Knuckle Grease? (1 Viewer)

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I bought an 03 LX with ~150k miles that I have been trying to get caught up on preventative maintenance. I am aware of needing to repack the bearings and push grease through the spindle bushing with a tool similar to the Slee tool. I noticed a line on Slee's FAQ for newbies that it talks about a square fill plug and grease in the knuckle.

Is this another grease point I am missing?
Does this fill plug allow you to assess the grease for the spindle bushing?
How on Earth would diff oil make it to the knuckle?

Capture.JPG
 
Looks like you have an 80 series and below manual.
 
It's on the 100 section on Slee's website. If it is for an 80 series that would explain my confusion.

 
I bought an 03 LX with ~150k miles that I have been trying to get caught up on preventative maintenance. I am aware of needing to repack the bearings and push grease through the spindle bushing with a tool similar to the Slee tool. I noticed a line on Slee's FAQ for newbies that it talks about a square fill plug and grease in the knuckle.

Is this another grease point I am missing?
Does this fill plug allow you to assess the grease for the spindle bushing?
How on Earth would diff oil make it to the knuckle?

View attachment 2104069
As said above, that plug is on the 80 and earlier series solid front axle trucks.
 
Cool. One less thing to worry about. While I'm on the grease subject, is there any consensus for the grease for the front spindle bushing?

The FSM I downloaded from TIS says NLGI#1 molybdenum disulphide grease. My owner's manual says NLGI#2. I cannot find moly grease or NLGI#1 anywhere locally.

Moly Grease.JPG
Spindle Grease.JPG
 
I ended up ordering some Mobil 1 Mobilux EP-1 NLGI #1 from Amazon along with the slee tool. I keep this grease in a secondary grease gun.
 
Thanks for your suggestion. The closest thing I can find to what the manual calls for is mobilgrease CM-L. Can't find it in stock though. AMSOIL has an off road grease that is NLGI 1 with moly-disulphide but it is not a lithium complex. The guys at amsoil say it's lithium compatible.


 
Seems like there's conflicting info between those two manual pages you have pasted. 1 says to use nlgi #2 moly mix (used for birf's-we don't have those. It's a different steering knuckle altogether in the 80 series and the grease requirements are different). The other image showing 100 series knuckles states to use synthetic lithium soap based grease for the actual knuckle/needle bearing (we have those). I'd tend to go with the instruction to use nlgi #1 lithium based grease listed on the page showing the procedure. Once again, the moly stuff and the 1st image you have pasted looks like it's for an 80 series. I have all of the factory service manuals at home and will double check, but last I checked, I am pretty sure I got what was needed. I really don't think an nlgi #2 or that amsoil grease you are looking at will hurt anything though, and I know other people use it for this purpose.
 
Seems like there's conflicting info between those two manual pages you have pasted. 1 says to use nlgi #2 moly mix (used for birf's-we don't have those. It's a different steering knuckle altogether in the 80 series and the grease requirements are different). The other image showing 100 series knuckles states to use synthetic lithium soap based grease for the actual knuckle/needle bearing (we have those). I'd tend to go with the instruction to use nlgi #1 lithium based grease listed on the page showing the procedure. Once again, the moly stuff and the 1st image you have pasted looks like it's for an 80 series. I have all of the factory service manuals at home and will double check, but last I checked, I am pretty sure I got what was needed. I really don't think an nlgi #2 will hurt anything though, and I know other people use it for this purpose.

Thanks it will be good to know if the manual I downloaded from TIS is out of date. If so I want my $20 back. The second image is from my owners manual.
 
the gpor1 is a calcium base grease. here is a lithium base
the FSM does not state a moly grease
 
Yes, but that one doesn't have the molybdenum the manual calls for. Either way it's difficult to come up with the right one. I will buy the mobilgrease CM-L from Amazon.
 
just spoke with Mr. @sleeoffroad to complete an order and he recommended any grease with 2-5% moly in it for the spindles. works for me!
 
100 series:
TIS: Apply synthetic oil and lithium soap base chassis grease (NLGI No. 1) to the steering knuckle inner side of the bushing. What? "apply synthetic oil" Now isn't that clear as mud!
You'd be hard press to find any shop with NLGI No 1 lithium soap base chassis grease. Or any NLGI No 1 for that matter.

I looked into this difficult to find grease years ago. Came to the conclusion it's not worth the brain damage. NLGI No 1 is just thinner than No 2. A very good Toyota shop foreman's opinion was; I may get a little grown on cold mornings with No. 2 from brass bushing in slow turn,s until grease warms, but will work fine.

A good NLGI No 2 synthetic chassis wheel bearing grease, keeps it simple and is readily available. What most import, is lubing every 30K miles or less. I just use M1 wheel bearing grease.

Notes:
Moly retains heat, so is not considered suitable for high speed wheel bearings. This includes axle needle bearing (back side of steering knuckle).
EP (Extreme Pressure) is high pressure bearings, which low speed. Whereas may be good for the brass bushing. The needle bearing needs a high speed grease (wheel bearing grease)
 
Green Grease makes a NLGI 1.5 which is a very good synthetic wheel bearing grease. Can be found at most major auto parts stores.
 
100 series:
TIS: Apply synthetic oil and lithium soap base chassis grease (NLGI No. 1) to the steering knuckle inner side of the bushing. What? "apply synthetic oil" Now isn't that clear as mud!
You'd be hard press to find any shop with NLGI No 1 lithium soap base chassis grease. Or any NLGI No 1 for that matter.

I looked into this difficult to find grease years ago. Came to the conclusion it's not worth the brain damage. NLGI No 1 is just thinner than No 2. A very good Toyota shop foreman's opinion was; I may get a little grown on cold mornings with No. 2 from brass bushing in slow turn,s until grease warms, but will work fine.

A good NLGI No 2 synthetic chassis wheel bearing grease, keeps it simple and is readily available. What most import, is lubing every 30K miles or less. I just use M1 wheel bearing grease.

Notes:
Moly retains heat, so is not considered suitable for high speed wheel bearings. This includes axle needle bearing (back side of steering knuckle).
EP (Extreme Pressure) is high pressure bearings, which low speed. Whereas may be good for the brass bushing. The needle bearing needs a high speed grease (wheel bearing grease)
Can you provide more info on this heat retention of molybdenum disulfide? It sounds like another random theory of yours
 
IDK about heat retention, but moly grease on high speed roller bearings (wheel bearings) is a bad choice. It tends to score/scratch the roller surface- and cause "skidding" of the roller across the race.
 
My instinct was to use a bearing grease. I did not think a moly grease was suitable and when i was buying a spindle greaser from slee, christo himself said to use a moly grease i was a bit shocked. I have not yet opened up the hub on a 100 series yet but im assuming whatever grease touches the spindle and end of axle is going to come in contact with the bearings, right?
 
IDK about heat retention, but moly grease on high speed roller bearings (wheel bearings) is a bad choice. It tends to score/scratch the roller surface- and cause "skidding" of the roller across the race.
I heard that myth too, but someone (I think @scottryana or @maxamillion2345) debunked it. If you can find some sort of article in a tribological engineering text or journal, great. I tried pretty hard and failed. I think this myth is BUSTED
 

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