Kill switch? (2 Viewers)

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Salinas, CA
I have an extra Toyota OEM dome light switch. I could install it to the left of the hazard light switch. There is a blank that covers an unused hole in that position. The switch could operate a relay to arm or disable ignition. I was thinking of using the relay to interrupt or grounds the negative side of the coil that connects to the points.

Good idea? Would there be a arcing in the relay if it was used to open the connection?
 
On my 72 with a 76 hardtop I usually don't bother to lock the doors because of the kick vents and seldom take the key out of the ignition because you can just open the hood and use a jumper and a screwdriver to drive it away. Make a dummy coil lead to the the dizzy - keep it in the glove box until you need to try and isolate your rig.
 
I would suggest hiding whatever switch you use. I think a non-labeled switch on the dash might attract attention.
 
I would go with a hidden switch. Mine just causes an open circuit to the coil. Cranks till the battery dies but won't start.
You switched the positive side of the coil? OR, the negative side that goes to the points?

My reason to ground the points side is that if the positive side, of the coil, was switched a jumper from the battery easily activates the ignition. That would be first thing I'd do if I did not have keys.

IF the points were grounded the problem could not so easily be diagnosed and circumvented as easily. But, does leaving the points grounded hurt the coil?
 
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You switched the positive side of the coil? OR, the negative side that goes to the points?

My reason to ground the points side is that if the positive side, of the coil, was switched a jumper from the battery easily activates the ignition. That would be first thing I'd do if I did not have keys.

IF the points were grounded the problem could not so easily be diagnosed and circumvented as easily. But, does leaving the points grounded hurt the coil?

I kept it as simple as possible. Ran the power lead to a single pole switch and ran a wire from the switch to the positive terminal of the coil. Switch open no spark. You are right, if someone ran a wire from the battery to the coil it would start. I probably did this 20+ years ago.
 
My kill switch is tied to the electric fuel pump…..and I can remotely activate through the tracking system. If someone were to steel it, instead of killing the ignition, at least they could get out of an intersection before it dies and leaves them stranded.
The rest of the story is; I had deactivated the fuel pump when we went away for a weekend…. The next Monday my wife gets in to go to an appointment, and It died. And of course I was in an area without cell reception. The truck sat in the middle of our cul-de-sac for most of the day….till I got her text that it died…..I never told her I had remote activation….I reset and ‘magically’ started the rig…..I have never admitted to this day how I got her running again (LOL).
 
The electric fuel pump idea is good . I'd probably add a GPS tracker too.

For good or bad I have a mechanical fuel pump. Mine has a 292 Chevy engine.
 

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