hope these pics help...
landtank caster plates install walk through noob help? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter landcruiser3DP
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- #22
thanks. apologies for the boneheaded questions.
so with 2 1/2 deg plates it is four slots in the front of the bracket.
so for step 2 below are you putting the plate on so the little alignment dimples go INTO the original holes?
what is step 3 describing? step 4 is saying to cut out the lower portion that you marked out?
are you basically dropping a plumb line off “both sides” of the OD of the front hole? them cutting a 3/4” tall slot? i don’t get it exactly.
“2. Place the plate in position on the axle's bracket making sure the rear hole and front dowel is aligned and in position
3. Using a marker trace out the position of the new front hole, using the caster plate as a guide
4. Grind a slot into the bracket to allow the bolt to pass through
5. Clamp plates in position and weld (stitch welds are ok).”
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- #23
jesus. nice.
so did you just take a 90 up from the bottom of the bracket and align it to the outside (front and back of the original holes)?
<edit: or technically i guess it would be sort of a radial cut in a way. are you tracing the cut as you rotate the bracket while the back end is pinned?>
Just slot the fronts..
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- #26
your photos are very good. when joey gets clear i am going to work him on using some of yours.
but in terms of a written explanation it is basically to pin both brackets through the rear facing bracket hole and rotate each along the base of the bracket while tracing a roughly 5/8” tall pair of circular arcs with each forward facing bracket bolt hole? then cut a straight pair of slots approximating the two circular arcs for the new bolt “hole”?
The plate dimple goes in front original hole
The front cut slots are for New bolt to go thru..original hole is where dimple goes
On the back/rear end of plate, bolt goes thru original hole
On the back/rear end of plate, bolt goes thru original hole
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- #29
jesus. thanks woodsman. sorry it should obviously be easier.
“dowel” the rear hole and rotate the front of the bracket as you trace the two new slots for the new bolt. cut two new slots. bolt up with “dimple” in forward facing hole. weld up.
is that about it then?
The 2.5 plates are impossible to screw up, once you see them in person.
You will need to weld the front edge of the plates to the axle.
@hotwheels2017
Here is how slee and others do it, I don’t know how land tanks are
First pic shows the notch
Second is the plate
Third pic is the top hole you use that hole for the top hole of the plate
4 pic is the pass side, you have to use two small bolts to mount on that side
Rear hole of the plate goes through the original hole 🕳 n the back
With slee you do not drill any holes you only notch the front
Here is how slee and others do it, I don’t know how land tanks are
First pic shows the notch
Second is the plate
Third pic is the top hole you use that hole for the top hole of the plate
4 pic is the pass side, you have to use two small bolts to mount on that side
Rear hole of the plate goes through the original hole 🕳 n the back
With slee you do not drill any holes you only notch the front
Test fit everything first..... then weld em up on the front end...I welded back ends as well
When welding, make sure and lightly bolt em up, without control arms hooked up... heat will burn rubber bushings....when cool, bolt up control arms
When welding, make sure and lightly bolt em up, without control arms hooked up... heat will burn rubber bushings....when cool, bolt up control arms
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- #33
thanks dude!
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- #34
THANK YOU for all the help.
btw, the tip on leaving the control off when welding is probably a good one to put in the instructions. might be there but i missed it. can i ask how you make sure you don’t misalign it when removing them bolts and the control arms?
LINUS
Waiting for the Great Pumpkin
I hope that was your attempt at sarcasm.......I can only hope......
@landtank - vendor being J / @NLXTACY > anything but copies.
we’ve done this convo / I’ll “Pepsi challenge“ -any 4” plates that aren’t Rick’s.
Rick worked with me extensively prior to being vendored -by Joey.
Come drive my 80, do stupid (well not Icon/turbo level) traffic stuff.
It drives like stock neutrality on 315/75’s.
The dimple will keep it alined and the two bolts...lightly tighten bolts for welding though, don't torque and pinch,...you can use old/original bolts for welding
Some people might just weld em on with control arms on but not sure thats good for OEM bushings......landtank or Joey should know.
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- #37
awesome help. THANK YOU woodsman 44.
Do you have the plates on hand? If so start on the right side of the axle as they can only go on one way. Then do the left side mounting them in the same direction.
installing these plates really doesn’t need some elaborate set of instructions. Once you have them in hand it will make more sense.
installing these plates really doesn’t need some elaborate set of instructions. Once you have them in hand it will make more sense.
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- #39
i gotta be honest and beg to differ. it would be helpful to have better instructions on these.
i actually spent half a day reading through three threads then making sure i had all the tools on hand for the 4” plates since it was the only instructions i could find. and the only reason i didn’t buy a full set of drill bits at longer lengths was it simply took me too long to get to home depot.
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- #40
so otramm says to weld the plates on at full droop but to drop it to the ground before you torque the radius arm bolts or you’ll “tear the bushings”. that’s good to know...
