Yes! I have been looking for this fix for a while now. My truck has the same problem
Knewstance 1998 Restoration/Build (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter knewstance
- Start date
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Any tips for getting the faux wood off of the window controls? mine is looking pretty bad but I was nervous to start tearing into it and make things worse, yours looks like it came out really nicely.
atnolan94
I'm Your Huckleberry
Heat gun and a plastic scraper tool. Best to pull the panels out of the vehicle.
- Thread starter
- #144
This was the best way for me!
After reading this thread about the shifter not operating properly i had to go try mine. Have used it a couple of times in Tahoe. It worked flawlessly. Lately, i've been chasing a more sluggish than usual feel with the LX. I did most things to rectify this without results. MAF cleaning, plugs, redline fuel injector cleaner. Throwing this lever back n forth fixed my sluggish problem. Has anyone ever heard of this before? I'm ready to race you 2005 up guys now!Seems the Aussies have encountered this problem on 100 series too:
Landcruiser 100 series 2006 T/D Auto - Transfer stuck in HI range
Refusal of HI-N-LO transfer lever to move out of HI range turned out to be lack of use!! Below the rubber boot under the plastic and leather covers, the steel transfer lever is attached to a horizontal shaft which is retained in a cast housing ...www.exploroz.com
Landcrusier 100- 4wd lever stuck [Archive] - NissanPatrol.com.au Forum
yesterday my dad tried to shift the little 4wd lever on his 05'LC 100-series but it seemed to be stuck and didn't move up or down. I know this is for Patrol's but my dad asked just to ask if anyone knows what would be the issue. i put the main gear to N (neutral) before trying to shift the 4wd...www.nissanpatrol.com.au
- Thread starter
- #146
Replaced a leaking steering rack, not a fun job. But it wasn't too crazy. It did make a mess of my garage floor though.
You are the hero we all need
How ghetto would it be for me to put a big worm style clamp around my rack/frame with the hopes of keeping it tight? Before you think I'm a total idiot, I just replaced the rack and tie rods along with all bushings and hardware with OEM parts but the darn thing still has 1/2"-1" of slop in it so it feels like I am steering a boat. I don't want to tear out new OEM bushings for aftermarket and maybe a band aid fix is the way to go for now.
- Thread starter
- #149
That's essentially what the stock design already has with the big bushing on the passenger side. I ended up re-using my whiteline bushing for that one and used the OE bushings for the other two.
Yeah good point, I figure it can't hurt, only visually. If I can find a decent spot, maybe a bit of rubber to avoid any damage to the rack, and just worm gear clamp it down.
This is what my all new OE is doing. Sometimes it doesn't bother me but at highway speeds I am reminded of the boat like effect.
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So your saying a bit of side to side movement is normal? What are your thoughts on my OEM parts having that wiggle? Everything from the tie rods to the rack are new toyota parts. I can't justify destroying the new bushings and installing aftermarket as most have done here but the half inch or so of nothing I have in my steering wheel is sketchy
Normal, and what you want to see. The poly bushing will take that movement out. As they're hard and won't give much at all. But the poly bushing, transfer more shock to hands of driver on steering wheel. They also transfer more shock to rack & pinion gears, TRE, and ball joints. Which may reduce life of components.
Personal I feel. One of the benefits of a new OEM R&P. We get OEM mounting bushing, which IMHO is best.
If you have HWY wandering with a new rack & Pinion in. Look elsewhere for cause.
Tire pressure
Alignment.
Rake. (front must be lower, by 3/4" or more than rear end) of vehicle.
Wheel bearing. Must be tight!
Ball joints. No play on OEM.
Control arm bushing. Most are just fine.
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Interesting, thanks for your vote for keeping oem bushings in there. I like the logic behind it, but it is not a safe feeling when buzzing down the highway fully loaded.
"not a safe feeling when buzzing down the highway fully loaded." Than you've something else, not as it should be. New OEM rack & pinion w/OEM or ploy mounting bushing, is not going to wander on HWY (vehicle loaded or not).
Now if you've a trailer in tow, with heavy torque weight. So much so, the rear drops and front lifts. That's not the rack or it's bushing! As we need rake (front lower than rear).
Thanks, the fully loaded comment may have not been accurate. It steers like a boat all the time, no load or with load. I don't pull trailers either. With the wheels on the ground, you can clearly see the rack moving before the wheels. Simple as that, just upset that OEM parts could have this much wiggle.
Sorry for hijacking build thread, back to your regularly scheduled programs.
