KDSS Relocate w/o Opening Shutters? (1 Viewer)

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YellowJacket

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Wondering if anyone's done this. I was told it can be done, but it'll be more of a pain. I was also told that my lift kit can be installed w/o opening, just a pain. The lift install was a huge pain, but there was a bigger issue. My 2013 had a huge lean to one side until I drove to Slee for my rear bumper appt and they were able to weld nuts on and release the pressure. The local shops couldn't get a nut to hold.

That was 2021. Now that we're here in 2025, it's time to move the sway bar forward. Both nuts that were previously welded on and rotated broke. We welded new nuts on and got one to rotate. The other doesn't appear to have enough to weld on any longer.

If I just go for it and have success with the install, do you think it will lean just like it did with the lift install?
 
@linuxgod is saying he opened his for the lift install, but didn't for the KDSS relocation install and there was NO lean, so I guess I'll give it a go.

Now the question is, do I open the ONE valve that does move. haha
 
Let's add some visuals to the KDSS drama here. The only thing worse than working in this heat, is working in the direct sun so I made a makeshift shade setup.

So I am ignoring the shutter valves, and just started tackling the Anderson Max KDSS Relocation Brackets which moves the sway bar forward 1.5" rather than the common 1". This of course also requires you to move the end links to the outside of the LCA. Well tonight 3 of my 4 saw bar bracket bolts decided to just spin. My new Milwaukee impact broke the welds free on the inside of the frame. So now the question is, do I cut 3 small rectangles in my frame in order to get a wrench on the nuts inside? Or do I use a sawsall and cut the bolts in half, and try rivnuts? (But then are those strong enough) Or is there a better option that can be accomplished on a Sunday so I can still drive to Cruisers on the Rockies Monday morning. I hope I am missing options...
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Is there any combination of socket/flexjoint/extension/weird setup that would allow you to grab the nut through existing holes? But the nut may have enough weld material on it to keep a socket from grabbing it anyway. Do you have a borescope that would allow to see what’s in there?
 
Is there any combination of socket/flexjoint/extension/weird setup that would allow you to grab the nut through existing holes? But the nut may have enough weld material on it to keep a socket from grabbing it anyway. Do you have a borescope that would allow to see what’s in there?
Borescope is a great idea. Maybe I'll see if any of my buddies around have one. Looks like even at Harbor Freight they're $80+ and I've already spend hundreds on tools in the last week. I'll also check once more if there's any chance to get anything in there. I really don't think so, but now that I've gotten a few hours of sleep, things could change. :D:(

I guess I could also try tapping the frame.
 
I'll get a borescope picture of the area in the next few hours.
 
I don’t see any welds, unlike when I got pics of the front recovery point nuts. The nuts seem to be bonded to a flat plate that is lying in there. Not sure how they are affixed.

I will say the bolt protrusion through the nut is significant. You’ll definitely need a deep socket. It does seem with the small rectangular access points some combination of tools could fit in there. I can say I wouldn’t want to have to do it more than once though.

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I broke this bolt a long time ago and just cut a hole in, put a nut in place and drove it like that for a while. Eventually I took it to a fabricator and he plasma cut a bigger hole to fix it right and then welded a plate back over it.
 

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