coleman2347
Ole Jarhead
Yep, they are most definitely on a controlled substance...nice looking 40 though
Journey to My First FJ40 (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter sypd
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
sypd said:
Toyota improved driveabilty of the 2f in '81 with different pistons, lighter valve springs and slightly different cam. The torque and power band dropped a bit and when combined with the 3:70s, makes for a very drivable rig.
My lx averages 16.5 mpg hwy, 13.5 city, a bit less with the air con going.
- Thread starter
- #63
When bidding I researched the other bidders and recall one was only bidding on FJ40s, although several, while the other was bidding on a variety of vehicles. In either case it seemed to me they must be dealer buyers. Seems I wasn't wrong.
Nothing wrong with them doing business. I just hope they don't misrepresent the 40, sell it at an inflated price, and thus encourage others to do the same making it more difficult for n00bs like me to buy-in to the party.
Some observations from the past several months shopping.
Thinking of the players in the buying game I've seen:
- dealers finding and flipping previously restored 40s.
- operations (many here on mud) hunting the neglected in order to restore and sell
- the internationals - buying in Central, South America and elsewhere primarily trying to import diesels in good shape, tuned up and sold. Some restorations, but usually as-is.
- other individuals who awake one morning with a long lasting case of FJ40 Fever. Left untreated it can become....
Who is selling?
- all the above obviously
- individuals on eBay trying to capitalize on the popularity with rigs as-is or restored within the last decade
- same as the last on CraigsList & other classifieds like SOR plus those trying to offload an as-is 40 for usually financial reasons, or loss of time/funds/passion during project
- the enthusiast with one or more FJ/BJ40s that hadn't really considered selling, but sees opportunity either to sell high or turn over and fund a new project
- Thread starter
- #64
Ok, thanks. I searched and checked the FAQ and couldn't find that detail.
Was it every 2F from '81 on or after a certain month? I'm wondering what details I can look for to determine if the 2F is one of these.
Vae Victus
Posting more than I know
And now you are writing posts on Electrolytic Conversion of Hydrated Iron Oxide (I.e. Electrolysis of your Rusty Parts)....
- Thread starter
- #66
1982 FJ40
Dear experts, what do you think of this 1982 FJ40?
http://denver.craigslist.org/cto/4095025730.html
I sent my youngest brother on a mission today to check out an FJ40 in his neck of the woods. Jon had nothing but wonderful things to say about the drive. Of course, I had him take many, many photos for me. And he did.
The whole set of photos are here: http://sdrv.ms/1bq0zvn
Owner is asking $17800 which seems really high given the condition, but perhaps I underestimate the value of the year?
The plate says Oct 1981, but I guess by then it's being considered a 1982 model year. Carfax also has records on it and it's listed and titled as a 1982.
The numbers on the door plate and the engine firewall match.
It was in California until 2001 when it went from Washington to Colorado.
Carfax reports the FJ40 was a "total loss" in 1994, perhaps due to a collision. The current owner reports it underwent a restoration 10 years ago, so it seems this coincides with the loss.
As you can see from the pics, it's in need of some love. Rust is starting to attack. I'm wondering if for the right price this might be a good deal for me. That's kind of an obvious statement: right price....good deal. But the 1982 drivability is very appealing for my use.
I've seen some project build threads here that have way more rust. Surely this rust is treatable, right? By someone skilled with metal and bodywork.
Anyway, couple questions in the photos below. All comments welcome, please.
I think I might have a mechanic check it out tomorrow.
Dear experts, what do you think of this 1982 FJ40?
http://denver.craigslist.org/cto/4095025730.html
I sent my youngest brother on a mission today to check out an FJ40 in his neck of the woods. Jon had nothing but wonderful things to say about the drive. Of course, I had him take many, many photos for me. And he did.
The whole set of photos are here: http://sdrv.ms/1bq0zvn
Owner is asking $17800 which seems really high given the condition, but perhaps I underestimate the value of the year?
The plate says Oct 1981, but I guess by then it's being considered a 1982 model year. Carfax also has records on it and it's listed and titled as a 1982.
The numbers on the door plate and the engine firewall match.
It was in California until 2001 when it went from Washington to Colorado.
Carfax reports the FJ40 was a "total loss" in 1994, perhaps due to a collision. The current owner reports it underwent a restoration 10 years ago, so it seems this coincides with the loss.
As you can see from the pics, it's in need of some love. Rust is starting to attack. I'm wondering if for the right price this might be a good deal for me. That's kind of an obvious statement: right price....good deal. But the 1982 drivability is very appealing for my use.
I've seen some project build threads here that have way more rust. Surely this rust is treatable, right? By someone skilled with metal and bodywork.
Anyway, couple questions in the photos below. All comments welcome, please.
I think I might have a mechanic check it out tomorrow.
Vae Victus
Posting more than I know
Looks pretty good.
Factory air, redone (but wrecked), interior not bad, floor boards not bad. Paint, not bad.
See how it drives. Have a mechanic check compression in engine. Check electrical. Check 4wd shifting. Regular shifting. Brakes. Acceleration, idling. Wipers.
Considerations:
1. Wrecked. Check frame for straightness.
2. Top isn't cleaning up, those look like pits in the gel coat. Wax would fill it, but the wax wasn't on the rough part either. Replacement top after the wreck perhaps.
3. Little rust seen, but under hard top and on rear sill, rust to be cleaned up. Looks surface, not too bad. Question is, how much if the body is bondo. Take a magnet, a weak one, and stick it to the body in places to find the bondo. Falls off, bondo.
4. Minor stuff: dash pad, rear upholstery, headliner, I'd check the wheels and knuckles. Front knuckles look pretty grimy. Little leak on rear diff.
5. $17,500. I'd pay $10-12K and likely be overpaying. I might miss it too, but I'm like that.
I'll make this short because I'm on my phone again (not that it's slowed me down before), but the things that jump out at me are the "total loss", or what is commonly known as a "salvage title", is a HUGE red flag to me. Yeah it's a 30+ year old rig, but what happened? Next I see a rear sill that has rust that is boiling the paint off, so that's toast. It's got a pre '77 top (no vent windows). And just a general look of not being very well maintained, with broken bolts, rusted out exhaust, funky wiring, really too much to list. And that's just from the pictures, and not from a personal inspection. It's just not the look I would expect of a of a $17k rig, and in my mind, not even close.
Might be a fantastic running rig, and with AC and power steering it's very cool. But with the way it looks I wouldn't want to spend more than $10 - $12k max.
lefty b
Might be a fantastic running rig, and with AC and power steering it's very cool. But with the way it looks I wouldn't want to spend more than $10 - $12k max.
lefty b
Salvage title really affects the value of it IMO. I wouldn't even pay $10k for it. A $17800 FJ40(any year) better have ZERO rust and a sparkling clear title.
another crack smoker
sarca
I upped my wrenchin skills, now up yours!
So, that one you posted..I believe this is how a steering stabilizer should look (on my 74) maybe im wrong and SS were attached different on later models?)
This is PS spot welds (wheel well looks funky..but its the shot angle)
And here is 2.5" Hell creek springs..(done august 2012)
Shes a bit dirty feom a wheeling adventure underneath but comparatively speaking...I paid $5k. You can do better than that one.
This is PS spot welds (wheel well looks funky..but its the shot angle)
And here is 2.5" Hell creek springs..(done august 2012)
Shes a bit dirty feom a wheeling adventure underneath but comparatively speaking...I paid $5k. You can do better than that one.
Last edited:
sarca
I upped my wrenchin skills, now up yours!
And sorry , cant figure out why mud app is such a pita with galaxy phone sometimes and flips my pics upside down @ upload.
- Thread starter
- #73
Drives and stops straight, so it seems that's ok. Thanks for the feedback.
So the rust on the rear sill thing is something I'm seeing a lot, of course. When you say "toast" are we talking about a major chop the back off and rebuild it project, or replace the whole tub?
To your point about the overall neglect of the vehicle, I agree that's a strong indication that this FJ40 has issues.
From what I understand the CO bought it 6mo ago. Carfax shows it titled in June. Family and financial circumstances are why he's selling. If he's asking $17800, he probably spent that much on it. He'll probably feel pretty insulted if I offer less than $10k and tell him why.
Like DSRTRDR says...
There's a lot of this substance abuse going around. Seems FJ40s have that effect on a LOT of people.
On a related note, we're always teaching our kids about making good decisions and delayed gratification.
This journey is my example of demonstrating these very characteristics.
Thanks, I was looking at another 1982 on eBay and realized it was probably the steering. For some reason it looked foreign in that photo.
I would love to find a solid rig for $5k. Seems most sellers currently have $$ in their eyes and even $8-10k FJ40s have rust issues, so I really want to get a solid handle on these rust issues and the cost/effort to repair.
Keeping my eyes open...
Dave-
It looks like most everyone has answered your questions. I bought an '82 and got hosed on a few things so I might be able to chime in if you have any questions about the late models and buying them If you PM I'll send you my cell and we can talk. Do a 180 when you see a salvage title, no matter what the seller says, unless he is giving it away it's not worth it. It affects insurance and over all value. When you see rust bubbling like that on the rear sill the entire thing will have to be removed and replaced. Most likely there is more rust you can't see. Unless you have body work experience (or willing to learn) I would avoid ANY 40 that requires it up front, b/c there is always rust you don't see. Late model 40s were made of thinner sheet metal, this means the floor pans rusted out like crazy. I've rarely seen one unrestored that you couldn't see the ground through. Do you require emissions testing where you live? late model 40s had a TON of emissions equipment and most of it needs to be attached and working to pass the level requirements for later years. I had to resmog mine and that is a headache I wouldn't wish on my worst enemy.
It looks like most everyone has answered your questions. I bought an '82 and got hosed on a few things so I might be able to chime in if you have any questions about the late models and buying them If you PM I'll send you my cell and we can talk. Do a 180 when you see a salvage title, no matter what the seller says, unless he is giving it away it's not worth it. It affects insurance and over all value. When you see rust bubbling like that on the rear sill the entire thing will have to be removed and replaced. Most likely there is more rust you can't see. Unless you have body work experience (or willing to learn) I would avoid ANY 40 that requires it up front, b/c there is always rust you don't see. Late model 40s were made of thinner sheet metal, this means the floor pans rusted out like crazy. I've rarely seen one unrestored that you couldn't see the ground through. Do you require emissions testing where you live? late model 40s had a TON of emissions equipment and most of it needs to be attached and working to pass the level requirements for later years. I had to resmog mine and that is a headache I wouldn't wish on my worst enemy.
- Thread starter
- #75
Thanks Adam, I may take you up on that.
I checked Missouri and it appears I don't have to do emissions pre-1996 on diesel and pre-1995 on gas. http://www.dnr.mo.gov/gatewayvip/v-owner/need-test.htm
I checked Missouri and it appears I don't have to do emissions pre-1996 on diesel and pre-1995 on gas. http://www.dnr.mo.gov/gatewayvip/v-owner/need-test.htm
Vae Victus
Posting more than I know
Yea, he's right. Salvage title bottoms out the price. Maybe you've got a ton of leverage to get it at a reasonable price IF you think it is mechanically sound. Some other ID10T will buy it at a high price probably.
Rear sill can be bought. See Awl_TEQ and his thread somewhere herein - he makes and sells a few a year for about $275 incl shipping. The, you have labor to cut out and re weld it in.
Vae Victus
Posting more than I know
Just noticed on Mark's Offroad he has a Classified's page with a couple of trucks on it. Mark is a highly respected Toyota LC used parts supplier and refurbisher.
http://www.marksoffroad.net/classifieds/Classifieds.html
The one at the top is a recent restoration done by a hobbiest (I guess). See the photos and the description link. I didn't spend too much time looking, so you can do your own homework. $19K may be a fair price if the representations are all true and done well.
You can likely try to reach Mark (who says he is very hard to reach as he is very busy), and find out more about the vehicle.
Vae
http://www.marksoffroad.net/classifieds/Classifieds.html
The one at the top is a recent restoration done by a hobbiest (I guess). See the photos and the description link. I didn't spend too much time looking, so you can do your own homework. $19K may be a fair price if the representations are all true and done well.
You can likely try to reach Mark (who says he is very hard to reach as he is very busy), and find out more about the vehicle.
Vae
- Thread starter
- #78
Thanks, that looks like well worth a deeper look!
Vae Victus
Posting more than I know
Let me restate that prior to flames from others - a price that represents the upper limit of reasonableness for this vehicle.
- Thread starter
- #80
I'm tracking with you. I doubt that'll stop anyone from lighting you up tho. lmbo
I looked it over and I'm very interested. It sounds to me like it's mechanically been cared for, updated, and even upgraded. I'd like to now how recently this work was done.
The paint is original which actually sounds awesome to me. I can see the back has some dents.
I wonder, how does one go about buying from someone like Mark. I read up on him and he's been on the scene for a long time. If he's well respected, do I take his word re: the condition? Or do I still try to get someone in the area to put eyeballs on it for me?
I should think I have to do the latter and get someone out near Burbank to give it a look. Anyone know someone out there? I'll hop over to the clubhouse section.
And if nothing else I need better photos. Those are pretty slim pickings to make any decision on. I'll see if I can get a hold of him tomorrow.
I looked it over and I'm very interested. It sounds to me like it's mechanically been cared for, updated, and even upgraded. I'd like to now how recently this work was done.
The paint is original which actually sounds awesome to me. I can see the back has some dents.
I wonder, how does one go about buying from someone like Mark. I read up on him and he's been on the scene for a long time. If he's well respected, do I take his word re: the condition? Or do I still try to get someone in the area to put eyeballs on it for me?
I should think I have to do the latter and get someone out near Burbank to give it a look. Anyone know someone out there? I'll hop over to the clubhouse section.
And if nothing else I need better photos. Those are pretty slim pickings to make any decision on. I'll see if I can get a hold of him tomorrow.
