landtank caster plates install walk through noob help? (1 Viewer)

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gents,

anyone able to help me with the written instructions? i read the link i posted below but i think those are no longer applicable?

Directions:
1. Unbolt and drop the control arms out of the way
- this is the perfect time to press in new control arm bushings using the bushing press tools.
2. Place the plate in position on the axle's bracket making sure the rear hole and front dowel is aligned and in position
3. Using a marker trace out the position of the new front hole, using the caster plate as a guide
4. Grind a slot into the bracket to allow the bolt to pass through
5. Clamp plates in position and weld (stitch welds are ok)
6. Re-install control arms and tighten to spec according to FSM


Gen-ll-Caster-Pate-Installation-Guide.pdf

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2. place plate in position means what exactly? what is meant by “dowel”?
3. trace through plate on the flange for new hole?
4. where am i grinding the slot? i’m not following that.

also. am i aligning anything with bolts through holes? and am i drilling any new holes?
 
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It happens. The plates install differently but people naturally think they would install the same.

ok. but help me here please. i know most guys have no problem with this but it’s new to me. are there any instructions that come with the brackets?

i mean when i get done i will have four new “slots” in the four brackets? any newly drilled holes?

also what does this mean exactly:

“2. Place the plate in position on the axle's bracket making sure the rear hole and front dowel is aligned and in position.”

i’m just not following this.

what is meant by dowel? are there two predrilled holes in the brackets? so i line up one pair somehow and i mark off where i am going to cut into the brackets to use instead of the old bolt hole?

and instead of using the old bolt hole i am now using the area i cut out for the bolt to hold the two plates together? i guess i am not seeing how these two images relate to each other.

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Is there a dowel pin welded to the inside of the plate?
 
Not Slee brackets, but it might help...
 
Something like this to help you align it.

View attachment 2365349

i’m a knucklehead. so those two bushed areas get slotted in to the existing holes?

is that the 2 1/2 degree plates?

what do you do after you put in the bushed areas into the holes and “dowel it” in step 2?

“2. Place the plate in position on the axle's bracket making sure the rear hole and front dowel is aligned and in position
3. Using a marker trace out the position of the new front hole, using the caster plate as a guide
4. Grind a slot into the bracket to allow the bolt to pass through
5. Clamp plates in position and weld (stitch welds are ok).
 
If you have the 2-1/2” plates there are two 5/8” holes and one 5/8” dowel pin. There is a right and left side plate so the down pins interlock with the factory front bracket hole and then use a supplied bolt on the rear hole to align the plate and trace out the front hole of the plate for where you need to grind the slot
 
If you have the 2-1/2” plates there are two 5/8” holes and one 5/8” dowel pin. There is a right and left side plate so the down pins interlock with the factory front bracket hole and then use a supplied bolt on the rear hole to align the plate and trace out the front hole of the plate for where you need to grind the slot
sorry. massive noob here. is front to the left here and rear to the right? i’m just trying to put the idiots version together for myself.

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So, I’m worried it would getting rotated the wrong way... to be clear, as you lift the truck and the axle drops, it rotates so that the pinion points up higher towards the t-case. The centerline at which the knuckle pivot (caster) rotates so that the the centerline points forward instead of vertical.

caster correction plates rotate the axle so the pinion should drop. Make sure that is what is happening before you drill holes or grind.

I know this is probably obvious to many but just wanna know if we’re all on the same page
 
So, I’m worried it would getting rotated the wrong way... to be clear, as you lift the truck and the axle drops, it rotates so that the pinion points up higher towards the t-case. The centerline at which the knuckle pivot (caster) rotates so that the the centerline points forward instead of vertical.

caster correction plates rotate the axle so the pinion should drop. Make sure that is what is happening before you drill holes or grind.

I know this is probably obvious to many but just wanna know if we’re all on the same page
so is this the correct orientation with the two photos or this with the four photos correct i guess was the first step for me at least!

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Front is where you use grinder to slot...towards front bumper
 

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