure the distributor shaft is in at the right spot. Usually TDC compression #1. Make sure compression #1, cam is 2/1 ratio, might be on the exhaust stroke.