Large scale rust removal (1 Viewer)

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Oct 14, 2004
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Location
Meridian, ID
At the urging of my friend Coolerman, I'm posting what I am doing to my tub. I used his methodology for electrolytic rust removal on some items on my build up last year and liked how effective it was. So, I decided to up the scale and do my tub.

Here is Coolerman's web site where he posted some pictures I sent him and he did a pretty darn good write up too -----> www.globalsoftware-inc.com/coolerman/fj40/rustremovalfj40tank.htm Thanks Coolerman.

If anyone wants to do this and has questions they can PM me.

:grinpimp:
electro2.jpg
electro1.JPG
 
Rust rmvl

You are correct. Some rust spcts will have to be cut out and replaced. I will probably sand blast some parts that I can't dip. The rust drops off the metal into the bottom of the tank. Some goes into solution (the water is looking real rusty right now). As far as rust removal this works pretty darn good. :D
 
Somehow I totally missed this thread! I added an after pic to the web site that Chaunce sent me plus attached it here.

For the record the de-rusting process can save hours of grinding or blasting. It causes semi attached rust to just fall off and firmly adhered rust is converted to a form of rust that is hard and inert. Very little prep will be needed to prime. Just a bit of light sanding or wire wheeling to smooth the surface a bit. I de-rust ALL my parts just to reduce the dust level in the garage from sanding.
rust removed.jpg
 
OK what about the paint? Does it flake off the paint also or ONLY the rust? Are you left with an almost ready to prime surface?
 
If there is rust UNDER the paint then the paint lifts and comes off in sheets. Multiple layers of non OEM paint usually lift. OEM paint that is firmly adhered will NOT lift.

Check out my web site for all kinds of de-rusting pics of smaller parts off the Cruiser.
 
If there is rust UNDER the paint then the paint lifts and comes off in sheets. Multiple layers of non OEM paint usually lift. OEM paint that is firmly adhered will NOT lift.

Check out my web site for all kinds of de-rusting pics of smaller parts off the Cruiser.

I have used this process extensively for small parts and would agree with Coolerman. This process is a lot less messy than sandblasting and less noisy than other tools. I am able to remove rust and paint with tools like a wire wheel and brush. I use the angle grinder less now that I de-scale with electrolysis. I am using a 5 gallon bucket for 95% of my descaling. Since I rarely have entire afternoons or days to wrench on my rig, this process suits me well. You can let small parts sit for 6-10 hours, pull them, lightly brush them off and flip them if necessary. They are ready the next day to be wiped dry and hit with the wire wheel. I usually coat parts with 2-3 layers of SEM rust inhibitor afterwards.

I should add that I have a pressure blaster for sandblasting, but not a cabinet. I suppose a cabinet would go a long way to keep debris down in my garage.

FWIW...Doing a whole tub seems like a lot of fun....but at that size I think sandblasting might make more sense. At that level of electrolysis you have costs associated with wood, liner and electricity. Might be easier to bring it elsewhere.
 
wow, very cool indeed!

Question: so is this process only good to remove loose rust OR will it remove thick undercoating, etc?


Noah.....I rehabilitated a FJ60 donor axle for my disc brake swap. The process made my parts look pretty....but not as pretty as yours.

regarding your question above, if there is rust underneath the undercoating...then electrolysis will lift everything off. I find that 60-80% of paint and coatings are removed by this process.
 
would it remove paint and undercoating on a non rusted metal surface?? or only on the rusted surfaces?

Wow, great thread.

If your looking to get undercoating removed, look in your area for a dry ice blaster - dry ice pellets instead of sand or other media. Removes rust and paint as well. Once your done with the blasting, the media evaporates...the only mess to clean up is the paint and scale.

This is the how the military is stripping paint of planes these days. If you can find a local shop that does it, it's great.

Also, lots of undercoating has asbestos in it. If the stuff is still sticky, it's not that dangerouse but if it's dried out, it is.

-Stumbaugh
 
I should add that I have a pressure blaster for sandblasting, but not a cabinet. I suppose a cabinet would go a long way to keep debris down in my garage.

I got one of the cheaper Harbor Freight cabinets and modified it so it actually worked properly. This involved caulking EVERY seam (if you don't it leaks badly), adding a light to the inside, replacing the gun and pickup it came with with a Campbell Hausfield gun with replaceable tips (Harbor Freight never has their tips in stock...), and finally added a 2" vac adapter so I can use the shop vac to catch the dust. I then mounted a large blower fan from an AC unit on a shelf under a window so it exhausts any dust that escapes the vac. I also do any grinding or wire wheeling of parts in this area. My shop is SO much cleaner now!
 

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