Builds Kitsu-KZJ71 Project (1 Viewer)

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Brake rotors arrived this morning! Got them installed along with the tie rods and stabilizer.


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Power Steering Leak: Kitsu was bleeding out on the shop floor. The reservoir went to empty in three days. Doing some investigation, I figured out the pump was leaking out of the rear, which was secured with an o ring and lock ring.

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Partsouq sells a repair kit for leaking power steering pumps. At $25 it's a bargain compared to a rebuilt or new pump!

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Removal is straight forward, but I found removing the battery, tire and splash guard in fender well sure made removal and installation easier. There's a great write up on rebuilding the pump from the UK at this link 1KZTE power steering pump rebuild.

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Reinstalled, bled and good to go!
 
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Today I continued work on the front axles. I priced out replacing the electric hubs with Toyota parts and wow-About $1000 for new parts (though I know a lot of people source used parts for the rebuild)! Out of my budget for now...someday for sure.
I did some investigating and decided to give the updated/upgraded AVM hubs a try. I got them on eBay for $150. AVM Hubs
Most of my research left me skeptical but these appear to be redesigned from what others have described.
The body is cast steel; the drive ring is steel; the outer cap is aluminum.
Instead of using the 4 studs like the electric hubs, you remove them and use 6 hardened hex head bolts with cone washers.
We'll give them a go and let everyone know how they do.

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A couple tips that helped me:
I chased the M8 threads in the hub body before installation. They were pretty clogged. Then I filed small notches in the drive shaft snap ring to help grab it with regular snap ring pliers. (Great for trying to grab it in the middle of the night, stranded in the middle of nowhere).


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Steering woes I believe are the result of compromised trunnion bearings and worn out tie rod ends. Getting both in order. The TREs were so frozen I soaked with PB Blaster overnight and torched them... no success. I finally had to cut two of the joints and weld a large nut on each so I could get them out with a 6 point socket and long breaker bar.
In my defense of ownership, this truck drove and steered the best!

Great work @shermantank55
 
Two more small projects: After changing all the gear oil (diffs, transfer, transmission) I lengthened and relocated the differential breathers. The front diff into the engine compartment next to the battery; the rear into the cabin area where the jack and tool kit are stored. I used 1/4" OD air line to extend the original lines. Photo shows front line next to aux electrics circuit breaker.
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I also replaced my mangled battery terminals with a good set of military terminals in preparation for dual battery and winch power cables. Military Terminals - Summit Racing


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Door panels-
I plan to move the speakers from the rear doors up front, so I recovered the door panels with Ottertex material, similar to cordura, but waterproof. I started with some poly batting over the original vinyl to help mask lines from the original door panel. Fabric and batting are attached with spray adhesive. Lots of lessons on the Internet for reupholstering door panels that helped. Also ordered a bunch of these interior clips to replace broken ones. Total cost for enough materials to do all my interior panels and extra clips was about $60.

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While replacing the rocker cover gasket, I decided to clean up the throttle cable as all the plastic coating was cracking or had already fallen off.
I slipped a length of 3/8" electrical shrink tube over the exposed cable sheath, and it worked well to seal the exposed sheathing.

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Finally back in the shop. Temperature today was 71F versus 4F last week!
I was going to relocate the 6 1/2" speakers to the doors with these from c2dfj45
After looking at the interior space available around my feet, and considering there are new (though tiny) Alpine speakers in the dash, I decided to mount the speakers behind the front seats.
I used these from Crutchfield: Retrosound RPODs.
The benefit is they are surface mounted so there are very small holes to mount them and I can remove them later without damage to the panels.
They sound fantastic!

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I’m 6’5” and moved my seat back over 3” in my BJ74. I just judged some 1/4” flat stock and it was easy and helped a ton.
After an extended ride in Kitsu, I copied FJBen and added 3" of leg room. Thanks FJBen!
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Another small addition: I'm getting ready to invest in a $300 + battery so I installed a small battery tender. The Noco Genius 2D was on sale on Amazon for $36.
It fits in a small space and is already wired for permanent installation. Fits nicely next to the coolant reservoir. The plug side is long enough to run out the bottom of the grille behind the bumper.
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It came with the kit, but I'm in mid knuckle rebuild so haven't installed it yet.
Part number OME SD24
I've ordered the Cruiser Outfitter's medium suspension kit but the front springs and shocks are backordered till mid-March. While I wait, I'd like to see what your ride height looks like with the medium load package installed. With the medium springs in the front and the heavy springs in the rear, you had 5" from fender to top of tire in the front, 8" in the rear. With the Ironman shocks/springs currently on my KZJ71, I have 8" and 9". So I'm looking to see how much improvement comes with the medium package. Thanks
 
I've ordered the Cruiser Outfitter's medium suspension kit but the front springs and shocks are backordered till mid-March. While I wait, I'd like to see what your ride height looks like with the medium load package installed. With the medium springs in the front and the heavy springs in the rear, you had 5" from fender to top of tire in the front, 8" in the rear. With the Ironman shocks/springs currently on my KZJ71, I have 8" and 9". So I'm looking to see how much improvement comes with the medium package. Thanks
I'd measure from the center of your hub to the fender-eliminating the difference in tire sizes. This morning I measured 21" from center of front hub to bottom of front fender and 22 3/4" from center of rear hub to bottom of rear fender. I currently have no rear seat or additional weight in the back and anticipate the rear will be lower once loaded.
Hope that helps!
Cheers
Greg
 
I'd measure from the center of your hub to the fender-eliminating the difference in tire sizes. This morning I measured 21" from center of front hub to bottom of front fender and 22 3/4" from center of rear hub to bottom of rear fender. I currently have no rear seat or additional weight in the back and anticipate the rear will be lower once loaded.
Hope that helps!
Cheers
Greg
thanks so much, that does help. From hub center to bottom of front fender I currently have 23", nearly 24.5 in the rear. And your measurements were with medium springs front and rear? I too have removed the rear seats and have no load at present. Out of curiosity, what are you running for tires? Mine came with some Cooper 265/70 r15's. thx again, Steve
 
thanks so much, that does help. From hub center to bottom of front fender I currently have 23", nearly 24.5 in the rear. And your measurements were with medium springs front and rear? I too have removed the rear seats and have no load at present. Out of curiosity, what are you running for tires? Mine came with some Cooper 265/70 r15's. thx again, Steve
I have the medium springs in front and rear. For tires I've currently got BFG KO2 in 235/85 r 16. They were new when I purchased Kitsu, otherwise I'd have gone with Cooper ST/Maxx, probably in 255/85 R16 like I have on my FZJ80.
 
Storage Drawers/Fridge Slide
Received all the components for my rear storage drawers and a Dometic Fridge Slide, so started building. I'm using 1/2'" Baltic Birch for the unit along with locking drawer slides. I plan to build a drawer for the camp kitchen as well as a tool/utility drawer. Still working on water storage in front of the unit. Happy to share materials list and dimensions if anyone else is interested.
Here's the start and an example of another I've already built for Dingo, the FZJ80

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