Knuckle alignment after throwing out shims (1 Viewer)

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Oct 30, 2018
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I'm rebuilding my knuckle housing after a leaking seal and in doing so, the novice that I am, didn't take note of the shim order. As I read through the manual I now understand the importance of this and I'm wondering, without having to spend a fortune on getting hold of an SST from somewhere (I'm based in Denmark), is there another way I can check the alignment?
 
Go to the top header here look under 'Resources' flip to page 11 and download the FSM for the 1984-1990 Chassis Manual
I submitted there. Its a large file, download and SAVE the manual onto your computer for future use as well.
Open the pdf and go to FA-17 which is pdf page 174. Personally I hate pdf but it beats not having a paper book.
You can read how to rebuild and it should explain how to rebuild fresh.
In reality all you need is a spring loaded gauge to test the preload on the knuckles after assembly. So after you
tighten the trunnion ( knuckle ) bearings they don't either 'flop' too easily side to side or are not too 'tight' and
resist the effort of turning.
Did you keep the shims you had? I gather you just put them in a pile? I'd start by dividing them up and starting there.
As you tighten up the 4 nuts on each, just get a feel for it. If it feels like it's tightening up early, then remove a shim,
if it feels loose right to the bottom obviously it will need a shim or two. That's the primitive way to begin.
Read the FSM, and see how it goes.
You are on the right side of the Atlantic, I'd try Crusierworld.eu maybe someone there can help with tools and parts.
Hope this helps.
 
Go to the top header here look under 'Resources' flip to page 11 and download the FSM for the 1984-1990 Chassis Manual
I submitted there. Its a large file, download and SAVE the manual onto your computer for future use as well.
Open the pdf and go to FA-17 which is pdf page 174. Personally I hate pdf but it beats not having a paper book.
You can read how to rebuild and it should explain how to rebuild fresh.
In reality all you need is a spring loaded gauge to test the preload on the knuckles after assembly. So after you
tighten the trunnion ( knuckle ) bearings they don't either 'flop' too easily side to side or are not too 'tight' and
resist the effort of turning.
Did you keep the shims you had? I gather you just put them in a pile? I'd start by dividing them up and starting there.
As you tighten up the 4 nuts on each, just get a feel for it. If it feels like it's tightening up early, then remove a shim,
if it feels loose right to the bottom obviously it will need a shim or two. That's the primitive way to begin.
Read the FSM, and see how it goes.
You are on the right side of the Atlantic, I'd try Crusierworld.eu maybe someone there can help with tools and parts.
Hope this helps.
Thanks for your advice. I downloaded the manual you mentioned after I disassembled everything and, yes you were right, placed all the shims in a pile🫤. I understood that the shim arrangement is important for the alignment? It looks like there's a calculation after some measurements are taken.

I have a tension gauge so hopefully can do the preload no problem.
 
Thanks for your advice. I downloaded the manual you mentioned after I disassembled everything and, yes you were right, placed all the shims in a pile🫤. I understood that the shim arrangement is important for the alignment? It looks like there's a calculation after some measurements are taken.

I have a tension gauge so hopefully can do the preload no problem.
To my knowledge the shims are there for 2 reasons, getting correct preload and centering the knuckle/axle. When doing mine, I watched a video on YouTube from LowRange and the way they did it was just making sure the top and bottom had the same thickness/amount of shims, meaning you don’t have like 3 shims on top and 1 on the bottom to get the correct preload. I ended up just doing mine by feel as they recommended to increase preload to about 15lbs if running larger than factory tires.
The thinner the shim stack the MORE preload you’ll get. Adding more shims decreases it.

Edit: long story short, just make sure you have the same thickness shims on each side to achieve the correct amount of preload.
 
There's also an old MUD thread (I think in the 40 section) on how to get appox results without the SST, using basic tools and simple measurement tools, but couldn't find it with a quick search. Maybe somebody with more patience (like the OP?) might be able to find it.
 
The SST is available aftermarket and is not that expensive.. no method that doesnt involve a precise measurement using the SST or equivalent is going to result in your seals flogging out in short order.
 
If you don't end up using the SST, make sure you order and USE 'Marling HD double-lip seals". They're far more forgiving than the standard seals.

The kit you buy (if it's from USA may contain them. Ask.).

 

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