Kate (78 FJ40) meets 12HT (1 Viewer)

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New rear main seal and all new Toyota clutch components going on. This engine was attached to an auto when it arrived.
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All bolted together and ready for some test fitting. The tires (35x12.5) were swapped out for some stock FJ60 wheels/tires (225x75) so it would be a little easier to work with.
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Some test fitting. 12HT looks like it should be in there. The steering shaft is close but it should work as is once its all in place. The power steering pump will have plenty of clearance. The mounts should be welded in tomorrow and the engine set in place.
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Can we have the frame cleaned up a bit before the 12H-T goes in and thanks? .
 
Will be fabricating front mounts and using early 60 trans cross member. Yes the frame will be cleaned up and painted before it's over - not too many chances to get that much access to the frame
 
well its not in yet - few detours today. In this post you will get way more info than you ever wanted about installing a tach sensor. The bellhousing is a NEW toyota part and for some reason it was not drilled and tapped for the sensor.

The center of the of the flywheel teeth is about 1" from the back of the block so I used that as my measurement on the bellhousing. Threads are 20x1.5. I drilled successively larger holes until large enough for a tap then threaded it. I have a factory tach from a later diesel 40 to go in - if I can just convince pactoy to let me put a hole in the dash that is. The sensor came off the auto trans that was with the engine.
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few more pics of the tach sensor process. The sensor is a Hall sensor - it counts the teeth on the flywheel and sends a pulse with each tooth. Search the forum a bit as others have posted in depth info on this.
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This 40 has a custom seat platform and fancy seats with a tuffy console. I had to remove it all to get at the trans cover. You can see in the pic that it has already been modified to work with the 465. Ill have to modify it again to fit the H55. Its coated with line-x or rhino - anyone have a suggestion on how to remove this stuff? I was planning to use a wire wheel on the grinder.

Second pic is of the front of the H55. Notice the 1/2 inch (or so) dowel pin. There are two of them on the front of the trans and you should make sure you have them to keep things aligned. I had to pull some from a scrap trans as they were missing.

The frame is all cleaned up and with the interior out etc Im ready to fit the engine now. Ill post more in a few days.
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heat might work to remove the rubber flooring.
nothing is ever as easy as it seems, eh?
your doing a good job, congrats.
 
Wow, that rig has some great history.

Rob
 
Cool build!!

Side note: can I buy the York brackets and matching v-belt from the 2F for my rig? I have a york but no brackets to go with it. While we I'm at it, if you have no use for that Saginaw, I'll take that too, with bracket of course ;)
 
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Go with the Line-X. My brother used to work for a shop spraying Line-X for 3 years and they have chemicals to remove it. I don't know if the local dealer would sell you some or make you take it in if you want it removed.
 
OOOHH Cant wait to see it in her
 
"Second pic is of the front of the H55. Notice the 1/2 inch (or so) dowel pin. There are two of them on the front of the trans and you should make sure you have them to keep things aligned."

yeah, no kidding. I had a TBI350->H55F in an old 60 series... didn't notice the missing dowel pins. Had the transmission out 5 times before I figured it all out. Mostly clutch noise and strange disengagement... but I actually BROKE the nose cone at one point! The release bearing was riding on the input shaft.

This is an exciting build. Butch (RIP) would be happy to know that truck is being worked on by another Cruiserhead.
 

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