Builds Kavik's SOA

[kling-on]

oh ya and even with my BIG bump stop and the new front AAL I can make mine rub the top of the front but I have 38.5 and 12 in wide wheels

 

[Kavik]

A little progress...

Prepped the rear lower mounts and got the front tacked in place.

I think I'm going to modify the Ford tower. I would like the front shock to be more vertical. The top leans out a bit. And it may end up rubbing, if that 37 gets way in there. So, I'm going to notch the back of the tower and bend it back to vertical (in relationship to the frame face). The steering u-joint is right behind the tower, so an "s" shape is in order. The upper mounting bolt will end up in the engine compartment

FYI- The shock is a Ford Superduty rear takeoff (Rancho 5000) 29.5" eye to eye

Here's some pics.

The lean out....

Trimed the inner fender a bit...

Lower mount....

Thats a 30" long shock, I'll be able to run a REALLY LONG shock!

Clearance to steering u-joint

Rears ready and waiting to go in...

 

[RAWHEAD REX]

Looks great Kavik.I looked around and found a rig that someone already did the SOA and lots of other upgrades.Mine has Fox shox on it and it rides sooo smooth.I really love it.The previous owner had most of the work done.He spent a lot of money having everything done.I like the color of your 60.You do good work.Those 37s look awesome .What are you going to do about the rubbing? Thanks for the pics.Dave

 

[RAWHEAD REX]

Kavik,I just found the 2nd page " DOE" Oh well forget the rubbing question.Your cruiser looks great.Now go have fun.

 

[eatmc55]

did you use the round u-bolts from ruff stuff right next to the diff, or did you find a squar one. i need to replace mine.

 

[Kavik]

did you use the round u-bolts from ruff stuff right next to the diff, or did you find a squar one. i need to replace mine.

Round...

FYI - I had to heat it up and bend it just a tiny bit to clear forward angle of the diff housing.

If you look closely in the pic, there is a 1/4" thick, half round piece welded to the bottom. This is to keep the u-bolt fron climbing up the diff. There is also a smaller half round right where the u-bolt wraps under (makes the square housing round). I did not want the round u-bolt to deform when torqued down.

Next time, I'll try to to get a better angle w/ the camera

 

[brokenparts]

lookin good man!

 

[BELMONT148]

I would have probably mounted the shock tabs on the top of the axle housing. That looks like about 4" too long to run 14" travel shocks. If you were going to mount them low on the axle tube I would have skipped the extended ford towers and just used the stock ones. The shocks on my 40 are mounted on the top of the tube with a span of 25" to the top the ford towers. They will stuff and just barely bottom out and then drop the full 14". I don't see how you can get more than 14" of travel with a leaf spring suspension, plus shocks only come with that as the maximum travel. You are going to only have 5" of droop with that setup.

Your setup does look nice. I am planning on doing the same once I get my 60. Probably only run 35's though as it will see a lot of road use.

Jeremy

 

[Wile E Coyote]

Good looking build, and thanks for the product #'s and the like.
Keep us updated on the long-term health of those rear springs. My stocker 62 rear springs lived under a Michigan truck most of their lives, and look it. Your's aren't much better looking at least by my monitor, so I'm interested, as I'm weighing the SO vs. SU debate.

 

[brokenparts]

my shock mounts with the ford towers.

 

[Darkrealms]

Kavik, I'd wait for the engine swap if I were you on the front drive line. When I SOA'd mine, they dented the front driveline (didn't really matter it was too short as well) and I twisted it off not too long after trying to pull a post. Back was fine on mine too.
Now I'm putting in a 383 (388 really) chevy small block and even with the the cruiser 4spd I will have to do both drive lines.

My SOA project
Prices and lift measurements from my above thread on my SOA

 

[Kavik]

Found a little time this weekend...

Reworked the Ford towers.

Almost vertical, but still room for shock to swing in...

 

[lowtideride]

Cool, just an FYI for those that are checking out this thread and wanting to install ford front shock towers. You can also c-clamp them to your frame and just weld them on with out cutting your fenders up..

Kavik Looks great buddy. Your gonna have some serious stuff with that shock set up

 

[Kavik]

Cool, just an FYI for those that are checking out this thread and wanting to install ford front shock towers. You can also c-clamp them to your frame and just weld them on with out cutting your fenders up..

Kavik Looks great buddy. Your gonna have some serious stuff with that shock set up

The pitman arm will keep me from stuffing too far. I've debated notching the frame for a flat pitman arm. Oh, that and trimming the fenders back.

 

[lowtideride]

If you get a near flat pitman arm, get an fj80 one, it will fit perfectly and they are beeeeefy. I mean twice the thickness of any 60 series....

 

[Kavik]

If you get a near flat pitman arm, get an fj80 one, it will fit perfectly and they are beeeeefy. I mean twice the thickness of any 60 series....

I think Sky makes a zero drop arm, but that would req frame notch(see below).

However...

I've never seen an 80 arm before. That just may be the ticket! I'm going to try and find an 80 arm local to see if it works. Anyone want a brand new Marlin pitman arm?

Marlin arm (included in their hi-steer kit)

80 box/arm

60 and 80 arm comparison

Sky and stock

 

[CruisinFJ60]

so just so i am on the same page here...

the flat or more so of a flat pitman arm will allow more upward movement of the drive line correct?

I have to pull my trans out to fix a pilot bearing issue so im gonna start my spring over here in the next 2-3 weeks. and start getting all my parts im gonna need now.

 

[Kavik]

so just so i am on the same page here...

the flat or more so of a flat pitman arm will allow more upward movement of the drive line correct?

I have to pull my trans out to fix a pilot bearing issue so im gonna start my spring over here in the next 2-3 weeks. and start getting all my parts im gonna need now.

I did a shackle reversal. My modified front and rear hangers put the leaf springs much higher/closer to the frame than stock hangers. When the drivers side leaf spring is compressed into negative arch, it will hit the pitman arm/tie rod end. I can drop my bump stops to prevent this, or move the tie rod up via a pitman arm with less drop.

I am still experimenting with the final set up. I have not gotten the truck on a tall enough ramp to really flex it out. It remains to be seen how far the 37 will tuck into the wheel well. The tire may bottom out on the inner fender before the spring touches the tie rod end. I'm just considering every option to maximize up/down travel of the suspension.

 

[bkfj40]

A 2wd toyota truck with power steering has a fairly flat pitman arm as well.....

lookin good!

bk

 

[CruisinFJ60]

I did a shackle reversal. My modified front and rear hangers put the leaf springs much higher/closer to the frame than stock hangers. When the drivers side leaf spring is compressed into negative arch, it will hit the pitman arm/tie rod end. I can drop my bump stops to prevent this, or move the tie rod up via a pitman arm with less drop.

I am still experimenting with the final set up. I have not gotten the truck on a tall enough ramp to really flex it out. It remains to be seen how far the 37 will tuck into the wheel well. The tire may bottom out on the inner fender before the spring touches the tie rod end. I'm just considering every option to maximize up/down travel of the suspension.

so since i do not plan of doin a S.R. should i have to worry about this? or even need to take it into consideration?