KISS Drawers (Keep It Simple Storage) for 200s

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Thank you! Going to hit the hardware store and see what I can get. Did you add that black d-ring on the floor?
D-Ring is stock- its part of the floor (its a 100 Series)
 
Thank you! Going to hit the hardware store and see what I can get. Did you add that black d-ring on the floor?
The 200 has the same sort of D-rings bolted to the floor. 4 of them, in fact. They may be hidden under the carpet.
 
Wierd That is completely different than the Reef Landshark drawers that I have...
My Landshark Drawers were the initial run back in 2017- they've gotten some nice design updates since
 
Hey guys, apologies but I've been slow crawling back out of my holiday shell. Well, that and this is just too much for one guy anymore and I lost my part-time help and am in process of training up a new one. While moving drawers for GX, Forerunner, Land Rovers etc into production. And more SharkNet models. Anyone want to buy in to a booming business to help it grow faster? ;)

I am revamping, yet again, the ordering process because of problems that just keep cropping up. I think I can finally get to stocking product with my new helper, and if not well we are looking at the old notify-me system (but I don't think it will be needed much). Existing pre-orders will be fulfilled in February, invoices going out soon.
Hey Dave,
We're building up our new rolling home and wanted to see if you'll have some 200 series drawers in stock in the next few weeks?
Cheers!
Tim
 
Hey Dave,
We're building up our new rolling home and wanted to see if you'll have some 200 series drawers in stock in the next few weeks?
Cheers!
Tim
That email you quoted was from 2021.

Last time I knew his store was offline, and he was looking to change up his business.

I have a pair of his Reef drawers for sale on the classifieds, if a buyer wants to pick them up in Vermont.
 
Hi all, doesn’t seem anyone have the instructions for the drawers?

I picked up a set and trying to figure out how to bolt it down.

Thanks!
 
Hi all, doesn’t seem anyone have the instructions for the drawers?

I picked up a set and trying to figure out how to bolt it down.

Thanks!
It took me while to dig this out, but this what I had for mine; don't know if you have the same gen.
 

Attachments

Thank you!!

I think mine is a different gen but this will be helpful
He is some other info on mounting that member @4gotalot send me back 5 years ago:

The main problem we need to address is to keep the aluminum tracks strait so the slides make even contact from one end to the other.
If you pull both drawers and look at the frame you will see that there are only four points of contact which are the 3rd row seat anchors that we use U bolts to hold the entire frame down. They are located in the middle of each cross member. Now add weight on top of the platform and you will see the aluminum tracks bowing under the load.
The tension on the U bolts can be over tightened but this is not the main problem. The problem is that there is limited locations in the 200 to keep a square frame square

As a basic description as you look at the frame is that we need three points of support on each track to keep it strait under load. Each support needs to make contact with the metal floor under the carpet and the wood frame. I used a 36" level as a strait edge and only a strait edge to see the aluminum track bowing. The support blocks I installed were only about 1" x 1" and what ever thickness needed per that location. I used a Wonder Bar for more leverage to lift and ck each block as I checked with the strait edge. My tracks were only off by about 1/16 at rest with no load but were worse with a big 100 pound lab laying down on the top of the platform.

Left and right track guides: The aft end closest to the tailgate seem to have good support as it rests on the lip of the plastic trim going from side to side so the aft end is your starting point and no adjust needs to be made there.
There is a location about a 1/4 of the way fwd were there is no carpet and a block can be inserted to support as close to mid way on the track as possible.
The same goes for the the front of the left and right tracks. There should be just enough pressure on each block to keep it in place. I did not use any glue.

The center aluminum track is the only problem because there is carpet under the ply wood frame and I used a stack of door frame shims to distribute the load on the carpet until I remove the frame, cut a hole in the carpet and add a block mid way and at the front of the center track.

I checked the drawers for square and reinstalled the nylon runners about an 1/8"-1/4" back on one side and fwd on the side so the nails had new wood to go into. The thin piece of trim that I installed with counter sunk screws every 4 inches will now hold the load instead of just the nails.
 
He is some other info on mounting that member @4gotalot send me back 5 years ago:

The main problem we need to address is to keep the aluminum tracks strait so the slides make even contact from one end to the other.
If you pull both drawers and look at the frame you will see that there are only four points of contact which are the 3rd row seat anchors that we use U bolts to hold the entire frame down. They are located in the middle of each cross member. Now add weight on top of the platform and you will see the aluminum tracks bowing under the load.
The tension on the U bolts can be over tightened but this is not the main problem. The problem is that there is limited locations in the 200 to keep a square frame square

As a basic description as you look at the frame is that we need three points of support on each track to keep it strait under load. Each support needs to make contact with the metal floor under the carpet and the wood frame. I used a 36" level as a strait edge and only a strait edge to see the aluminum track bowing. The support blocks I installed were only about 1" x 1" and what ever thickness needed per that location. I used a Wonder Bar for more leverage to lift and ck each block as I checked with the strait edge. My tracks were only off by about 1/16 at rest with no load but were worse with a big 100 pound lab laying down on the top of the platform.

Left and right track guides: The aft end closest to the tailgate seem to have good support as it rests on the lip of the plastic trim going from side to side so the aft end is your starting point and no adjust needs to be made there.
There is a location about a 1/4 of the way fwd were there is no carpet and a block can be inserted to support as close to mid way on the track as possible.
The same goes for the the front of the left and right tracks. There should be just enough pressure on each block to keep it in place. I did not use any glue.

The center aluminum track is the only problem because there is carpet under the ply wood frame and I used a stack of door frame shims to distribute the load on the carpet until I remove the frame, cut a hole in the carpet and add a block mid way and at the front of the center track.

I checked the drawers for square and reinstalled the nylon runners about an 1/8"-1/4" back on one side and fwd on the side so the nails had new wood to go into. The thin piece of trim that I installed with counter sunk screws every 4 inches will now hold the load instead of just the nails.
Awesome, thank you!!
 

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