Builds Layonnn's 100 series build

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You plan to remove this? :D

Seriously. Looks good. I'm under 6/32 of the tire tread. I might go for BFG.

Im sorry for the thread jack, but what exactly is the purpose of that part???
Ive been watching it under my 95 series and cant figure it out...

Excellent build. Hope I could get my hands on one of those light bars!
 
Im sorry for the thread jack, but what exactly is the purpose of that part???
Ive been watching it under my 95 series and cant figure it out...

Parking curb feeler for the mall?

Sorry Layton, I couldn't resist. Everyone knows they're aren't any malls in Louisiana anyway! :hillbilly:
 
It looks like your winch is smoking in that pic.
 
Parking curb feeler for the mall?

Sorry Layton, I couldn't resist. Everyone knows they're aren't any malls in Louisiana anyway! :hillbilly:


LOL, I meant the post from dfrelich, post # 10. The pic wont attach to the quote! Rubber OEM thingy attached to the frame???
 
I would be interested to get your opinon on the alu hawse you have and how it works for you as I have the same bumper on order and have been told that if you are winching at extreme angles the rope could touch the bumper so you need to space out the hawse.

Yours does not seem to be spaced out to the point a std roller and cable would be to clear the bumper.

Does your front number plate just clip on and off?

Hope this makes sense.

I like it and haven't had any problems. Where we wheel, there are lots of trees. As in most wheeling is a lot of tree dodging. So getting a straight line pull is rarely an issue. If you are pulling at extreme upward angles, i could see how there might be an issue. This is due to the hawse being recessed. If i ever do notice it becoming a problem, there is a vendor on fjcruiserforums.com that custom makes some aluminum parts. I would just get him to make me a much thicker hawse fairlead. But i don't for see it being an issue.
You could alleviate this problem by running a roller fairlead with delrin rollers instead of steel.

No front license plates are required in Louisiana.

Im sorry for the thread jack, but what exactly is the purpose of that part???
Ive been watching it under my 95 series and cant figure it out...

Excellent build. Hope I could get my hands on one of those light bars!

Thanks.
Another member posted a link, but it is a harmonic dampener Toyota placed on the frame to reduce noise.

Parking curb feeler for the mall?

Sorry Layton, I couldn't resist. Everyone knows they're aren't any malls in Louisiana anyway! :hillbilly:

Haha. We do have a couple big malls, i have been told.

It looks like your winch is smoking in that pic.

Yeah i didn't notice that artifact until i was loading my pics on the computer. I think it was a reflection in the lens from the light ccoming off the ground. Kind of a weird effect.

Can you post a front shot with the LED light bar in the new location? Also, care to provide any feedback on the Titan T12?

Will get that up sometime soon.

I had to use the TW12 in a couple spots at Superlift. One was a very muddy hill climb that i just could not get enough traction or speed to get up, it performed well there.
Second was getting over a very off camber rock ledge where my back PS tire was in some very loose dirt right on the edge of a drop off. It performed well there as well aiding me to get over that rock.

Hopefully i won't be needing to use the winch near as much when the 100 gets back from the shop with front and rear lockers :)
 
Cruiser is still at the gear shop.
Front and rear gear and locker install (just the axles, compressor, hose routing, wiring all done by me) should have been a 2, 2.5 days job. It is now a week and a half later. Dropped off monday morning, called afternoon Thursday to see what the hold up was, they said they were just finishing the rear axle (4th day of having the vehicle) and that they hadn't started on the front, but it didn't look like it was going to be finished by the weekend. Before i dropped the 100 off they said they would for sure have it done before the weekend.

Called Monday afternoon to see how it was doing and they told me they had these other transmission jobs come in and they "had" to get those finished and that my front diff was difficult to get the spacing right but that it would be finished Tuesday.

Still no call as of late today (Tuesday), so i call them to see how its coming along. Some other jobs at their shop came up and those "had" to be taken care of as he was "loosing money" on those jobs some how. So i ask "Well do you think you will have it finished tomorrow?". Same answer i have heard every day, "Mayyyyyybeeeee, we got a lot of stuff going on in the shop and that front diff is difficult to setup".

My Father has had this shop setup his Mustangs and other cars that he has restored and recommended them. Their shop is also right down the street from my Dad's shop. So i gave my Dad a call to let him know what was going on and why i still hadn't returned his Jeep he let me borrow. He went over and talked to the owner.

Just a little frustrating...
 
Man, that story would make me nervous. I might heavily consider moving the job if I were you. That's a lot of expensive parts and a nice 100 you do not want to potentially damage.
 
Layton, when they do get it done only pay half the bill and tell them "I had a couple more important bills come in, I'll pay you the rest in a couple days.............................maybe"
 
As long as the work is solid and price is reasonable, I wouldn't push it.

I haven't driven my 100 for about a month now because I'm waiting for it to get done. I'm in the same boat but I'm focused on the "end state."

Just my $.02
 
Layton, when they do get it done only pay half the bill and tell them "I had a couple more important bills come in, I'll pay you the rest in a couple days.............................maybe"

Hahaha.

I think he has the front setup already, and just needs to reassemble and drill and tap the housing. So taking it somewhere else wouldn't really be an option.
They do perform good work. Gear setups are the majority of their business. Its not an offroad shop that occasionally does gears.

I might have been fine if from the beginning they told me it would take a week and a half-2 weeks. But when someone says it will for sure be done by the end of the week, i.e. 5 days, and the reason its not done is because other jobs came into their shop after mine, that is kind of aggravating. Thats all :)

I just hope that it is finished tomorrow. I have already made plan to help install a winch on my buddies FJC with him at my dads shop. That is when i was planning on finishing the compressor install and reinstalling my dual battery setup.
 
Was hoping to see you at the Roundup this week Layton; I'll be there.
 
I am not sure, but what is the purpose of the extended sway bar links? MAF - man-a-fre?
 
Was hoping to see you at the Roundup this week Layton; I'll be there.

I do really want to make a trip to Katemcy, but the Roundup is pricey and no dogs are allowed at Katemcy. How many times have you seen me with out Roux, Lee? hahaha. Let me know how the trails look out at K2.

I am not sure, but what is the purpose of the extended sway bar links? MAF - man-a-fre?

When you lift, the sway bar gets a little out of OEM alignment. Extended sway bar links let you get it more horizontal, and it doesn't pull so much at full droop. I don't think it affects up travel very much. And my sway link bushings were looking a little worn. I also noticed on my 80 that the sway bar, without extended sway links, would occasionally make a little contact with my shocks and rubber the paint a little bit.


100 is back from the gear shop. 4.88s and ARBs are in.
Last night i was helping Hodges install his new winch into his demello bumper. Then 123Robertelee came over to help with my compressor install.

photo-4.jpg


Before i dropped the truck off, i had made a compressor mount that fit between the headlight and airbox. I used some flat stock, sheet steel, and the bracket included with the compressor to make the mount. So far, the only problem with it is that the bolts slightly push up on the airbox. So, i kind of had to push the side of the airbox a little to get the cover to sit flush, it was off a few mm. Its all wired up, hoses are routed, i just need to figure out how to get the 10 plugs that go to the two ARB switches (FR RR) to work with the only 3 plugs coming off the back of the OEM 80 locker switch.

Any suggestions?:)

Here is the compressor location i used. The thing facing the camera is the air hose connector. Does anyone know how to remove that big silver collar that is on there? I am assuming it is just to make detaching the hose easier, but i find it unnecessary.

photo-1-3.jpg


photo-2-1.jpg
 
as far as the collars, rotate them opposite each other and then it will slide right off.

btw... you mentioned MAF - for where you purchased the sway bar links... is that man-a-fre? and are these 100 links?

Also, can you take some more pics of how you mounted your compressor there? I can't imagine how i'd get it to fit there. It'll definitely be tough to remove the headlight bulb cover if the compressor is situated there.
 
Yes I did pick the links up from man a fre. They don't have a 100 link, I bought the 80 link. Don't remember which year 80 it is, but just take a look for the one that looks like my picture.

Also, this is the best pic I have to show what I did. The plate on the right was a little less beefy than I wanted so I welded the included plate bracket that comes with the compressor to the bracket I made. It's pretty sturdy for the weight of the compressor. You can see the two bolt holes I used to the left, there is a piece of rubber about 1/8" thick between the bracket and the body. For the mounting hole closer to the radiator, the body has a dip of about 1.5". To accommodate that, I welded 2 large nuts together and to the bracket, and then welded a wide washer under that to distribute the force better. Then I just drilled my holes to mount the compressor to the bracket, test fitted, then painted. Welds look kinda poopy, I'm getting better. There was plenty of penetration and it is fully welded all over. Probably too much, ha, but it gives me more practice.

Chris, I'm not positive if the icon on the OEM switch illuminates, but there is a little light under the icon that does illuminate when it's turned on. I now plan on using the ARB compressor switch with the OEM 80 locker switch. I will replace my LED light bar switch with the OEM switch though.
image-263074187.jpg
 
Update time:
Rear air locker has a leak inside the housing. Trying to find a good time for the shop that installed them to take it apart and fix it.

Brakes started to squeal so ordered some new OEM pads. I might go ahead and order new rotors front and rear as well. This will save me down time from having to take them to get turned and possibly having them not be able to be re-used. If they can be re-used, i can just put them on the shelf until i need to turn the new ones. Also picked up a TEQ oil filler cap.

Replaced primary battery with a Diehard Platinum 35 series.

FJoel matte green battery clamp for my Optima Yellow Top auxiliary battery.

Bump-It Offroad rear bumper with dual swing outs ordered, put in my deposit today. Will have tire carrier on PS side and dual jerry can carrier on the driver side.
This is MXNDRNKS rear bumper. It will be similar to this but it will have just the can carrier on the DS, no ladder. Im tall, i dont need no ladder to reach the roof :)
Thumbnail shows Brocks bumper that has the type of gas carrier i ordered (but on the high clearance bumper)

etbrwx.jpg
 

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