Journey to My First FJ40 (1 Viewer)

[sypd]

Rather than post several hurried threads about different FJ40s for sale with tech questions, I figured I'd do my version of a build thread and journal the whole acquisition journey.

After all, it's likely to take a while. Each FJ40 exposes new gaps in my knowledge.

It was September 23, 2008, slightly a year after the first iPhone was released, when my obsession with the FJ40 made itself known. I was driving down Wildhorse Creek Road in Chesterfield, Missouri when I saw this in front of me.

Pics: http://sdrv.ms/16i0oKJ

Can you sense my panic? It's a wonder I didn't drive into the ditch.

To this day I look in that gas station for that FJ40... and chastise myself for not stopping and interrogating the owner.

 

[sypd]

September of this year I started my search in earnest for my own FJ40. I work from home (or any nearby coffee shop) and don't drive much, as my low mile 2005 Mini Cooper S cabrio can attest.

Labor Day. A 40 minute drive north of St. Louis brought me to my first hands-on experience with an FJ40. So pretty. Too pretty.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/767304-my-first-fj40-drive-shopping-experience.html

Pics: http://sdrv.ms/1a1YnGy

The owner was a really nice guy, but couldn't offer much information about the cruiser. It's at this point I realize how much I value having as much history and documentation about the rig I'm going to buy as possible.

Frame looked scary. Doors didn't fit - major gaps. The ride was ok, but I didn't care of the lift and it felt tippy.

As was pointed out, it had a replacement Aqualu aluminum tub.

http://www.aqualu.com/fj40-bodies--cowls.html

I don't like how it marries up with the firewall. Perhaps that's shoddy work?

Net result, the trip was a success. My love of the FJ40 is confirmed. Onward to find another target.

 

[sypd]

I'm watching like a hawk: eBay, CraigsList, the classifieds here on the forum…

I'm thinking a frame off restoration with updated transmission, drivetrain may be the ticket for me. 60-70mph would be ideal for some of the roads I travel several times a week.

This "1974" restoration caught my eye.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/769788-checking-out-1974-restoration.html

I asked the owner tons of questions and he had tons of answers. 30 yrs of restoring FJ40s, Land Rovers, and Jeeps with his salvage business, he was the mirror opposite of the other owner I had just spoken to; a wealth of information, photographs of the process, etc.

This rig was pulled together from various donors; not ideal perhaps, but it seemed to meet my criteria.

This was my first encounter with the Fairey overdrive. He said he rarely used it and the gearing without it was sufficient for higher speeds at low rpms (he swapped a 1979 drivetrain). Even so, he said he's worked with the US Fairey support people that still do work on them, and Land Rovers seemed to have more problems with them than the FJ40s.

Found several threads about the Fairey unit, history and complaints.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/30958-fairey-overdrive.html

Started learning about soft tops and yet more acronyms (FST = Factory Soft Top) for the Fj40.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/247086-post-pics-your-oem-reproduction-top-fj4xs.html

https://forum.ih8mud.com/trollholes-cruisers/753226-factory-fj40-soft-tops-bikini-tops-dusters.html

And someone named Ehsan seems to make a nice top. You'll see his name everywhere on the forums. He seems a bit like the Keyser Söze of soft tops. Is he real?! hehe

Digging into Land Cruiser History
https://forum.ih8mud.com/fj25-owners-group/183011-toyota-historical-data.html


The bidding was on. I had the green light from my wife. I tried to persuade the owner to just sell to me and end the auction, but there were other bidders so he let it continue. It was worth a try I suppose.

In the end I was outbid. Those last few minutes of an auction are a rush. This could become a dangerous habit.

I decided to stick with my cap and not go higher. I have patience, and it seems that whether pursuing a new cruiser or restoring one, this is an invaluable quality.

 

[sypd]

Ok, time to confess if it's not already apparent. I know next to nothing about how vehicles work. I write code. Time to level up my knowledge. Surely this won't be as hard as learning Objective-C or Java.

Once upon a time I changed my own oil, replaced brake pads on a Honda Civic, and replaced a timing belt in a 90 Miata. Clearly I have a way to go.

What's a differential?
http://www.geek.com/geek-cetera/a-brilliant-explanation-of-how-a-cars-differential-works-1450429/ <- awesome video, on my level, haha

(loads of old auto videos http://www.youtube.com/user/USAutoIndustry?feature=watch)

What's a transmission exactly?
http://www.carbibles.com/transmission_bible.html
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QPaUJfA1KsY

What determines the gearing, gear ratio?
http://www.wikihow.com/Determine-Gear-Ratio

Gear Ratio and Tires
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/auto-...wing/maneuvers/gear-ratio-tire-size-chart.htm

Best for highway speeds?
3.70:1 with 33" tires can do 70mpg at 2800rpm
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/649898-79-fj40-new-gears-od-speed.html
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/274883-78-fj40-gear-ratio.html
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/594524-fj40-max-cruising-speed.html
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/565291-fj40-mostly-highway-driving-recommendation.html

H55/splitcase combo ??

I hit the highway only occasionally. It would just be nice to not ride in the right lane the whole way.

 

[sypd]

Back on the prowl I'm not seeing any frame off restorations that I fancy, but this 1982 "very original" FJ40 keeps coming up on eBay and in the classifieds. Maybe I should be open to this path.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/fj40-bj40/766025-1982-fj40-very-original-some-upgrades.html

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1982...e=STRK:MEWAX:IT&forcev4exp=true#ht_500wt_1182

Big questions for me start with the body work.

How do you repair the rivet holes left behind by the diamond plating?

What would the best course of action be for the rust on the rear sill and bottom of the doors? Is this best left until a full frame off or is there something that could be done in the interim?

And if that's going on at the body level, is there any reason not to suspect the frame and internals have some rust issues that will be uncovered over time and definitely during a frame off?

It seems like this FJ40 has received good care at a shop that knows their stuff. That should count for something

New-to-me stuff:

OME (Old Man Emu) Suspension
http://www.oldmanemu.com.au/
more for offroad

Shackle Reversal
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/515399-why-shackle-reversal.html
- better handling at high speeds, though the benefits seem in dispute
http://rustybrain.com/cruisers/faq.txt look for section 19.8

What are the advantages/disadvantages of a Spring Over Axel (SOA) suspension?
- Offroad - I will take this on a trail, but I'm getting too adventurous
http://www.ih8mud.com/tech/soa/1.html

Now I'm thinking I want SUA and a 2.5"-3" lift.

Tires?
I've come to the conclusion that I love the look of 33" BFG MT's. Like I dream about them. This is normal, right?

I'm starting to ask around about body shops that do restoration work and have found a couple in St. Louis. I don't mind driving with a little character on my Fj40 for a while. Just need to know what the future fix is going to look like.

 

[JohnnyC]

And someone named Ehsan seems to make a nice top. You'll see his name everywhere on the forums. He seems a bit like the Keyser Söze of soft tops. Is he real?! hehe.

yes very real... for the longest time he was the only game in town for the OEM style tops... for years if you wanted one... it would take YEARS before finding one.

I looked for years... YEARS... then...thru a friend in Oz ... Marv (SOR) hooked me up with a set from a 64' ... the only place to find canvas was kayline. they soon closed shop/sold buisness and later totally out of existance.

Ehsan is from Pakistan, and x-ray tech, does a side buisness of finding guys to be making parts for our 40's ... he doesnt even have a cruiser ... he drive a $%^& full size Cherokee.

I had many dealings with Ehsan in several ways... always professional and considerate and willing to try new things.

The transportation of the tops were the biggest obstacle ... it would take WELL over a year from group order to your door... SouthbostonFJ had lots of dealings with ehsan trying to make his product more redially available ... however... quality sliped and other soft top endevers started poping up... havent heard too much from Ehsan... but... he's still there ... and still wheeling.

@ Ehsan ... don't be a stranger... say Hi some time

 

[AdamKFarmer]

Once you get the basics down I would determine what year range you were looking for. You can get an FJ40 from the late 60s to mid 70s a lot cheaper than you can get the later models. This has to do with availability (# shipped to the states) and the popularity. Lots of people prefer the 4.11s over the 3.73s (gear ratios in the differentials) for wheeling, while the later 2Fs are more popular, well with the emissions stuff removed. You have a lot to consider, also you price range as well. Look for one with the least amount of rust, if you see a little there is always more.

 

[kruisinkid]

as a 2 month old 40 owner and ebay guru, i can offer these suggestions:
-decide on a specific year or range
- decide on a specific max number you want to spend
-if you dont want it shipped and want to go pick it up, you can choose how far away you want the car to be on the ebay search
-buy it now vs. auction only (i would stay away from BIN, they almost always want more than what its worth)

create and save a search with all of these specifics and then set it up in MyeBay to email you every morning of new listings. if you use the app for the phone, you can turn alerts for saved searches on there as well and it will buzz you as soon as one pops up. a good ad should have at least 20 pictures. if it doesnt, ask for more. ESPECIALLY of pics from under the vehicle. 20K is a lot of money and should buy you something you will have little to fix up. paint should be pristine, frame painted/sealed, new/current suspension, stuff like that. good luck. it will def be the right one when it happens, whenever it happens.

 

[sypd]

yes very real...

I have no doubt. lol

... he doesnt even have a cruiser ... he drive a $%^& full size Cherokee.

Noooo! I used to drive a Cherokee Sport and my dad had several Chiefs, but darn it if I don't get spiritually sick every time in pass a Heep... which is often. Everyone has one. *sigh*

 

[JohnnyC]

Shhhhhhh

I had a 1979 full size two door Cherokee ... It got me two point away from loosing my license LOL

Such a fun thing to beat up offroad ...

I NEEDED something much slower however

 

[sypd]

Once you get the basics down I would determine what year range you were looking for. You can get an FJ40 from the late 60s to mid 70s a lot cheaper than you can get the later models. .... Look for one with the least amount of rust, if you see a little there is always more.

Thanks, great advice. I've been all over the board on the year range. I quite like the older years, especially the goofy rear gate. Is there any downsides to a 60-74 as a daily driver? Maybe with the right gearing and suspension it's all the same as a later model.

Rust - yes, that's the understanding I'm operating under. I find it odd to see one with rust asking an opening bid of 16k. I'm sure he has solid justifications, but for me I can't see going in on that.

As has been pointed out to me before, I can hold out for one that's rust free.

as a 2 month old 40 owner and ebay guru, i can offer these suggestions:
-decide on a specific year or range
- decide on a specific max number you want to spend
-if you dont want it shipped and want to go pick it up, you can choose how far away you want the car to be on the ebay search
-buy it now vs. auction only (i would stay away from BIN, they almost always want more than what its worth)

create and save a search with all of these specifics and then set it up in MyeBay to email you every morning of new listings. if you use the app for the phone, you can turn alerts for saved searches on there as well and it will buzz you as soon as one pops up. a good ad should have at least 20 pictures. if it doesnt, ask for more. ESPECIALLY of pics from under the vehicle. 20K is a lot of money and should buy you something you will have little to fix up. paint should be pristine, frame painted/sealed, new/current suspension, stuff like that. good luck. it will def be the right one when it happens, whenever it happens.

Excellent eBay advice, thanks! I've got a saved search, but no alerts setup...I'll do that. I've data mined the completed listing search and sold search...even have a spreadsheet going to track sale prices, condition, etc. I'm seeing several re-list after not selling.

I'm already figuring to have it shipped. I doubt I'll find one nearby, but maybe something will popup in KC or Chicago. We shall see. I'm already leaning on friends and family in Cali to have a look at possibilities.

 

[sypd]

I've been unable to find a good answer to this on the forums or google, and I have no body repair experience....so I may be searching the wrong keywords altogether.

How do you repair rivet holes like those left behind by the diamond plating?

 

[kruisinkid]

yes searching completed listings to get a baseline is an excellent idea i forgot to mention. heres a baseline: i let an auction go for a 76 i think that had a brand new factory color paint job and the whole frame had been coated twice in POR15 and then painted. i think it had a recent 2.5" lift, new tires, mechanical was a 6.5 out of 10 probably. sold for 11K. at the time that was a little too steep for me.

you gotta nail down a year or small range down and hold out or your head will be spinning looking and thinking of every possiblity. my very first foray into buying one was the google seach "best year for fj40" and the first result was a good one...right here on MUD! everyone in the thread chimed in with differences for the diff years. the average opinion seemed to be some where between 76 and 79. and in those 4 years, a mile long list of differences, some major (power steering, front disc, etc...). so figuring out what year will massively narrow the search.

 

[kruisinkid]

I've been unable to find a good answer to this on the forums or google, and I have no body repair experience....so I may be searching the wrong keywords altogether.

How do you repair rivet holes like those left behind by the diamond plating?

welding or bondo, or if youre OCD like me, replace the whole panel (mine have other issues as well)

 

[kruisinkid]

the bottom 3 holes on that green cruiser are for the spare tire carrier i think.
EDIT: it helps to look at the other half of the pic and see the spare tire carrier. but i also kinda think now that quarter panel is from a later 40. im still pretty new at this too :/

 

[DSRTRDR]

why don't you join your local cruiser club and see who is selling their rig ?

probably the easiest way to get history and info on a rig - that said, I bought my 40 sight unseen from one lousy pic in the TruckTrader and a good feeling about the seller when I talked to him on the phone

 

[sypd]

why don't you join your local cruiser club and see who is selling their rig ?

probably the easiest way to get history and info on a rig - that said, I bought my 40 sight unseen from one lousy pic in the TruckTrader and a good feeling about the seller when I talked to him on the phone

Evidently there's a Gateway Cruisers club, but if they are very active it's hard to see. I'll reach out in the club forum and see if it's just a well kept secret.

I know we have other enthusiast clubs around...I happened upon a lot of money hanging out recently at Sonic -> http://sdrv.ms/189Vly0

 

[toomanytoyzz]

When my obsession on these fine machines started over twenty years ago I was pro ambi doors, and wouldn't even entertain the thought of owning a pre 1976 FJ40 (I know '75's had ambi doors, but not disc brakes). Times for me have certainly changed. After all the mods, bumpers, armor, drivertrain swaps etc. I have done (sometimes failed) I am slowly becoming more of a purist at heart. Don't get me wrong, I love seeing one on the trails with 38's spinning all 4 tires up a rock ledge, but when I spot (which is rare in my neck of the woods) a true survivor pass me on the road I need an appointment with my chiropractor for a neck adjustment.

Whatever year you decide to get I would highly recommend hitting up one of the many knowledgeable members here who may live local to the vehicle you are interested in. This could save you thousands and thousand of dollars as well as all the aggravation from buying a polished turd.

 

[sypd]

Whatever year you decide to get I would highly recommend hitting up one of the many knowledgeable members here who may live local to the vehicle you are interested in. This could save you thousands and thousand of dollars as well as all the aggravation from buying a polished turd.

I most certainly plan to! I love the offers I've seen from members. I suppose it's akin to freely spending someone else's money. Ha!

 

[sypd]

I'm looking for solid info on the motivation behind moving the rear axle back, other than cosmetic b/c another mod to suspension may have force it forward. Is there a functional benefit here?