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- #421
Builds Katit's LX470 2001 restoration/maintenance thread
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- #422
I do keep a log. $19000 so far (including purchase price)
Not bad, you log your labor hours as well?
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- #424
No, of course not
No I mean as in how much time you spent working on it, not to include that as monetary value. I enjoy working on these things, my last one didn’t need much so next one I buy I want it to be really jacked up.
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- #426
Understood. It's not possible to count. All time I spend researching parts, manual. Working on and off here and there. Impossible to count. It's just a hobby, so hard to tell. Just leather interior took me about 60hr not counting research and practice.
If I guessed - 200-300 hours maybe?
Lot's of stuff I am doing as you see not even remotely necessary. It's just I like to tinker and I like everything neat.
If I guessed - 200-300 hours maybe?
Lot's of stuff I am doing as you see not even remotely necessary. It's just I like to tinker and I like everything neat.
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- #427
Power steering pump. Since I am replacing rack I wanted to make sure whole system is clean and good.
Pump was cleaned and blasted. Rebuilt with factory kit. O-rings inside were dry and brittle. Gasket and seal was good, but how long until it leaks?
Pump was cleaned and blasted. Rebuilt with factory kit. O-rings inside were dry and brittle. Gasket and seal was good, but how long until it leaks?
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- #428
Front diff. Replaced axle seals and bushing. Bushing again gave me fits. Definitely easier on bench but took some time and installing new one required special tool machined.
To remove I cut 3 slits on top and used chiesel from all around and it finally came out.
To install I machined ring which goes over rubber and pushes on this very small exposed lip. This ring worked for installing seals as well. I have full box of various round rings and bits after doing LX and BMWs
And of course somehow I ended up pressing this bushing about 10 degree off.
To remove I cut 3 slits on top and used chiesel from all around and it finally came out.
To install I machined ring which goes over rubber and pushes on this very small exposed lip. This ring worked for installing seals as well. I have full box of various round rings and bits after doing LX and BMWs
And of course somehow I ended up pressing this bushing about 10 degree off.
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- #429
Control arms. Some pics in progress.
For uppers - I blasted without removing all paint, just rusty spots. Installed bushes and ball joints, then primed and painted whole thing.
For lowers - I blasted rusty spots and POR15 only those paces leaving everything else as is. Too big to deal with and I am getting sick of it
But all bushes and ball joints in, all ready to install. 555 joints had virtually no lube in them.
Pressing bushes and joints required all kind of tricky rings. Those, I will say again, not easy ones to deal with..
For uppers - I blasted without removing all paint, just rusty spots. Installed bushes and ball joints, then primed and painted whole thing.
For lowers - I blasted rusty spots and POR15 only those paces leaving everything else as is. Too big to deal with and I am getting sick of it
But all bushes and ball joints in, all ready to install. 555 joints had virtually no lube in them.
Pressing bushes and joints required all kind of tricky rings. Those, I will say again, not easy ones to deal with..
what size socket do you use to clear the threads on the BJ?Control arms. Some pics in progress.
For uppers - I blasted without removing all paint, just rusty spots. Installed bushes and ball joints, then primed and painted whole thing.
For lowers - I blasted rusty spots and POR15 only those paces leaving everything else as is. Too big to deal with and I am getting sick of it
But all bushes and ball joints in, all ready to install. 555 joints had virtually no lube in them.
Pressing bushes and joints required all kind of tricky rings. Those, I will say again, not easy ones to deal with..
View attachment 2750886
View attachment 2750887
View attachment 2750888
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View attachment 2750890
Awesome work, I'll have to keep that part number handy for when I end up needing to replace my steering rack.
To press in ball joints you can rent a ball joint press kit (a glorified C clamp) and also rent the 4wd bj adapter kit: https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...ertough-4wd-ball-joint-adapter-set/ren1/67048
Easy peasy,
Easy peasy,
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- #433
My Autozone didn't have adapter kit, so I had to improvise. But I guess it's a better way (to get kit with appropriate adapters)
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- #434
Here is the socket. I have NO idea where and how it got to my toolbox. I don't even have 3/4 drive. Still need little bushing over it to cover threads completely
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- #435
Rack already in, any hints on how to get it centered (L/R) as much as I can to get ready for alignment? PS reservoir took Ultrasonic bath with simple green solution. Not sure it helped a lot, but outside it looks good
Sway bar links - almost got broken from rust inside. And, my part list missing bushes. I got metal washers instead, so now up to dealer to get those.
Sway bar links - almost got broken from rust inside. And, my part list missing bushes. I got metal washers instead, so now up to dealer to get those.
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- #436
Still working on getting all pieces ready. I think the only "messy" and "smelly" jobs left is to POR15 frame and clean hardware for control arms. Other then that - all clean and prepped.
Knuckles were cleaned, blasted, painted. Needle bearings and brass washers were in exc. condition, so I just removed them, gave everything good cleaning and re-assembled. Installed new seals.
I use marine grease I got for motorcycle in places where I need water repelling/protection. I use red M1 grease for actual bearing surfaces.
Hubs get new bearings, seals, studs. And paint of course.
And of course I didn't take pictures of seals installed but I can swear they were installed like #1. So, what should it be? 1 or 2? Looking at config - I tempt to install them #2.
Knuckles were cleaned, blasted, painted. Needle bearings and brass washers were in exc. condition, so I just removed them, gave everything good cleaning and re-assembled. Installed new seals.
I use marine grease I got for motorcycle in places where I need water repelling/protection. I use red M1 grease for actual bearing surfaces.
Hubs get new bearings, seals, studs. And paint of course.
And of course I didn't take pictures of seals installed but I can swear they were installed like #1. So, what should it be? 1 or 2? Looking at config - I tempt to install them #2.
I'm 99% sure it's #2.
#2
