LandTank's Seat Rail Extension (1 Viewer)

[Filmpros]

I just returned from a trip to see Landtank. He installed his 80 Series Seat Extensions on my 1997 Lexus LX-450.

I have to say, he did a great job and I am impressed by the innovative engineering and the superb quality of his product. These extensions are one solid piece of metal and they are clearly far stronger than any component on the seat itself.

Rick is a great guy and a truly dedicated Cruiser aficionado. I can't thank him enough for designing and installing these seat rail extensions. I only wish he made one for the 100 Series now.

As far as the result? What a difference..!!! I have both a 2006 LC 100 Series and this 97 Lexus LX-450 80 Series in my driveway.

In all honesty, I am more comfortable now in the Lexus 80 Series than I am in my 2006 Land Cruiser. As soon as I jumped behind the wheel of the 100 series I was shocked to see how different it felt. The leg room and comfort of the 80 Series now makes it the first vehicle of choice now when I leave the house.

I gave the 2006 LC to my GF She LOVES this vehicle so she is happy ... as am I. I plan on doing a few mods to the 80 Series ... now that I can drive it comfortably.

Anyone thinking about this should stop thinking about it and just do it. You get more room than you might think based on just the measurements alone. It makes a huge difference.
Rich

 

[DTAYLOR]

I just returned from a trip to see Landtank. He installed his 80 Series Seat Extensions on my 1997 Lexus LX-450.

I have to say, he did a great job and I am impressed by the innovative engineering and the superb quality of his product. These extensions are one solid piece of metal and they are clearly far stronger than any component on the seat itself.

Rick is a great guy and a truly dedicated Cruiser aficionado. I can't thank him enough for designing and installing these seat rail extensions. I only wish he made one for the 100 Series now.

As far as the result? What a difference..!!! I have both a 2006 LC 100 Series and this 97 Lexus LX-450 80 Series in my driveway.

In all honesty, I am more comfortable now in the Lexus 80 Series than I am in my 2006 Land Cruiser. As soon as I jumped behind the wheel of the 100 series I was shocked to see how different it felt. The leg room and comfort of the 80 Series now makes it the first vehicle of choice now when I leave the house.

I gave the 2006 LC to my GF She LOVES this vehicle so she is happy ... as am I. I plan on doing a few mods to the 80 Series ... now that I can drive it comfortably.

Anyone thinking about this should stop thinking about it and just do it. You get more room than you might think based on just the measurements alone. It makes a huge difference.
Rich

Just ordered one. Can't wait to get it. My LC was sitting idle for 10 months while the engine was being overhauled. My first trip in it after it was running, My first thoughts went like this: Wow, great to be in the 80 again, and I really need Rick's seat mod!

Thanks for sharing.

D

 

[Ruadhrigh]

Do the motorized seats not travel as far as the non-motorized?

I'm about 6'1'' and my seat is perfect (all the way back of course)

Or...

Are you guys giants?

 

[Trunk Monkey]

They don't. There's a motor on the seat bottom that won't clear a hump in the floor pan. You can grind the rails and get the seat to move further back without Landtank's mod, but the motor will still hit that hump. His block lifts the seat enough for the motor to clear.

 

[Ruadhrigh]

so the seat extension allows the motorized seats to travel as far back as the non-motorized.

Sweet. Another check against leather seats

 

[landtank]

Sweet. Another check against leather seats

With my mod the motorized seats travel further back.

Check and Mate!

 

[Ruadhrigh]

But for someone who didn't want leather...

there is a better reason than saying it makes my ass sweat. ;p

 

[Filmpros]

I am 6'7" and it is tight in this vehicle without the Seat Mod...it is even a bit tight in my 2006 LC. I guess I fall in to the giant category, but one of the guys who works on my cruiser, who is not as tall as I am (6'3"), is getting a pair as well. He sat in my truck and l loved the extra room.

Do the motorized seats not travel as far as the non-motorized?

I'm about 6'1'' and my seat is perfect (all the way back of course)

Or...

Are you guys giants?

 

[Montana Cruiser]

I've had these for some time now and if I was ever to get another 80, it would be FIRST on my mod list.

 

[Hog Head]

I've had these for some time now and if I was ever to get another 80, it would be FIRST on my mod list.

x2. My LC was even more fun to drive after I installed the mod. No more banging my knees up.

 

[calfj60]

Old thread brought back from the dead...where do I get these???

 

[TomH]

Check out post #6 in this thread and send him a PM.

 

[reffug]

link to thread in merchandise section.............

Landtanks Seat Extension

This is on my list of things I really need to do.

 

[calfj60]

Thank you guys for the help...guess I didn't search very well...

 

[landtank]

link to thread in merchandise section.............

Landtanks Seat Extension

This is on my list of things I really need to do.

I've got 4 kits available....Git R Done!

 

[walleyefisher]

Got kit installed today and man what a difference. Its so much better I cant imagine going without it. Anyways, best mod I've done so far....and will probably remain the best.

Thanks Rick

Next is the 150 amp alternator mod.

 

[calfj60]

you got any advice??? how long did it take?? lokking at maybe doing it tommorow or wednesday...

 

[walleyefisher]

It took me about 2 1/2 hours because I wanted to make sure i did it right.

Tools I used;

3/4 countersink tool
1/4 drill bit carbide
1/8 drill bit carbide
center punch
chisel
hammer
drill
rotozip with steel cutter attachment <-- made it so much easier.
misc sockets 10mm, 12mm and 14mm
standard allen wrench set
safety glasses
shop vac

Follow Ricks instructions;
Make sure you move the seat 1/2" forward from back before disconnecting and pulling seat.
Center punch before you drill the front feet first with 1/8 then 1/4 bit
Only drill the front rivet enough to chisel it off then center punch it out
The back one you just drill clear through..dont stop until you drop thru to the next rail.
I found it easiest to hit the feet with a hammer from the front and not the side. (hit front of foot upward) This allowed me to break the feet loose fairly easily.
Next unbolt the 4 bolts holding the rails to the gear linkage and flip them over out of the way. (2 on each side)
Next remove bolts near back of seat in the center of the rails.
slide rails out back. Mine took some pretty good force. I hammered mine out. Dont worry about the bearings just dont lose them. The back bearing will fall out and the front will be left behind. Pickup the bearing and the center of the front bearing and put somewhere safe.
Now you have both rails out and its time to do some grinding. Follow Ricks instuctions on which buttons to grind but its pretty quick and painless. Hint clean off as much grease as you can before grinding, then you can just vacuum it all up.
Then I ground off the outside of both rails using a bench grinder. Grind the two inches or so off until you reach the 90 degree angle..then turn the rail and shorten the height a little. This will allow it to clear the frame of the seat when all the way forward.
Next take out the third bolt back from the front on the rails left on the seat (see instructions) Use the countersink tool and dont be shy. You have to sink it enough that the provided bolt screws down completely flush.
After you have the bolt in then vacuum up really well and apply grease on the rails
Put your front bearings back in and hold the back one in while you feed the rails in. This you'll just have to play with to get it right its kind of a pain.
After the rails are in slide all the way forward and makes sure you have full movement. The ground part should slide clear over the frame at the front of the seat.
Put in the back bolts in the center of the frames.
Next install brackets
See the picture in the instructions.
Use the rotozip with metal cutter again to cut the grooves on bracket that connect the rail back to the worm gear. Basically because the rail is further forward now the bracket requires two grooves cut in it. This is only needed on the one side though.
Install bolts though the worm gear bracket to the Landtank bracket then flip it over and align the rail.
Match up all the holes and make sure all is well.
Pretty simple from there.
Use locktite
Install seat.

I put this all down because I think had I read something like this first It would have took a hell of a lot less time. I hope it helps you.

Good luck

 

[96r50]

This was one of the very first things I did to my truck when I got it, and I still enjoy it everyday!

 

[calfj60]

It took me about 2 1/2 hours because I wanted to make sure i did it right.

Tools I used;

3/4 countersink tool
1/4 drill bit carbide
1/8 drill bit carbide
center punch
chisel
hammer
drill
rotozip with steel cutter attachment <-- made it so much easier.
misc sockets 10mm, 12mm and 14mm
standard allen wrench set
safety glasses
shop vac

Follow Ricks instructions;
Make sure you move the seat 1/2" forward from back before disconnecting and pulling seat.
Center punch before you drill the front feet first with 1/8 then 1/4 bit
Only drill the front rivet enough to chisel it off then center punch it out
The back one you just drill clear through..dont stop until you drop thru to the next rail.
I found it easiest to hit the feet with a hammer from the front and not the side. (hit front of foot upward) This allowed me to break the feet loose fairly easily.
Next unbolt the 4 bolts holding the rails to the gear linkage and flip them over out of the way. (2 on each side)
Next remove bolts near back of seat in the center of the rails.
slide rails out back. Mine took some pretty good force. I hammered mine out. Dont worry about the bearings just dont lose them. The back bearing will fall out and the front will be left behind. Pickup the bearing and the center of the front bearing and put somewhere safe.
Now you have both rails out and its time to do some grinding. Follow Ricks instuctions on which buttons to grind but its pretty quick and painless. Hint clean off as much grease as you can before grinding, then you can just vacuum it all up.
Then I ground off the outside of both rails using a bench grinder. Grind the two inches or so off until you reach the 90 degree angle..then turn the rail and shorten the height a little. This will allow it to clear the frame of the seat when all the way forward.
Next take out the third bolt back from the front on the rails left on the seat (see instructions) Use the countersink tool and dont be shy. You have to sink it enough that the provided bolt screws down completely flush.
After you have the bolt in then vacuum up really well and apply grease on the rails
Put your front bearings back in and hold the back one in while you feed the rails in. This you'll just have to play with to get it right its kind of a pain.
After the rails are in slide all the way forward and makes sure you have full movement. The ground part should slide clear over the frame at the front of the seat.
Put in the back bolts in the center of the frames.
Next install brackets
See the picture in the instructions.
Use the rotozip with metal cutter again to cut the grooves on bracket that connect the rail back to the worm gear. Basically because the rail is further forward now the bracket requires two grooves cut in it. This is only needed on the one side though.
Install bolts though the worm gear bracket to the Landtank bracket then flip it over and align the rail.
Match up all the holes and make sure all is well.
Pretty simple from there.
Use locktite
Install seat.

I put this all down because I think had I read something like this first It would have took a hell of a lot less time. I hope it helps you.

Good luck

Thank you so much....I will look for the directions...I hope to do this weds before I go out wheelin thursday...