I'm somewhat mechanically inclined but have very little hands-on experience with auto mechanics. Knowing this, I (some might say stupidly) decided to take it on myself to do the work Toyota Service told me about on my 90K mile 2014 Land Cruiser. It ended up being almost more than I bargained for.
Issues Toyota Service Told Me about: Cracked radiator - needed replacement. They recommended also - That I replace the water pump and the tensioner pulley. My trying this job myself, and breaking several things in the process - here is where my journey took me:
Replaced:
Radiator
Fan Shroud
Thermostat
Water Pump
A/C Compressor
Tensioner Pulley
Serpentine/Drive Belt
Timing Chain Cover (!)
Oil Filter Housing
Valve Cover Gaskets
A bunch of different seals and flange bolts
The radiator had the typical fault - hairline crack that had sprayed coolant in the entire engine bay. I'm glad I had service scheduled because I hadn't noticed. Ordering the radiator, water pump and tensioner pulley was all I had on my list. And that's when it became more involved.
My Mistakes:
1. Underestimating the time it would take me. Big time.
2. Believing I had all the right tools. (I did not - I do now)
3. Broke the fan shroud trying to yank it out with the radiator.
4. While trying to get to the water pump - I was trying to loosen the metal oil hoses - there is a small bolt that is hard to get to next to the AC Compressor. While trying to loosen it, I decided to tryand get the pulley off - and didn't have pin pliers. I tried to yank the ring out and snapped off the end of the nose of the compressor. No way to fix it. So new compressor, new freon charge for a stupid mistake.
5. While installing the water pump, I thought I had the torque wrench set properly (first time using a torque wrench). I did not. I snapped a flange bolt off inside the timing chain cover - one of the 3 bolts on the water housing inlet on the water pump. Extraction attempts didn't work after HOURS of trying. The hardened steel bolt next to the soft aluminum was very difficult to work with. I ended up slipping the bit past the broken bolt and drilling a hole into the timing chain cover through to the timing chain area. Not knowing what to do, I decided to patch the area with metal filler and seal with RTV. Have one less bolt and hope for the best. I reassembled everything. The truck started up after a few sputters....and then was driving ok I thought. Drove 7 miles watching the temp gauge. Then it climbed to the red level and I stopped and saw A LOT of coolant leaking out from the water pump area. Crap. Limped home to the garage. Reviewed the FSM in detail and a lot of Youtube videos. Rather than have it towed to someone who knows what they are doing - I doubled down. Ordered a new Timing chain cover, all the seals, etc. Bought the right tools, studied a bunch and went to work.
6. Stripped a bolt hole in the NEW timing chain cover when I reinstalled some new bolts in the water housing inlet - with air ratchet. Only meant to get it close and then use torque wrench but got too close! It went soft and just turned. Pulled out bolt and it has aluminum on the threads. CRUD. So I drilled and tapped the hole and used a helicoil with red threadlocker and it worked perfectly. No issue getting to torque spec.
7. Did a full oil change. Broke the oil housing cap trying to get it off with a breaker bar and a proper oil filter wrench - it was super tight. Had to order a new housing.
8. When reinstalling the valve cover gaskets I did not set them with sealant - this is not done at factory but some recommend it. The gasket sits inside a groove in the cover. While reinstalling one of them - I must not have seen it but the gasket came loose in the back out of sight. When tightening the bolts - the gasket was cut in the rear. Not knowing this - I got everything put together - car started fine - major oil leak from rear of engine cover. I saw my mistake, ordered all new seals and gaskets, and set and installed properly.
9. Did an oil and filter change after this. I had recycled the old oil in an original Mobil 1 5 qt jug. It was late and it was dark. Instead of using the NEW oil - I poured the old, contaminated oil into the reservoir. Dumb. So Dumb. A second drain of oil, filter change, and a third 5qt jug of 0W-20 to be purchased.
Fully detailed and degreased the engine compartment. Have about 100 miles in and the truck is running as good as ever. Level temperatures, coolant and oil levels, and no error lights. It was a big job, made much bigger from my lack of experience and 'bull in a china shop" way of doing things sometimes.
Here are things I had or bought that would make a job like this easier if anyone is going to take on something similar.
- The Full J200 FSM. Thanks to LinuxGod for providing.
- Nitrile gloves - I used mechanixwear too - but for feeling bolts and hand tightening - the thin nitrile is great.
- Both a short and Deep Socket set (metric) was needed. Some of the areas there is so little room to get in there - and some nuts you need the deep socket.
- Multiple adapters and several long socket extensions.
- A collapsible magnetic wand was critical - I dropped several bolts and sockets down below and needed this to retrieve them sometimes blindly.
- A creeper was essential.
- I bought 2 LED work lights that had a magnetic bottom and articulating arm. Super helpful to have these! Cheap on Amazon.
- A set of hose clamp pliers. Made working with the many clamps much easier than just a wrench or vise grips.
- An air Ratchet was very helpful on stuck bolts and was fast. Be careful not to use to tighten bolts - easy to go past torque spec by accident.
All in all - I was able to do most of the work late at night after family was in bed. I got through some audio books I had been meaning to listen too. Had more late night wine than I had planned on with some High Noons thrown in. But I learned a ton in the process, increased my mechanical confidence, worked through frustrations and challenges, and am happy with the final product - a drivable LC. This isn't a How To post (more of a how-not-to) but PM me if you have any questions on what I learned - to do and NOT do.
Cheers, Mudders.
Chris
Issues Toyota Service Told Me about: Cracked radiator - needed replacement. They recommended also - That I replace the water pump and the tensioner pulley. My trying this job myself, and breaking several things in the process - here is where my journey took me:
Replaced:
Radiator
Fan Shroud
Thermostat
Water Pump
A/C Compressor
Tensioner Pulley
Serpentine/Drive Belt
Timing Chain Cover (!)
Oil Filter Housing
Valve Cover Gaskets
A bunch of different seals and flange bolts
The radiator had the typical fault - hairline crack that had sprayed coolant in the entire engine bay. I'm glad I had service scheduled because I hadn't noticed. Ordering the radiator, water pump and tensioner pulley was all I had on my list. And that's when it became more involved.
My Mistakes:
1. Underestimating the time it would take me. Big time.
2. Believing I had all the right tools. (I did not - I do now)
3. Broke the fan shroud trying to yank it out with the radiator.
4. While trying to get to the water pump - I was trying to loosen the metal oil hoses - there is a small bolt that is hard to get to next to the AC Compressor. While trying to loosen it, I decided to tryand get the pulley off - and didn't have pin pliers. I tried to yank the ring out and snapped off the end of the nose of the compressor. No way to fix it. So new compressor, new freon charge for a stupid mistake.
5. While installing the water pump, I thought I had the torque wrench set properly (first time using a torque wrench). I did not. I snapped a flange bolt off inside the timing chain cover - one of the 3 bolts on the water housing inlet on the water pump. Extraction attempts didn't work after HOURS of trying. The hardened steel bolt next to the soft aluminum was very difficult to work with. I ended up slipping the bit past the broken bolt and drilling a hole into the timing chain cover through to the timing chain area. Not knowing what to do, I decided to patch the area with metal filler and seal with RTV. Have one less bolt and hope for the best. I reassembled everything. The truck started up after a few sputters....and then was driving ok I thought. Drove 7 miles watching the temp gauge. Then it climbed to the red level and I stopped and saw A LOT of coolant leaking out from the water pump area. Crap. Limped home to the garage. Reviewed the FSM in detail and a lot of Youtube videos. Rather than have it towed to someone who knows what they are doing - I doubled down. Ordered a new Timing chain cover, all the seals, etc. Bought the right tools, studied a bunch and went to work.
6. Stripped a bolt hole in the NEW timing chain cover when I reinstalled some new bolts in the water housing inlet - with air ratchet. Only meant to get it close and then use torque wrench but got too close! It went soft and just turned. Pulled out bolt and it has aluminum on the threads. CRUD. So I drilled and tapped the hole and used a helicoil with red threadlocker and it worked perfectly. No issue getting to torque spec.
7. Did a full oil change. Broke the oil housing cap trying to get it off with a breaker bar and a proper oil filter wrench - it was super tight. Had to order a new housing.
8. When reinstalling the valve cover gaskets I did not set them with sealant - this is not done at factory but some recommend it. The gasket sits inside a groove in the cover. While reinstalling one of them - I must not have seen it but the gasket came loose in the back out of sight. When tightening the bolts - the gasket was cut in the rear. Not knowing this - I got everything put together - car started fine - major oil leak from rear of engine cover. I saw my mistake, ordered all new seals and gaskets, and set and installed properly.
9. Did an oil and filter change after this. I had recycled the old oil in an original Mobil 1 5 qt jug. It was late and it was dark. Instead of using the NEW oil - I poured the old, contaminated oil into the reservoir. Dumb. So Dumb. A second drain of oil, filter change, and a third 5qt jug of 0W-20 to be purchased.
Fully detailed and degreased the engine compartment. Have about 100 miles in and the truck is running as good as ever. Level temperatures, coolant and oil levels, and no error lights. It was a big job, made much bigger from my lack of experience and 'bull in a china shop" way of doing things sometimes.
Here are things I had or bought that would make a job like this easier if anyone is going to take on something similar.
- The Full J200 FSM. Thanks to LinuxGod for providing.
- Nitrile gloves - I used mechanixwear too - but for feeling bolts and hand tightening - the thin nitrile is great.
- Both a short and Deep Socket set (metric) was needed. Some of the areas there is so little room to get in there - and some nuts you need the deep socket.
- Multiple adapters and several long socket extensions.
- A collapsible magnetic wand was critical - I dropped several bolts and sockets down below and needed this to retrieve them sometimes blindly.
- A creeper was essential.
- I bought 2 LED work lights that had a magnetic bottom and articulating arm. Super helpful to have these! Cheap on Amazon.
- A set of hose clamp pliers. Made working with the many clamps much easier than just a wrench or vise grips.
- An air Ratchet was very helpful on stuck bolts and was fast. Be careful not to use to tighten bolts - easy to go past torque spec by accident.
All in all - I was able to do most of the work late at night after family was in bed. I got through some audio books I had been meaning to listen too. Had more late night wine than I had planned on with some High Noons thrown in. But I learned a ton in the process, increased my mechanical confidence, worked through frustrations and challenges, and am happy with the final product - a drivable LC. This isn't a How To post (more of a how-not-to) but PM me if you have any questions on what I learned - to do and NOT do.
Cheers, Mudders.
Chris
. Keep at it and it gets easier.
