Jowett Performance Filter Housing with Fumoto drain valve

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Received my Jowett Housing with all the fixings. Looking forward to the next change. I have one clarification question. I have the ez drain valve for both the Jowett Filter housing and the Oil Pan. Do I use a new washer that you normally would with the normal drain bolt for the oil pan when installing the ez valve to the oil pan? I ordered a few of these when I ordered my TRD filters just in case (cheap). Also, just to confirm you only use the large rubber o ring shown in this thread on the Jowett housing? Don’t use any other o ring that comes with the TRD filter? I understand how to remove the old plastic filter tube and install in the Jowett filter housing and the main large o ring on the Jowett housing. Thanks for the help.
You move the metal (not plastic) perforated tube over from the stock filter housing. As said previously in this thread, you don’t use additional (factory) sealing washers with the fumoto valves. You use the large o-ring that comes with the factory filter kit (there is no longer a place for the smaller o-ring on the Bjowett filter).
 
Need to torque EZ-drain at pan to 30ft-lbs, but flats not socket accessible. Only flat edge.

Do it by feel and check for leaks? Put socket on torque wrench over handle of wrench?

What am I missing?
 
  • Like
Reactions: NTV
@txtortoise Perhaps you could get a crowfoot socket on it?

I just tightened mine until it seemed reasonable, not to a particular torque spec.

To guess the answer to the follow up question: If the crowsfoot is put on at a 90° angle and not at the end increasing the length, it will not effectively change the torque value. The overall length of the lever will be the same for the applied force.
 
You move the metal (not plastic) perforated tube over from the stock filter housing. As said previously in this thread, you don’t use additional (factory) sealing washers with the fumoto valves. You use the large o-ring that comes with the factory filter kit (there is no longer a place for the smaller o-ring on the Bjowett filter).
Got it thanks a bunch makes sense!
 
Need to torque EZ-drain at pan to 30ft-lbs, but flats not socket accessible. Only flat edge.

Do it by feel and check for leaks? Put socket on torque wrench over handle of wrench?

What am I missing?
30ft-lbs is spec for the stock plug with crush washer.

I'm not sure if you need 30 with an o-ring. I havent put mine on the pan yet, so curious to know what others have done.
 
30ft-lbs is spec for the stock plug with crush washer.

I'm not sure if you need 30 with an o-ring. I havent put mine on the pan yet, so curious to know what others have done.
30 is insane. I take it snug + quarter turn and call it good. No issue.
 
I’m also in if there’s another group buy.
 
30 is insane. I take it snug + quarter turn and call it good. No issue.
30 does seem crazy. I looked that up when installing my valve replacing the plug. I torqued it to 30 per the book but it didn’t “feel” right compared to all other drain plugs I’ve ever installed but then, I’ve never bothered to look up a torque value for one either let alone actually use a torque wrench.

I’ve only ever seen one issue with a drain plug and it was due to a PO apparently over torquing and striping the female threads on the pan.
 
I love these so much! Thanks for making the filter housing. And yet again not a drop of oil hit the garage floor.

On another note I was reading a thread about the PCV valve and picked one up today at advanced auto for $6. It literally took two minutes and found out mine was stuck open.
 
I don’t recall any group buy, but I may have missed it. Why not just do like a lot of us have done and wait for them to be in stock and then buy one.

Brian isn’t a huge business, he’s one of us, doing a service to the land cruiser community by having these made. I’d bet he’s not making a fortune on these. Whatever he makes is well deserved.

These things are a massive upgrade over stock and well worth every penny.
 
30ft-lbs is spec for the stock plug with crush washer.

I'm not sure if you need 30 with an o-ring. I havent put mine on the pan yet, so curious to know what others have done.

Getting ready to install mine at my first oil change in the next week or two, so I went and did some research. The EZ oil drain valve website says "Hand install the valve until tight, and give 1/8 turn with a small crescent wrench on the body. DO NOT OVER-TIGHTEN!" Kind of generic instructions.

However, the tech specs area of their website has "recommended torque values" for each of their valves. It shows that our EZ-103 valves have a "recommended torque" of 20 ft lbs, or 240 inch pounds.

TECHNICAL SPECS - https://ezoildrainvalve.com/technical-specs.html
 
I don’t recall any group buy, but I may have missed it. Why not just do like a lot of us have done and wait for them to be in stock and then buy one.

Brian isn’t a huge business, he’s one of us, doing a service to the land cruiser community by having these made. I’d bet he’s not making a fortune on these. Whatever he makes is well deserved.

These things are a massive upgrade over stock and well worth every penny.
Sorry, didn't mean to say looking for group buy. Meant looking for them to be in stock so that I can place an order for one.
 
Just purchased the 6 pt socket to remove/install the housing from the Jowett website. Should have bought this when I bought the filter housing.
I thought it was the same as the socket we use for FAS on the 80, if you didn’t already have one. ????

- Warning -

I am probably wrong, I have drawers & drawers of sockets & such.
 
there are a ton on amazon.....what size threads do we need?
 
Anybody have experience with the Valvomax oil change system?

 
I posted this in another thread. Not sure how much of an issue it is but the length of the bolt on these after-market valve-based drain plugs apparently prevents ALL the oil from draining out. I guess it would be pretty easy to compare the OEM drain plug to any new 3rd party drain plugs.

Oil change check list - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/oil-change-check-list.1237446/#post-13580202
Without the drain plug being completely on the bottom of the pan, not the side (which it isn't on the bottom), you aren't getting all the oil drained out anyway. From the bottom of the pan to the lip of the threads will still have oil.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom