Koso slim water temp gauge install

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I got the pack of Velcro at home depot
I'd like to do a oil pressure as well. We should be able to splice it to our original sensor location that way we still have the "dummy " light so if pressure ever drops too low
 
Yeah, my Velcro suck also. I just layed it on the dash where the black trim meets the clear gauge window. There is a lip there and it had ridden there pretty nicely.

I might do some research on the oil pressure gauge. Look at the FSM and find out where you are talking about.

So far my temp has only reached 201* once with a ambient of about 97* and I was sitting in traffic. Most of the time with ambient of about 92-95* I am running between 187-195* traveling on the interstate @ about 70mph.
 
ive got as hot as 205 in 95-100* weather. on the roads its about 190*
i havent modded my clutch fan yet, i have one draining ATM and will swap em out next week and see if i get a cooler running rig.
 
Not having any luck finding a nice tidy koso oil pressure gauge like our water temp. Most all are round.
 
Did you guys drain the coolant when disconnecting the top radiator hose?
 
Did you guys drain the coolant when disconnecting the top radiator hose?

I just pulled the top, drain what I could into a bucket. Installed. Topped off. However I had just replaced the radiator few weels prior so my fluids were already good and flushed.
 
Did you guys drain the coolant when disconnecting the top radiator hose?


I drained the radiator. I did this as I also replaced the radiator hoses with new OEM while I was installing the gauge.
 
I'm about to do this little job to my 93 and I just have a couple quick questions (sorry inadvance for dumb questions). What do you guys recommend for sealing up the sending unit sensor on the npt fitting? Teflon tape or thread sealant? I am leaning towards the sealant, this one to be exact: http://www.permatex.com/products/Au..._Permatex_High_Temperature_Thread_Sealant.htm .... Is there a curing time before you start up rig when using this sealant? Thanks .
 
FYI, for those buying the sender attachment, you can get from Glow Shift direct - saves a little on shipping over other places, plus if you search online you can get discount coupons. There are some nice ones out there if you need to buy more than the sender, but I found a 10% off that helped.

40 MM or 1 9/16 Inch Water Sender Attachment
 
I'm about to do this little job to my 93 and I just have a couple quick questions (sorry inadvance for dumb questions). What do you guys recommend for sealing up the sending unit sensor on the npt fitting? Teflon tape or thread sealant? I am leaning towards the sealant, this one to be exact: http://www.permatex.com/products/Au..._Permatex_High_Temperature_Thread_Sealant.htm .... Is there a curing time before you start up rig when using this sealant? Thanks .

I used thread sealant..... It was the closest thing I could find in my garage. :lol: So far so good.
 
I'm about to do this little job to my 93 and I just have a couple quick questions (sorry inadvance for dumb questions). What do you guys recommend for sealing up the sending unit sensor on the npt fitting? Teflon tape or thread sealant? I am leaning towards the sealant, this one to be exact: http://www.permatex.com/products/Au..._Permatex_High_Temperature_Thread_Sealant.htm .... Is there a curing time before you start up rig when using this sealant? Thanks .

I used Teflon tape as that was what I had. No problemos. Works like a champ.
 
Thanks guys. I don't have either, so I guess I'll flip a coin.:p

:lol: Right.

I really don't think you can go wrong either way, long is it sealed.
 
Looks good folks. Just curious why you all didn't mod the OEM temp gage? Raventai put up a chart of temp numbers corresponding to needle position after the mod. I have done it on two 80s and wouldn't go any other way.....
 
Looks good folks. Just curious why you all didn't mod the OEM temp gage? Raventai put up a chart of temp numbers corresponding to needle position after the mod. I have done it on two 80s and wouldn't go any other way.....

I haven't looked at the chart and really haven't researched the oem gauge mod as I a relative noob to the LC and have a lot to learn/read.

With that said, I cannot imagine a replacement for the digital gauge. I can watch the real time #'s move up and down depending on situation. I was telling my buddy Pete the other day, it might be my imagination but I think I can tell when the t-stat opens according to the # fluctuations.

My oem gauge has 2 1/2 readings.....

1. Cold...before startup
2. ( this one is the half ) very very quick move to just under half position.
3. Just under half position.

I have watched my koso go through a range of about 100* with my oem gauge in the exact same place at all times.
 
Looks good folks. Just curious why you all didn't mod the OEM temp gage? Raventai put up a chart of temp numbers corresponding to needle position after the mod. I have done it on two 80s and wouldn't go any other way.....

TBH I hate tearing apart the dash. I have all the pieces to do the RT mod and planned on it. This took no time at all really and a :banana: like me had no issues.

Having said that I need to re-work my stereo/cb/ham and take the dash all apart again + clean up some things and the RT mod will go in. ;)
 
I haven't looked at the chart and really haven't researched the oem gauge mod as I a relative noob to the LC and have a lot to learn/read.

With that said, I cannot imagine a replacement for the digital gauge. I can watch the real time #'s move up and down depending on situation. I was telling my buddy Pete the other day, it might be my imagination but I think I can tell when the t-stat opens according to the # fluctuations.

My oem gauge has 2 1/2 readings.....

1. Cold...before startup
2. ( this one is the half ) very very quick move to just under half position.
3. Just under half position.

I have watched my koso go through a range of about 100* with my oem gauge in the exact same place at all times.


The long and short of it is that the OEM gauge has a huge dead spot designed into it. Replacing a diode and a resistor with two other resistors eliminates the dead spot and gives an actual functioning temp gauge. RavenTai's writeup breaks it down to the :banana: level... Total cost is under five dollars....
 

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