nukegoat
Should have bought a Jeep
Looks to touch exhaust
Land Cruiser de-evolution
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- Thread starter
- #142
It doesn't touch. I can get a finger between the tank and resonator....and that resonator will likely be replaced by a piece of straight exhaust tube at some point anyway.
nukegoat
Should have bought a Jeep
How much caster do you have?I got a box containing a minor project. Hopefully it can take care of the little bit of freeway wander I still have. (nothing drastic, but it does exist--and I'd like for it to be gone)
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- #145
About 5 degrees, from memory. I've played around from 2 to 7 degrees, and varying amounts of toe (both toe in and toe out). The biggest change came from adjusting some free play out of my steering box, but I couldn't adjust it any farther. Either the little screw is bound up, or the adjustment is maxed out. So.... "new" box and we'll see.
nukegoat
Should have bought a Jeep
I've found that the ball screw itself is the source of the play in most of the boxes I've messed withAbout 5 degrees, from memory. I've played around from 2 to 7 degrees, and varying amounts of toe (both toe in and toe out). The biggest change came from adjusting some free play out of my steering box, but I couldn't adjust it any farther. Either the little screw is bound up, or the adjustment is maxed out. So.... "new" box and we'll see.
Feels sort of like telling a pretty girl she's pretty, but incredible build. Amazing work.
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- #148
That's a big reason I threw money at RedHead instead of DIY-ing. They claim to custom-match oversize recirculating balls to eliminate exactly that play.
Thanks!
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- #149
It's installed and I drove it to work today. I like the improvement. 
I wish I would have done this originally, it would have saved me a bunch of time and hassle. Oh well. I might even back the caster off a degree now that it doesn't need the help staying straight, see if I can add a little lightness back to the steering.
Nothing much to see, but I took a pic anyway. Still need to make it to a car wash to clean off some of the ATF that spilled during the R&R process...
I wish I would have done this originally, it would have saved me a bunch of time and hassle. Oh well. I might even back the caster off a degree now that it doesn't need the help staying straight, see if I can add a little lightness back to the steering. Nothing much to see, but I took a pic anyway. Still need to make it to a car wash to clean off some of the ATF that spilled during the R&R process...
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- #150
I decided the never-used ash tray/change drawer would be a good spot to mount the face of a Ham radio. Removed the handle, and made this little stainless bracket to mount the face to the drawer.
I used both rivets and a nut/bolt, because I couldn't get the head of the rivet gun inside the drawer to use 3 rivets.
Here it is in place. The drawer is still fully functional if I were to want to use it for something also. Also pictured is the fantastic Ram ball mount on the right side of the dash, from @BenCC .
I used both rivets and a nut/bolt, because I couldn't get the head of the rivet gun inside the drawer to use 3 rivets.
Here it is in place. The drawer is still fully functional if I were to want to use it for something also. Also pictured is the fantastic Ram ball mount on the right side of the dash, from @BenCC .
Somebodyelse5
16124-75030
I decided the never-used ash tray/change drawer would be a good spot to mount the face of a Ham radio. Removed the handle, and made this little stainless bracket to mount the face to the drawer.
I used both rivets and a nut/bolt, because I couldn't get the head of the rivet gun inside the drawer to use 3 rivets.
Here it is in place. The drawer is still fully functional if I were to want to use it for something also. Also pictured is the fantastic Ram ball mount on the right side of the dash, from @BenCC .
Really curious to hear how you like the FTM100... been considering it for my 80, love the size and the look of the display. I have the FTM400 in my 100 and the features are tough to beat. Can you confirm if you are able to broadcast APRS on the B-band while listening and talking on the A band? I've read that it's only possible on the 400.
What ant did you go with?
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- #152
I haven't actually used the FTM100 yet, but I'm 99% certain it's only a single-band radio, so no APRS. (or no talking if I'm APRS-ing
)I bought the same cheapo Tram 1/2-wave antenna I have on my 80. I'm sure it's not the best, but works well enough for my needs. (meaning, 1000x better than any CB ever worked)
Somebodyelse5
16124-75030
I haven't actually used the FTM100 yet, but I'm 99% certain it's only a single-band radio, so no APRS. (or no talking if I'm APRS-ing
I bought the same cheapo Tram 1/2-wave antenna I have on my 80. I'm sure it's not the best, but works well enough for my needs. (meaning, 1000x better than any CB ever worked)
That's what I thought, which was the only deal breaker for me on that radio. The old FTM350 (or 300?) was a similar form factor to the 100 but for whatever reason they discontinued it. oh well.
did you mount the ant on the rear hatch? I have a 5/8 wave diamond, that wasn't particularly expensive, but it works super well
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- #154
The antenna will go up front. I made this little guy for the driver's side fender poking up through the hood gap:
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- #155
A few months ago I made a new transmission crossmember, with skidplates for the trans and transfer case. I finally got around to getting it powdercoated, and today I installed it. It makes me feel better than the bent/rusty stock crossmember, and cheesy excuse for a skid plate. (even if I never touch them...it makes me feel better)
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- #157
nukegoat
Should have bought a Jeep
Are those coupling nuts you used for tube inserts?A few months ago I made a new transmission crossmember, with skidplates for the trans and transfer case. I finally got around to getting it powdercoated, and today I installed it. It makes me feel better than the bent/rusty stock crossmember, and cheesy excuse for a skid plate. (even if I never touch them...it makes me feel better)
nukegoat
Should have bought a Jeep
Oh, also, you can unbolt and remove that torsion bar crossmember thing inside the welded crossmember. Saves some weight
- Thread starter
- #160
I don't know what you're referring to exactly...but there are no coupling nuts.
I tried. It won't come out without dropping the exhaust. It'll get dealt with eventually, when I either have the exhaust apart for some reason, or when I get extra motivation to cut the thing apart. (which is much less likely than the first option)
