Spindle Bearing Grease

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Jan 7, 2017
Threads
83
Messages
441
Location
Indiana
Getting ready to adjust my front wheel bearings and shoot some grease in the spindle bearings while I’m in there. It’s been discussed on here in the past, but Mobil 1 synthetic grease, even though it’s NLGI 2, OK for spindle bearings? No one in my locale has NLGI 1 rated grease.
 
I've been using Mobilith SHC 221 for years - NLGI1 synthetic grease from Mobil, exactly what the book calls for the spindle needle bearings.

For other applications you may look into XHP Series: XHP 222 and XHP 222 Special (with Molybdenum salt).
Also, Chevron Delo ES is a fantastic general purpose grease.

LE products (Lubrication Engineers) are simply amazing, but last time I checked they lacked the NLGI 1 syn grease suitable for the spindle job.

Chevron is dirt cheap if you buy a box from a local distributor. McMaster-Carr is a dependable source for a genuine product. As is Grainger. Even your local Autozone or equivalent can order those. I am leery of amazons and ebays as they are full of counterfeit everything.
 
I haven't gotten NLGI1 from them, but I do order other specialty lubricants (like Mobil SHC for industrial gearboxes) from Grainger and I always have it the next day.

I'm not a fan of Amazon for multiple reasons.
 
Thanks for this thread. Doing hub rebuild and searching endlessly for proper grease type/amount for new 100 Series style spindle bearings for my 80 Series, as I am replacing the entire spindle and this is how they come new (and not looking to replace with old style, but you can).

Mud and Youtube are all over the place on this newer 100 Series spindle design, with some saying no grease vs. heavy grease, red high temp vs. only moly and NLGI 1 vs. NLGI 2. So, I went to the 100 Series FSM and this clearly says NLGI 1 (see pic) but it also looks like the new IFS design added an oil seal behind the spindle, as this is now a sealed space with no knuckle ball/CV housing.

That would explain the recommended use of NGLI 1 grease in the FSM because there is no risk of this thinner grease mixing w/ knuckle moly as it would in the solid axle 80 design, which was my concern. Especially a concern if you plan to maintain with adding more grease at future intervals using the aftermarket spindle grease tool, as you would be pushing old grease from the spindle into the knuckle/CV space.

The new design needle bearings may not have been intended as a complete retrofit for the 80, and perhaps we are supposed to pop them out in exchange for the old style full brass bushing afterall. But to me, use of moly NLGI 2 (same as knuckle) probably makes most sense because they will naturally mix over time, despite not being optimal for the needle bearings from what I can gather. Given these are not under load, however, it may not matter much and any grease is better than too little (on none!).

So, moly grease it is!!!
🤷‍♂️

IMG_0274.webp
 
Moly, unless some modern engineered moly, designed for and states High Speed. It's generally considered a EP (extreme pressure). The moly, tends to retain in heat.

Wheel bearing grease: State: wheel bearing, high speed bearing and or Chassis. These are high speed greases.

Personally I use. Mobil 1™ Synthetic Grease NLGI No. 2

I do sometimes, use a NLGI No. 1, with moly. For difficult forward or aft properly shaft (AKA drive shaft) slide yokes.
 
Can someone help me understand the anatomy of the spindle bearing and proper greasing procedure? Planning to replace my brake rotors, calipers, pads, etc., repack wheel bearings, and grease the spindle bearings while I'm in there. Just struggling to understand exactly how its done.

Watched this vid using a DIY tool and it looks like the grease shoots into this steering knuckle "spindle" (?), past the the CV, all the way back to the bearing and bushing, ending at the oil seal?
Does the old grease just get pushed out past the oil seal?
If I use Mobil 1 NLGI #2, do I need to clean the old grease out first with brake cleaner and pressurized air? Or would simply "flushing" out the old grease (presumably NLGI #1) with new grease (NLGI #2) be sufficient?
Would it be safer just to invest in a another grease gun and get some NLGI #1?

1781734353423.webp
Screenshot_20260617-152020.webp
 
Back
Top Bottom