Did you end up not needing the cut and turn?
Builds Kavik's SOA
- Thread starter Kavik
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- Thread starter
- #102
I did not cut and turn.
As it sits, the front driveshaft angle is a little steeper than I would like. This is amplified by the spacer over lengthening the d-shaft. I have run it in 4wd and it does not bind. However, I cannot say it has had to operate at full droop.
If I retubed/lengthened the front shaft it would probably be OK w/o the c & t. This is because I am only at about 5" of lift.
The real reason I did not c & t is because I am installing a doubler behind a V8/700R4. My front d-shaft will end up being ~10" longer than stock. At 5" of lift and +10" of length, the shaft angle will be fine, even under more extreme droop.
Whew...I guess I coulda just answered no...
Bikes and Cruisers 
Kavik looks great and you are experimenting with a lot of what I have experimented with over the years.. Aka, way too few leafs, and too big tires You can also pull off that small a SOA, heigh wise, which of course is awesome, with 35's as they'll stuff in there...
Seriously at this point (and though 37's are cool) my rec is to drop them and go to 35's, you will be in much better shape as IMO there is something about 37s that just barely tips the scales as far as strength of axles and all the other issues your running into, and honestly not worth it IMO.. But this is just my $.02...
Second basically it will noodle out and you will also get severe axle wrap once you start wheeling aka possibly break stuff and your springs will die quickly.. The technique is to de-arch stock leafs add them in or I built a custom pack using long soft add a leafs. This allowed no load carrying compromises and provided the necessary stiffness for a SOA without a traction bar...
Otherwise welds and maching looks awesome of course. I definetely dig the shackle reversal and your technique for that, as well as the shock mounts, very intellegent and strong
Hope it helps Kavik
Here are photos of how my packs started out (a lot like yours), and this did not last long at all....
Kavik looks great and you are experimenting with a lot of what I have experimented with over the years.. Aka, way too few leafs, and too big tires
You can also pull off that small a SOA, heigh wise, which of course is awesome, with 35's as they'll stuff in there...Seriously at this point (and though 37's are cool) my rec is to drop them and go to 35's, you will be in much better shape as IMO there is something about 37s that just barely tips the scales as far as strength of axles and all the other issues your running into, and honestly not worth it IMO.. But this is just my $.02...
Second basically it will noodle out and you will also get severe axle wrap once you start wheeling aka possibly break stuff and your springs will die quickly.. The technique is to de-arch stock leafs add them in or I built a custom pack using long soft add a leafs. This allowed no load carrying compromises and provided the necessary stiffness for a SOA without a traction bar...
Otherwise welds and maching looks awesome of course. I definetely dig the shackle reversal and your technique for that, as well as the shock mounts, very intellegent and strong
Hope it helps Kavik
Here are photos of how my packs started out (a lot like yours), and this did not last long at all....
Here is how they ended up, which is definetely the way to go. You can take some arch out and lower even more... But this again could haul 2500 lbs no problem, and overall was super stable and no loss of flex...
- Thread starter
- #106
True...That's where I'm probably headed. I'm running the full stack in the rear already, plus an extra on the driver side to help w/ the Cruisa lean.
Update...Just finished a pseudo desmog to free up some power and to try to get rid of a mid-range stumble. Next up is NGK plugs and valve adjustment. More suspension stuff on deck, but I want to get out and wheel it a bit more.
SOA tricks
Hey Kavik, I did alot of tinkering on mine when it was SOA'd. I found a lot more flex moving the vrear shackle hangers forward an 1 1/2", along with the boomerang shackles.
Hey Kavik, I did alot of tinkering on mine when it was SOA'd. I found a lot more flex moving the vrear shackle hangers forward an 1 1/2", along with the boomerang shackles.
I wanted to keep the ride height as low as possible. I have plenty of other springs to boost the height, but chose not to. And yes, for me, stuffing is the name of the game. Thats why the body work is on the short list.
I'm looking into those big pyramid shaped poly bumps. If I dropped the factory bumps about 2", it would be just right. But, I like how the aftermarket ones have more travel
I have no problem with the rears going into negative arch. But, they will pay the price. My original plan was to french the rear hangers up into the frame about 4" above stock. This would give me 4" of free arch and keep the current ride hieght. Also considering 63" chevy's like CaliCruiser's...
Keeping the 37's, thank you very much. I am also exploring more ways of extending the flex (stuff and droop). More is more better;p
Thanks for the props guys
- Thread starter
- #109
If, or rather, when I mess around w/ the rear hangers, that is what I'm going to do. I'll probably tube through the frame(like I did w/ the front shackle hanger), if I can can figure out how to get around the rear body mount. This may be one of the deciding factors in going w/ the 63" Chevys. The extra length should get the rear mount well behind the body mount.
Ronnie, you need to send me pics of your rig so I can add them to my 60 series gallery (link in my sig)
so if you didnt do the cut an turn why did you need to put new spring perches on the front ?? also did you rotate the rear housing and put new perches on there too
Hey Kavik,
sorry for the interrupting your thread but dude i just saw your page with all the cruisers and i saw a buddies truck ther that i built the front bumper on. I miss being home dam the luck!!!!! sweet page also
sweet spring over by the way, i love the tubes cut into the fram my fav part actually
sorry for the interrupting your thread but dude i just saw your page with all the cruisers and i saw a buddies truck ther that i built the front bumper on. I miss being home dam the luck!!!!! sweet page also
sweet spring over by the way, i love the tubes cut into the fram my fav part actually
- Thread starter
- #112
The top plates are not designed to be used as leafspring perches...
I removed all of the factory perch and u-bolt brackets and replaced them w/ 4+ brand perches and new round u-bolts. As for the rear, cut the perches off of the bottom, and welded new ones on top. I kept the pinion angles as close to factory as possible (parallel w/ the t-case flanges).
Now, I everything is gone from the bottom of the axles. Nothing to hang up on the rocks...
- Thread starter
- #113
cool thanks for that ,so if i used stock springs and shackles and just put the diffs in the right spot(under the springs)than the angles should still be stock apart from the unis which might need a double cardin joint .
when you say 4+ do you mean 4mm thick steel or is that a brand
when you say 4+ do you mean 4mm thick steel or is that a brand
- Thread starter
- #115
- Thread starter
- #117
Thanks! Bolted on some slightly used (thanks Craigslist) 14" Rancho 9000s on the front. Drove around at the firmest setting. Truck feels a little less "boat"ish. I haven't twisted it up yet, but they appear to be a good travel match for the Ford towers.
I'm also trying to install a minivan seat as a 3rd row. But, I really want to get some the fenders trimmed and some bumpers and sliders in place.
I'll post up and let you know what I come up with...
- Thread starter
- #118
Another update...
Added 2" bump stop extensions up front, but it was not enough to keep the drivers side leaf spring from contacting the pitman arm tie rod. Also, got some nasty tire rub on the front fenders. I've got to get crackin on the body work and finding a pitman arm w/ less drop.
On a positive note, I reinstalled my rear Aussie Locker w/ the proper side shims and it worked flawlessly and damn near silent. Very happy.
FYI - FJ60 + 4.88's + 37's + 3200rpm = 70mph and still handles quite well...
Poser pics from Payette Draw run...
Added 2" bump stop extensions up front, but it was not enough to keep the drivers side leaf spring from contacting the pitman arm tie rod. Also, got some nasty tire rub on the front fenders. I've got to get crackin on the body work and finding a pitman arm w/ less drop.
On a positive note, I reinstalled my rear Aussie Locker w/ the proper side shims and it worked flawlessly and damn near silent. Very happy.
FYI - FJ60 + 4.88's + 37's + 3200rpm = 70mph and still handles quite well...
Poser pics from Payette Draw run...
Your build is pretty much why I decided on a low SOA as opposed to a 5" SUA setup.
Keep updating!!
Keep updating!!
- Thread starter
- #120
Right on. Now that the weather is getting nice (under 110 deg!) The rig will get a lot more use and wrenching.
Stay tuned...