Cruiserdrew
On the way there
Pretty easy to booger up the threads. Recommend you use care and a brass drift. A press would be ideal. If you're getting new ones, it doesn't matter and pound away!
Knuckle Rebuild - Real Time Tips
- Thread starter Gretsch
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Gretsch
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So if using a press of some sort to press these out and in, as long as I don't mess up the threads, these should be fine to reuse correct? Or does the stress of pressing them out and back in make it a bad idea to re-use them? Is the reason folks replace them more to do with the fact that pounding on them yo get them out most likely will damage the threads? Or is it simply a good idea to replace them for years of abuse and many simply have been damaged over time?
Simply put, is there any reason to replace them if there is nothing wrong with them or is the stress of pressing them out and back in asking for trouble by re-using them?
Simply put, is there any reason to replace them if there is nothing wrong with them or is the stress of pressing them out and back in asking for trouble by re-using them?
Gretsch
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OK I am not figuring this out. What is correct way to replace the rotors off the hubs. My hubs/rotors have only two bolts that seem to hold the rotor to the hub. Yet with those bolts removed, the rotor is completely seized to the hub. Does the rotor simply slip over the wheel studs? Or are the studs pressed into both the rotor and hub thus holding the rotor on the hub? Photos of the new rotor and original rotor and hub assembly. The new rotor does not have any holes for the set bolts. I am guessing the photo of the original hub/rotor assembly, what I am looking at is the back side of the studs and hub and I am assuming the rotor simply slips over the studs and is then set in with the lock bolts. I can't really figure out how the hub/rotor separate to get the new rotor on. The Any help would be appreciated.
Don’t reuse the pounded out studs. Once you pound out the studs you’ll understand why and then the hub and old rotor can come apart or like me, the hub will have to be pried apart if ugly rusty glued together, from the old rotor. I used a big long straight crowbar and attached the pair to my deck edge so I’d have leverage. I can search for some old pics on my thread but it would seem there’s an easier way...
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Page 51, #1011.
forum.ih8mud.com
I need to make an index for my lengthy thread and photos.
Build - Work In Progress aka: Badass
Broke it as in opened up the system, or broke it for real? If you broke it for real, I've just made a bunch of new brake lines and can walk you through it.
forum.ih8mud.com
I need to make an index for my lengthy thread and photos.
I bought new front wheel studs from Rockauto which was fine and most inexpensive although you get what you get... in my case I got a box of both front AND rear. I had to order more fronts to get the number I needed. Rockauto is a funny kinda secret Santa.
I’ll add as well, (chick here, likes to talk) and press you to go see Jim @CenTXFJ60 and have him or someone else nearby to press in the new studs. I used my impact, a old lug nut and washers to press them in and tho three people told me to just do it, it’s not recommended because it adds stress to the shaft of the new stud.
I
I may be wrong (been a while since I separated one of these), but I believe your new rotor is missing the two bolt holes used to lock the hub in. Double check me at a minimum. Also, CD @ceylonfj40nut is close to you and he’s done a few of these jobs. Good luck.
Got a press at the barn. Heading there this morning. Can press them out and put new ones in if you have all your parts. PM me your #. Heading up 75 and turn off at George Bush. Can meet you somewhere. I am staying a couple of nights though. So won’t be back till Sat morning. If you need it sooner you can visit us at the barn. Alternatively, if there is old mom and pop auto repair place that will punch these and press them in for you. Hate going to the “box” places which are wrapped around liability crap.
There is a cool place on Arapaho Rd passed the Richardson public library just west of 75 called Richardson Discount Tire (not the same as Discount Tire) that might do this for you
There is a cool place on Arapaho Rd passed the Richardson public library just west of 75 called Richardson Discount Tire (not the same as Discount Tire) that might do this for you
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@Robert Franzke
Gretsch
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Sorry for the late reply here. 4th of July travelling with the family. My son had a 4 day break from travel baseball so we decided to get away up to Denver for a few days. 13 hour drive yesterday so was whipped when we finally got in.
Thanks for this Felicity. So then removing the studs is definitely required to get these apart?
Yes I noticed the new rotors seem to be of a different type than the ones that are on here. I ordered these from CO sometime back and never checked them until I had the hub off to compare them.
I'll see if I can get over there and see if they can help me out.
Thanks for the suggestions all.
Page 51, #1011.
Build - Work In Progress aka: Badass
Broke it as in opened up the system, or broke it for real? If you broke it for real, I've just made a bunch of new brake lines and can walk you through it.
I need to make an index for my lengthy thread and photos.
Thanks for this Felicity. So then removing the studs is definitely required to get these apart?
Yes I noticed the new rotors seem to be of a different type than the ones that are on here. I ordered these from CO sometime back and never checked them until I had the hub off to compare them.
I'll see if I can get over there and see if they can help me out.
Thanks for the suggestions all.
Yes @Robert Franzke you have to bang or press out the studs THEN pry apart the hub and the old rotor.
Gretsch
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- #34
OK thanks Felicity. Not the news I wanted to hear but good to know. I might be out on replacing the rotors right away. Trying to get this thing done in time for SAS and running out of days. Ambitious I know. I am not sure now I have the correct rotors for this so may be screwed here as for rotor replacement in time for SAS. Need to call Kurt today at CO and see what the deal is on what they sent (hoping they are working today). Sounds like I am gonna need to order wheel studs as well so will prolly do that through them too. Depending on what he says I might just roll with what I have, replace the wheel bearings and seals, finish the knuckle job, and then tackle the rotors and whatnot when I get back. Hate having to crack into these things twice to do rotors after the fact but good to know I have some options here. Thanks all as always for the replies.
You can get rotors from your local NAPA as well. That’s where I generally get them.
The studs and certainly the wheel nuts hold the rotor in place. The extra screw holes are probably just there for holding the pieces together prior to fitting it on the vehicle in the Toyota factory. Unless I'm completely missing something?
If you're right on time and the rotors you have are otherwise correct I'd say you could use them. Or if you have time source the ones 100 percent correct.
On non solid axle vehicles those screws are just there to keep the rotor from falling on the mechanics foot.
If you're right on time and the rotors you have are otherwise correct I'd say you could use them. Or if you have time source the ones 100 percent correct.
On non solid axle vehicles those screws are just there to keep the rotor from falling on the mechanics foot.
Hey guys, regarding the two extra holes and the original bolts. Toyota has superseded away from that and you now just use the 6 studs like most applications. The two additional bolts were just odd redundancy. Hope that clears things up!
Gretsch
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Yes thanks for your Email Kurt. I looked at these so quickly I did not see the markings on the boxes for the rotors stating the design changes for the rotor. Had I it would have saved a lot of time and back and forth on the thread.
I also talked to Bryce there at CO and he said there is no reason to remove the studs to get the rotor separated. The new rotor simply fits over the wheel studs in the hub. Obviously need to bang the rotor off the hub somehow. I thought I recalled seeing something in the FSM abut removing them but not sure if that was for getting the rotor off or simply to illustrate how to get the wheel studs out. I need to spend more time with these. I was trying to get ready for this Colorado trip with the family and didn't get to look at this setup long enough. I was afraid I was missing something so was trying to figure that out so I could get parts ordered if needed for when I get back. When I get back later this week I'll look into this further. Again thanks all for the replies.
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
Bad info. On the 60, the wheel studs do help retain the rotor and you do have to deal with them. Press or hammer them out, and then press them in. I'd use real Toyota studs too. I used Dorman studs one time from NAPA and the retention splines on the studs are different. You can still use them, but they are different.
Nooooooooooo , to (edit) Brice's info, you DO have to remove the studs to separate the rotor from the hub. The studs have splines that grab the hub, and heads on the backs of them that butt up to the rotor. Press them out or beat them out. I used a 20 ton press to push them out.
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