Engine wash (1 Viewer)

[2001LC]

I've been washing engines all my life, without incident for the most part. I've washed my 100 series engine & bay area with the engine cover on for protection. The only additional protection I've used is baking soda sprinkled on/around battery to neutralize acid.

This time I really would like to get the Intake Manifold & valve covers clean, which may flood the engine valley. This is much deeper into the 100's bay then I've attempted before.

My concern is with the electrical connections of the fuel injectors, coils, wire harness and flooding the starter. I'll do the best to avoid direct high pressure spray on these, but the spray-back even with eye protection will make this difficult to see areas.

1. Is this a really dumb idea? No!
2. Does the engine valley have a way for water to drain, or will it fill submersing starter? Yes, drains in back of valve under each side of starter.

I've made some adjustment to the way I clean these engine.:

1. I remove air box and cover all open holes & hoses with aluminium foil.
2. When clean front of engine (Timing belt area), I remove drive belt along both idler & tensioner pulleys. Pulleys seals don't stop water very well. Seal especially of aged pulleys aren't that great. Water gets in bearings and they will squeal.
3. Alternator can have same issue with bearings. So I avoid spraying directly into front of alternate. Some WD40 (I've only used electric contact cleaner) sprayed in front to displace water from bearing and brushes may be nice touch before start-up.
4. I do intake areas manifold last.
5. I start engine to dry ASAP and or blow intake to head area with HP air to dry. Reason is water often enters through intake manifold gasket. It seems even more so on the VVT engine.
6. I re-seal fused box lid, before getting to aggressive in that area.
7. I flush radiator fins. Cleaning between condenser and engine cooling radiators, also spray water from the back and front.

Lite cleaning, is where I don't remove belt, pulleys or air pipe:

1. With engine idling. I'll HP washers wash keeping away from moving fan and as such drive belt and pulleys.

Here is why I need to do a very deep cleaning on this engine; A P0325 code, the #1 knock sensor bank #1 wire has been cut. Mickey and Minnie keep a messes bedroom under and around intake manifold. Fortunately they had plenty of food in the pantry (air box), so didn't chew much "hopefully".

Unfortunately for them, they didn't all move out before PO delivered.

Edited 2/10/18:
I now regularly take off cover, airbox, drive belt (db), db idler pulley and db tensioner pulley before doing a deep power washing. This allows me to clean front of engine without concern of damaging belt or pulley bearings. I use foil and plastic bags to cover openings left after pulling air box.

I do not spent any more time than necessary in area where intake manifold bolts to heads, especially on the VVT engines. I've three concerns here;

1. First water can get into intake ports of head passed intake gasket and fuel injector seat seals.
2. I do not want to flood the valley which houses the starter, and A.I. blower in the VVT.
3. I keeping front of vehicle a little higher, which helps keep water from puddling in valley and allows to run out rear drain holes.

Additionally I'm careful around wire, wire housings, hoses, hose covers, fabric sound & heat insulators along with fuse boxes & junction boxes with the high pressured water.

As soon as I'm done washing I start the engine, and go for a drive if possible. This will dry engine compartment and get any water that may have entered the combustion chamber out.

 

[2001LC]

The P0155 & P0133 (#1 o2's) cleared (didn't come back yet), after clean the pantry.

 

[PabloCruise]

Crazy! That is some serious rodent infestation! I'll be watching for replies from experienced folk, as I like to have a clean engine bay in order to spot leaks that pop up.

 

[Output Shaft]

It's best to never spray water in the engine bay ever. Do it the old fashioned way. Rubber gloves, spray cleaner, toothbrushes, rags and elbow grease.

 

[bucfl]

I use purple power. Just cleaned it the other day. You can eat off of it. Turn your engine on, spray EVERYWHERE, then spray some more. After your done just wash the engine with water. DON'T use high pressure as water may get into electronics and give something else to do. All your doing is washing the cleaner off your engine.

I actually like washing the engine, it just seems like a better way to work.

 

[2001LC]

Crazy! That is some serious rodent infestation! I'll be watching for replies from experienced folk, as I like to have a clean engine bay in order to spot leaks that pop up.

What was just as amazing, packing was stuffed to the top and this is only half the food. Amazing such little guys carry so much in volume and size. In the engine valley is a piece wood ~8"x2", takes determination.

It's best to never spray water in the engine bay ever. Do it the old fashioned way. Rubber gloves, spray cleaner, toothbrushes, rags and elbow grease.

Not trying to argue but please; Why not they're designed to handle a certain amount of water aren't they?

I'd like to get the "s***" out, or I'll need a mask the whole time.

I use purple power. Just cleaned it the other day. You can eat off of it. Turn your engine on, spray EVERYWHERE, then spray some more. After your done just wash the engine with water. DON'T use high pressure as water may get into electronics and give something else to do. All your doing is washing the cleaner off your engine.

I actually like washing the engine, it just seems like a better way to work.

I do too, removes corrosives and makes for a better working environment.

The "s***" is baked on so was thinking high pressure could knock if off. Is purple safe on plastic, rubber, paint and electrical conection?

 

[bucfl]

Lol...honestly I never bothered to read the label. But it does say corrosive on the front.

All the plastic covers and hoses are nice and clean. I also use it to clean the under carriage. CV boots, tie rods, and anything that gets cakes with oil or whatever.

 

[abuck99]

I've sprayed mine down with light pressure from a garden hose sprayer attachment - not power washer-

On a newer rig prob not a big risk, but older trucks, electrical connectors that have more brittle plastics, worn orings could be compromised- alternator windings etc-I would be gentle

Everyone's got a special cleaner, mine is good old Mr Clean- full strength in a handheld pump sprayer- spray it on a cooled engine bay let it set for a couple of minutes and spray it off- I've used for years cleaning my dirt bikes- started using it under the hood, fender wells, frame rails where ever dirt grime resides- works great and leaves a little shine too

 

[Kofoed]

I use Simple Green on a COLD engine. SG is not very effective on tought grease, but if you do it regularly, your engine bay stays nice.....

I spray on, let soak, rinse off with a stream of water or a gentle sprapy with the thumb over the hose end. Then I run the engine until dry.

The high pressure blasting of water causes problems.

 

[bctlex]

What I have done in the past is use whatever car wash soap I have, spray it everywhere, scrub if needed, then gentle spray with water. I use car wash soap so it is safe for the car finish, incase I get it somewhere on the painted area. I never use high pressured water, so do not know if it would be ok or not, but it seems that it may get water into places you dont want to get wet, like inside electrical connectors.

I am planning to do this soon when the weather warms up.

 

[RyanStl]

I used Gunk foam spray and it really cleaned stuff up. It wants you to idle for 15 minutes afterward; I suppose to evaporate the water. And, wow that was nice little home those two mice made.

 

[TXLX100]

My only concern would be getting the starter and alternator wet. It's on top of the engine for a reason. Other than that just use common sense when spraying water in the engine compartment. A pre-spray with cleaner and light hosing makes most sense to me instead of trying to blast grime off with water alone. I'm not a big fan of detailing engine compartments myself, I just wipe down whatever I'm about to work on.

Rodents are nasty in cars and love air boxes and to chew wires.

 

[Skidoo]

It looks like mice left stuff in the engine valley, that will clog the valley drain holes and flood your starter.
Pull the intake manifold and clean junk out of the valley (make sure drain holes are clear), depending on mileage you may want to replace starter or starter brushes while you are in there.

 

[2001LC]

I once found a great working citrus cleanser, truck smelled great for days. I'll try without pressure, but this s*** is baked on man.

Those look to be drain holes in the back.

]

 

[2001LC]

Thanks, at 214k mile, starter PM will make good use of the work while in the valley. I'll clear drain holes with wetvac, while flush valley the best I can. Alternator's under vane pump (steering pump) covered in AFT. So I'll be soaking it as well. I need some kind of eclectic parts spray, to lube and dry?

 

[camino70]

I'd think about cleaning the alternator with isopropyl alcohol first, bag it, than clean everything else. Maybe contact cleaner? I'm not sure I'd trust many cleaners with the internals of the alternator.

 

[abuck99]

I'd think about cleaning the alternator with isopropyl alcohol first, bag it, than clean everything else. Maybe contact cleaner? I'm not sure I'd trust many cleaners with the internals of the alternator.

And there's a safe degreasing product for electrics: CRC or Napa electronic parts cleaner

 

[2001LC]

Alcohol may be to drying on rubber, so may not be my first choice. CRC, NAPA or LPS products come in aerosol cans, which are convenient and safer.

I've long suspected driving in deep water kills our alternators' as well as starters (flood). Deep puddles, lakes & river water have silt which grinds away at moving parts. But water itself should not be overly harmful, certainly won't short them out (once dried).

The alternator hangs low and is one of the most susceptible to road moisture. Mr. T as others must have consider this designing accordingly, beyond protection afforded by splash shields. I'm in favor of a detergent degreasing, hosing off then spraying with a greaseless lubricating cleaning. This would be easy field solution.

Which every products used, it must be safe for plastic & rubber, and not attract dust.

 

[Julian Stead]

Gunk EB1 for heavy soiled engines, Gunk FEB1 for lightly soiled, available from amazon. Just apply and hose off after 10 minutes.

 

[2001LC]

I'll see what Wal-Mart, Auto Zone, etc. around here have.

Thanks everyone some good cleaning tip. I'll post some picture.