Journey to My First FJ40 (1 Viewer)

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Moving the rear axle back helps with your departure angle when wheeling. Essentially it minimizes the likelihood of dragging the back end on whatever obstacle you are crawling over.
 
welding [strike]or bondo[/strike]

Fixed.


I'd stay away from ebay unless you plan to go inspect it in person before bidding.

Keep you eye on the mud classifieds, or find a craigslist aggregator and search around the southwest. I don't see your budget listed, but try to find one with original paint. If you can't, don't buy one without "before" pictures.
 
sypd said:
I'm looking for solid info on the motivation behind moving the rear axle back, other than cosmetic b/c another mod to suspension may have force it forward. Is there a functional benefit here?

The ride also improves markedly due to the longer wheelbase. I moved mine aft 2" and front forward 9/16". The ride was much better, with minimal buckboard; wish I'd done it to all my cruisers.
 
Moving the rear axle back helps with your departure angle when wheeling. Essentially it minimizes the likelihood of dragging the back end on whatever obstacle you are crawling over.

The ride also improves markedly due to the longer wheelbase. I moved mine aft 2" and front forward 9/16". The ride was much better, with minimal buckboard; wish I'd done it to all my cruisers.

Gotcha, thanks.

As I head across state tomorrow, I'll be looking at one that has the rear moved back 2". It'll be interesting to compare that ride with my last. Of course, it has many other mods.

I'll post pics this weekend. I haven't a clue what it looks like right now. But it's on the way, so I figured why not stop.

1975 Toyota FJ40 Land Cruiser 4x4
-around 6,000 miles on a new Chevy crate engine 290 hp 350.
-Powerjection III fuel injection.
-Chevy 5spd transmission with adapter to Toyota transfer case.
-3” rancho lift with rancho 5000 adjustable shocks.
-BFG KM2 mud terrain tires 33x12.5x15.
-2.5” wheel spacers.
-Rear axle has been moved 2” back.
-Skid plate for transfer case.
-Power steering.
-Warn 9000 Winch.
-ARB Lockers, Rear locker is installed, Front needs to be installed, I have the locker with new bearings and seals to rebuild front axle.
-ARB compressor, for lockers and for airing up tires or blow up mattress ect.
-Full roll cage, and pads.
-Hard Top with ambulance doors, Soft Top, Bikini Top, and Soft Half Doors.
-KC lights front, back-up light in rear.
-20 gal. Auxiliary tank.
-Front seats reupholstered.
-4+plus Rock rails, and Front Bumper
-Rear bumper with tow package.
-New Radiator.
-Interior floor completely rhino lined.
-Sony AM/FM CD player with USB connection for I pod.
-Hella Halogen head lights.
-Rear Heater.
-Original jack and tool pouch.
 
I'd stay away from ebay unless you plan to go inspect it in person before bidding.

Prices on eBay seem to be climbing...and the rate of new FJ40s being added seems to have increased a bit. Maybe the recent Mecum and like auctions have people trying to capitalize. But I'm also glad to see some discrimination from buyers staying away from those with high prices and evident defects. Anyway...

For sure, ideally I can see it or have some I trust give it a thorough eval.

Keep you eye on the mud classifieds, or find a craigslist aggregator and search around the southwest. I don't see your budget listed, but try to find one with original paint. If you can't, don't buy one without "before" pictures.

My budget is fairly wide I suppose. I'd love to only spend 10k, but I don't see that being realistic for me. I need to spend the $ up front rather than buy cheap and work on it myself. I've never welded, fabricated, sanded, painted....well, I think I painted a bmx back in the 80s...not sure I was supposed to, but...

It's not unrealistic to get photos and documentation of the condition prior to restoration or mod, right? I don't think so, and it seems most here on mud would agree.....hence all the photos in build threads, etc. Seems for a vehicle of age you'd want to have that ... unless you're hiding something.
 
Gotcha, thanks.

As I head across state tomorrow, I'll be looking at one that has the rear moved back 2". It'll be interesting to compare that ride with my last. Of course, it has many other mods.

I'll post pics this weekend. I haven't a clue what it looks like right now. But it's on the way, so I figured why not stop.

interesting that there is no mention of brakes :hhmm:

have you checked with your local MO cruiser club ? you'd be surprised what is hiding/hanging out in barns and could be for sale if you are nice ;)
 
I hate to say this, but unless you want to spend the Barrett Jackson (etc) prices, almost any rig you buy will need at least SOME mechanical attention. As a person with an AA degree in automotive and diesel mechanics for almost 30 years, I will offer you the same advice I have given my (programmer for Microsoft 10 years) younger brother many times. The vehicle you can realistically own is vastly different than the one I can. That being said, do your due diligence and find the rig that fits your life as best you can, within reason, drive it, and learn to love it enough to fix it YOURSELF. Not only will you be happier with your purchase, but you will be more capabable as a man (or woman, don't want to be sexist). That's worth more than the purchase price on it's own. I don't want to sound preachy, but it makes a HUGE difference in your "owner" experience.
With these rigs invest in a decent set of hand tools, and get comfortable with doing things a bit outside your comfort zone. If you don't, you will more than likely be miserable. But in that lies the beauty, the first time you can hold an intelligent conversation with a fellow "head" about what you have done to the rig, you will be hooked. And the stories are priceless.
I've always liked the car guy mantra of "built, not bought", and while an ICON is a work of art, it really looses a lot of it's soul. The warantee has long expired on these things, and the only guarantee of their survival is the dedicated legion of fellow idiots that choose to apply stupid amounts of money and time into these rust prone hunks of metal that put a perma smile on to the faces of thier lucky(?) custodians. And not unlike having children, if you are in a place to mind them appropriately, they are well behaved and a joy to behold. Don't pay them enough attention and you will always be wondering where you went wrong.
I think in a nut shell, if you want a reliable but eclectic rig to drive every day, buy a Mini Cooper. If you want a life-changing rig, buy, and learn how to repair, maintain, fix, upgrade, understand, question, hate, and adore, a Cruiser.

lefty b
 
interesting that there is no mention of brakes :hhmm:

have you checked with your local MO cruiser club ? you'd be surprised what is hiding/hanging out in barns and could be for sale if you are nice ;)

O ye of little faith. ;) It has brakes.

j/k we'll find out what kind tmrw. Discovering a cruiser is an evolving story; all part of the adventure. 'course I won't find it so funny when I own one and uncover some unholy surprise.

I've reached out in the Gateway Cruiser clubhouse. Crickets.

If you anyone on the St. Louis side of Missouri, I'd be grateful for an introduction.
 
the only guarantee of their survival is the dedicated legion of fellow idiots that choose to apply stupid amounts of money and time into these rust prone hunks of metal that put a perma smile on to the faces of thier lucky(?) custodians.

I want to just quote your entire sermon and put it on my wall. It's dripping with wisdom from personal blood, sweat and tears! Sincerely. Well said.

I have the Cooper....maybe that's your reference. ;) I'm def in this for the opposite.

Amen and Amen.

I fully expect to invest hours, days, weeks into care and repair as a custodian. Just not as soon as I get it home.
 
Lefty b,
The points in your post were stated so well and are 100% true. It took me just over a year with many trips to the mechanic to arrive at the same conclusion. I finally took ownership and have started doing my own maintainence, most of it out of my comfort zone. I now have my mechanics cell phone number . With his help and that of the guys on this forum My cruiser is running great. I have a six year old son who hung out with me while I adjusted the valves, did compression test, and adjusted timing and carb. What a great cruiser experience. He will be light years ahead of me as he will grow up learning to work on it. I wish I could have read your opinion before buying my 40. Might have saved me some angst.
 
A cruiser is a very simple machine and you can learn how to do almost anything at all to it. This is a fantastic hobby and the internet is an amazing resource. Once you start tinkering you'll quickly learn your limitations and talents and come to cherish your wrenching time to cleanse the mind and spirit.

If someone tells you they have a frame off but have no pics, they don't have a frame off. No-one does a frame off without at least one pic of the bare frame, not even in the days before digital.
 
Hey Everyone. Thanks for the kind words. Never meant to get so long winded when I hit "reply" on the thread, it just became sort of a stream of consciousness kind of thing (actually hammered it out on my phone). I have spewed out various iterations of that rant more than a few times, usually after having tossed the keys to a friend to let them go for a drive. They almost always come back and say "I gotta' get me one of these", and the education begins....

sypd:

I read the early parts of the thread when it first appeared and must have logged away that you drove a Mini. I guess the gist of my point is that the financial wherewithal to make the initial purchase is but a small part of OWNING a vehicle such as these. It sounds like you are being smart about your hunt for the right rig, and your patients will serve you best. As far as I can see you are headed down the right path.

purpleaction:

Good to hear that you took the bull by the horns, and keep the kiddo engaged while you are at it. With a lot of the schools dropping the practical arts, I think we are breeding the self-reliance right out of our kids. And if you are learning right along side him, all the better.

Well, got to go to work in a bit, but I think I'm going to take the rig out for a drive before I do. Nothing like the smell of gas, grease, paint, and fresh air to keep what's important firmly planted in your mind. Take care all.


lefty b
 
This thread should be called the "Cruiser Poets". You guys use a lot of adjectives. My two cents. I owned a Land Cruiser all through High School. I could have paid off College with all the money I spent on it. I still would not change a thing. It was a great hobby and I learned a ton about the car I drove everyday. From that I trusted that rig to take me anywhere. That confidence is what makes it for me. I have since sold that Cruiser and got married. I was Cruiserless for a few years but for some reason the bug came back. I bought three in a year. Two of them need a lot of work but that is what I really enjoy. The challenge and the satisfaction you get when you fix something.

Now for what you are describing I would spend some time behind the wheel of a 40 before you spend 15k on it. People have described it like driving a fast tractor, but a very tough reliable
tractor at that. The 40 needs a lot of upgrades to get it riding like the modern vehicle of today. That said not saying you won't enjoy it like most of us do, but get some wheel time don't by one because they look awesome. Hook up with a local club and see if someone would be kind enough to let you drive and ride in their 40 for a while.

Welcome to the addiction!
 
1975 FJ40 - Columbia, Missouri

My wife and I stopped in Columbia, MO en route to KC yesterday and spent time looking at this cruiser. My quick notes:

- totally different ride than the Moscow Mills FJ40
- the 350 definitely gives it a bit of oomph, but still not fast. Not really looking for that anyway. Was good to experience the juxtaposition with the 2F.
- disc brakes in the front, drum in the rear, took significant force on the brake pedal to stop.
- pulled to the right while braking
- steering felt possessed at speed. I suppose this is roadwalking or road wander?
- could definitely tell it felt much more stable than the higher lifted Moscow Mills. Perhaps the rear axle back 2", or the tires and wheel spacers, or a combo
- suspension seemed good

Owner got it basically in this condition 7 yrs ago. Added the ARB, dropped in the new 350, painted the rear diamond plating.

More Pics: http://sdrv.ms/15fs8PW

Full listing on SOR. http://www.sor.com/catclassified.sor

$13k OBO
1975 Toyota FJ40 Land Cruiser 4x4
This Toyota is my baby, I have taken excellent care of it, and have done a lot of work on it to make it look and run good. It is garage kept. I use it as my daily driver, it drives and handles excellent. It is ready to hit the road whether driving to work or taking it off-road. I have a Clean Title…
-around 6,000 miles on a new Chevy crate engine 290 hp 350.
-Powerjection III fuel injection.
-Chevy 5spd transmission with adapter to Toyota transfer case.
-3” rancho lift with rancho 5000 adjustable shocks.
-BFG KM2 mud terrain tires 33x12.5x15.
-2.5” wheel spacers.
-Rear axle has been moved 2” back.
-Skid plate for transfer case.
-Power steering.
-Warn 9000 Winch.
-ARB Lockers, Rear locker is installed, Front needs to be installed, I have the locker with new bearings and seals to rebuild front axle.
-ARB compressor, for lockers and for airing up tires or blow up mattress ect.
-Full roll cage, and pads.
-Hard Top with ambulance doors, Soft Top, Bikini Top, and Soft Half Doors.
-KC lights front, back-up light in rear.
-20 gal. Auxiliary tank.
-Front seats reupholstered.
-4+plus Rock rails, and Front Bumper
-Rear bumper with tow package.
-New Radiator.
-Interior floor completely rhino lined.
-Sony AM/FM CD player with USB connection for I pod.
-Hella Halogen head lights.
-Rear Heater.
-Original jack and tool pouch.
WP_20130920_14_18_46_Pro.jpg
WP_20130920_14_18_53_Pro.jpg
 
This thread should be called the "Cruiser Poets". You guys use a lot of adjectives.

I paid a lot for this English degree, I sure hope so. ;)

Now for what you are describing I would spend some time behind the wheel of a 40 before you spend 15k on it. People have described it like driving a fast tractor, but a very tough reliable tractor at that.

I've heard that description before and I think of it every time I've been at the wheel. Awesome!
 
I paid a lot for this English degree, I sure hope so. ;)

I've heard that description before and I think of it every time I've been at the wheel. Awesome!

I would decide if you want a SBC in it or not. Not all 350 swaps are created equal. I'd stick to the 2F. My 0.02
 
You guys use a lot of adjectives.

Better adjectives now than expletives later....

Not all 350 swaps are created equal.

Even though I own one (a SBC powered 40), I feel that an engine swap almost universally brings the value of a vehicle down. If you had 2 identical rigs side by side, one a SBC and the other an original 2F, the unmolested vehicle will be worth marginally more. The only time I don't think it really matters is with something like a dedicated trail rig where the value you realize is from the experience, and not the resale. I think if I were buying one today, and in the price range you're talking about, I would want it to have an F motor. Like the rig you just posted about driving, mine is headed toward the 5 speed and fuel injection, but it's too late for her to be stock :crybaby:.

lefty b
 
1974 FJ40 - Kansas City, Missouri

On our return trip through KC we stopped to visit with a 1974 FJ40 listed on CraigsList.

http://kansascity.craigslist.org/cto/4058888121.html

The owner described his cruiser as an impulse purchase. Very nice guy, as have been all the guys I've met so far.

Plenty of pics here: http://sdrv.ms/16Pzn4I

This was my first up-close with a rattle-can paint job, and by my eye not a very good one.

I've got to lock down the location of the ID tags on the frame and body. I know the tag inside the driver door, and some kind of tag below the hood. I'm looking on the frame near the passenger front and rear, but not seeing it. Of course, it could be under layers of crud.

The top is in disrepair, and secured to the body with c-clamps.

Lots of rust all over. Probably plenty of bondo, but that's speculation.

I'm not sure what to assess as rust on the bottom and frame. Obviously if the metal is eaten through, that's one thing. But rust coloration may be dirt or clay from the road? I need a better eye for the more subtle signs.

Lots of wetness down below also, which makes me think there are many issues here.

I didn't drive it. The owner says he drives it fairly regularly, but I saw enough to make me think it wasn't the safest ride, and I didn't want to waste his time.

I have a lot of sympathy for the owners I've visited with. Some have owned more than one and are enthusiasts with a depth of knowledge, while others are desperately trying to offload something they cannot care for.

And as odd as it sounds, I feel a sense of sadness leaving each one still looking for a good home.
WP_20130921_10_50_25_Pro.jpg
WP_20130921_10_50_39_Pro.jpg
 
The owner described his cruiser as an impulse purchase.

At least your impulse was correct, and that was to walk away. I just don't see the value there. The top is toast, rear sill gone, broken bolts everywhere. Maybe as a project for $3000, maybe. Don't know what he paid for it, but it had to have been too much.

Oh well, you gotta' kiss a few frogs before you find the right one. But I would keep looking at the lower-end ones, if for nothing other than the education. You could also stumble onto one that has a lot going for it, and still staying within your budget could be brought up to spec. A forty year old truck in good shape, with a busted trans, could go for a song.

Have fun with the search, it's cool to see what you're looking at.


lefty b
 

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