- Thread starter
- #121
Im guessing I want to pull the turbo prior to drilling? While I have the turbo out is there anything I should look at or do?
Builds Land Cruiser Products scores another turbo 80
- Thread starter LandCruiserPhil
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Im guessing I want to pull the turbo prior to drilling? While I have the turbo out is there anything I should look at or do?
Most common way is to drill and tap with the turbo in place. Work on a cool motor, you have to pull the crossover pipe and heat shield off the manifold, just as you break through the manifold start the engine and the pressure should blow any swarf out, grease on the drill bit helps as well. Turbo removal and replacement is about a 7 hour job, and you'll want to replace all the gaskets so if you can avoid it, great.
Rivman1243
SILVER Star
What @IanB said basically sums up how I've always done it. The only other things I've done is a round magnet I place around where I'm drilling and dont coat the drill grease right until its going to break through. I also coat the tap with grease and clean the grease and shavings off a few times while using it
The flatter magnet came out of a Allison 1000 where the filter screws on the transmission. The taller one came out of a hydraulic oil filter from a Cat bulldozer
The flatter magnet came out of a Allison 1000 where the filter screws on the transmission. The taller one came out of a hydraulic oil filter from a Cat bulldozer
- Thread starter
- #124
The speedo gets your attention at first. 
This the way all '80s should be powered.
This the way all '80s should be powered.
Enjoy while you can... you won't be driving like that once you know what your EGT's are.The speedo gets your attention at first.
This the way all '80s should be powered.
View attachment 1972652
- Thread starter
- #126
I was in a 1HDT 5speed (egt equipped) for a month last summer in AZ. The experience gave me a pretty good idea of how fast EGTs can go up and down and I was safe.
My today photo didn’t come out very well showing the A pillar gauges so I added an old one. Another reason I like EGT gauge is knowing when to shut it down. I shut it down at 300 degrees which in the afternoon may take up to a minute. My afternoon commute is a gradual incline for 6 miles driving like I stole it.
Im over 300 degrees as soon as i fire it up
I guess I should have stated my probe is post turbo so I’m a bit lower than if on manifold.
- Thread starter
- #130
1st fuel mileage check -
Normal parts running stop n go, in and out, and some freeway.
GPS MPG 14.9
Normal parts running stop n go, in and out, and some freeway.
GPS MPG 14.9
Is that good or bad?
- Thread starter
- #133
Pretty much what I expected. Driving a 1hdt 5speed (6700#) this past summer saw about the same around town and moved up to 18mpg on a straight freeway. Where I saw the diesel excel is low speed wheeling it kills the gas MPGs under the same conditions.
- Thread starter
- #134
Im loving the 1HDT in the Arizona summer. Start and let it cool off without any worry about the temp gauge moving off normal. The temp gauge has not moved so far once reaching operating temp. Again this is the way all 80 series should be powered.
Now that my driving has calmed down I saw closer to 20+MPG. Sweet!
Now that my driving has calmed down I saw closer to 20+MPG. Sweet!
There is no substitute for I6 factory turbo diesels from Toyota. There is a reason they are still being made to this day (albeit for industrial and marine applications).
Factory sticker in English even thou they were never in the USA and everything else is in German
View attachment 1895085
You can also get yourself a turbo timer which will keep the LC running long after you have turned it off. It allows the oil to cool down, where if you were to just stuff it off the oil can sit and be cooked as it is not moving anymore around the turbo.
I just turned my aneroid to the most agressive profile and I'm having a hard time keeping my foot out of it too. It seems like my best mileage is 21-22 mpg(road trip up north) and my worst so far has been 16-17(testing EGTs as I added in more fuel). My average commute mileage is 17-19 with a mix of street driving and highway cruising at 75-80 mph. The 1HDT is an addictive engine, isn't it?
- Thread starter
- #139
Yes it reminds me of 70's BB power, just push and it goes.
I will probably get even MORE hate mail but 1HDT/5 speeds are for guys that never driven an 1HDT/auto
I'm going to chime in here and also recommend you get a EGT gauge asap. Mine had been "tuned" by someone in japan at some point, and wasn't running safely at all. Mine had a EGT guage but the probe was after the turbo, and according to that gauge everything was great. After I moved the probe to the manifold, I quickly learned that it was regularly running into what is considered dangerous temps. The previous owner was under the impression that it was all stock, but once I started playing with the boost compensator I found that all of the pre-load had been taken out of the star-wheel, so it was dumping in a ton of fuel as soon as it had any boost and the temps were spiking violently. It was essentially using the over-boost fuel cut-off curve to regulate how much fuel it got at full boost. This was all wrong. I set it up according to the info in the (yawn) 60+ page tuning thread in the diesel section and got it set up closer to what I think stock would have been. It was a lot slower but much safer.
I have since added a Gturbo, Intercooler, exhaust, air-box and 4" snorkel. I can now run 75 mph up the mountain passes in Colorado in this heavily built 6500# pig.
If you are planning on keeping the engine stock, I would still very highly recommend the wholesale automatics valve-body for your trans that gives you 3rd gear torque converter lock-up. It's a game changer. It brings 3rd and 4th gear closer together, and keeps the trans from cooking itself if you have to drop into 3rd on a long mountain pass.
The real beauty of the diesel, is that even with mine being highly modified and probably putting out 50% more power than stock, I haven't sacrificed any reliability or fuel economy.
I have since added a Gturbo, Intercooler, exhaust, air-box and 4" snorkel. I can now run 75 mph up the mountain passes in Colorado in this heavily built 6500# pig.
If you are planning on keeping the engine stock, I would still very highly recommend the wholesale automatics valve-body for your trans that gives you 3rd gear torque converter lock-up. It's a game changer. It brings 3rd and 4th gear closer together, and keeps the trans from cooking itself if you have to drop into 3rd on a long mountain pass.
The real beauty of the diesel, is that even with mine being highly modified and probably putting out 50% more power than stock, I haven't sacrificed any reliability or fuel economy.
