Joining the ranks...with an 04! (1 Viewer)

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So I ran into a little problem with my truck, I hope someone can help me with this so I wouldn't have to do too much research and waste too much time trying to figure out the issue. I did a bunch of reading last night and I have an idea what may be the culprit but here goes.
I bought a camper trailer and the morons at the rv place installed a brake controller. After like 3 hours hey pulled the truck out and I have no headlights, lows, highs, driving lights, fog lights, dash lights. Everything in the truck is working. I have turn and stop, hazard and reverse. Fuses are good. Also the steering wheel tilt tele. is not working either. I brought them a working truck and left there with no lights. Brought it to their attention but had to leave due to running out of daylight. I checked their work upon getting home and looks like they tapped at the brake pedal for the signal and connected to battery for power. The 7 pin was hacked to allow controller to be wired in. I am thinking they did not disconnect the battery and they ruined my relays. Can that be the problem? Are they replaceable, because I read on the forum that the bottom section of the fuse box has relays embedded and that they are un-replaceable, unless the whole unit is replaced. Can u please enlighten me???
 
Oh, and ofcourse, mandatory picture.
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Problem solved! Found a connector disconnected under the dash.
Carry on...
 
@mongoose2231 i just read your write up and finding it very helpful. I will be seeking for your guidance very soon as I will perform the nerve racking task of replacing the timing belt and water pump on my 2006 with 234k mi on it.

According to the sticker, last time it was replaced was:
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Thank you in advance.
 
It is nerve racking! Changing the belt... but easy.
Common sense wins the day. I am sure you will do just fine.
 
So I have a question. I have been trying to undo what Camping World has done, namely, remove the brake controller they installed so I can do the plug and play version, the wireless one. I hate the fact that they installed that archaic piece of crap in my truck. Anyway, I ordered a unit from amazon and I am now trying to source the tow harness (7 PIN factory wire harness ) which they butchered and threw away, so that I can get back to stock. I have been doing some reading in the FSM and I found that the truck has a built in brake controller. Is that the case? Should I simply scrap everything and just connect the truck to my camper and go? I am thinking it's a junction/ connector that allows a brake controller be installed.
See attached.
Thank you.
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So I took a couple hours today to undo the controller that canping world hacked into my truck and do a wireless controller I had previously purchased. I had one thing to do though, and that is, to rebuild my factory 7 way that they cut up. Its now working great, and truck is back to stocj.
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Today I washed my truck after not having done so for a very long time. I went ahead and tried cleaning the gunk above the rear lift gate. Long story short, i pulled the rubber seal and the lower plastic trim. Low and behold...
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Yes, a bit of rust. I cleaned it with sand paper and then gave it two coats of rust converter.

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And the final product.
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I also had a small spot on the right side by the lower connecting point for the hatch strut. Did not photograph that. When I was done, I realized that the damn license plate lights will need some attention as well. I see a tiny bit of bubing happening there.
And here it is in all its glory.

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Over the 4th of July weekend, my brother made a doozie and cracked my rear pass tail light.
With that came a bit of damage to the bumper. I think I can leave with the bumper but the light needs replacing.
Got an OEM light off ebay, and just got it installed. Can't believe how easy it was too!! Almost took the whole car apart before I said to my self, let me see how this is done. 2 screws and a light tap of the palm of the hand and the light pops right out.
Kudos to Toyota for the intelligent design.
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Gents and ladies, I have a new update here and a question. I am due for inspection and my front wheel bearings were a little loose. I found them hand tight on the passenger side and they seem to be even worse on the driver's side. Problem is I could not remove the splined hub flange off the end of the axle on the driver's side. The splines seem to be twisted along the axle shaft, falling out of alignment with the ones past the C-clip. Now I know many of you ran into this issue, and I was wondering do you go about fixing this other than cutting the end of the axle off and scrapping it then replacing the whole thing?
Any ideas?
I personally was thinking to flatten some of the splines that do not align via file and maybe it will work like that, while also salvaging and reusing the axle.
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So yesterdayI employed the use of a puller and managed to get the drive flange off. Wasn't pleasant, whatever I found in there! I am inclined to believe that whenever a service was performed on the vehicle, the drive flange gasket was never put back, replaced. It's scary to think, since this truck has always been serviced at Toyota, according to the paperwork.
Check out this mess!
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Now, the passenger side was in great shape. What was meant to be a quick bearing check and adjustment turned into about $700 worth of repairs in parts only! I am glad I opened it up though, could have been worse.
 
Got the axle out yesterday. Made sure to buy a ball join extractor. Hammering gets old quick after having done it so many times like that. The new axle will be here today. I will have this rolling and back on the road in no time.
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Then off to inspection. My rack is a little leaky. I really don't want to mess with replacing that. Sheesh, I have seen some writeups. Sounds like a nightmare.
 
I have an 04 that looks identical to yours. Thanks for posting all these detailed pics and notes on repairs etc. I definitely will be using your Eastwood Rust Encapsulaor on my lift gate. I was thinking about trying POR-15 on mine but may try Eastwood first.
 
Hey, thanks for the reply there. These trucks are pretty stout. Occasionally, they need some maintenance. The axle issue came about because a gasket was omitted by whomever done service in the past.
For 260k miles, this thing is doing pretty well.
As far as the rust encapsulator, I think it works real well. Let's see how well it lasts.
 
And just as I was pressing the post reply button on my last post, this arrived!
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After I am done with work today, this thing is gonna be in place pulling duty.
I love new parts!
Makes me feel like it's Christmas...
 
Done the deed and finished her up. Glad to report that the clank I had before is gone. It was definitely between the damaged axle and drive flange.
I have taken only a couple pics.
I also greased both drive shafts real good.
Truck is amazing!
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I have replaced the upper ball joint boot, as it was bad as well. I like the fact that those rubber boots can be bought separately.
This is not the end though, I need to replace the sway bar links' bushings as well. Check my shocks and such.
This truck does towing duty, so I need it be in top notch shape. Although we only tow our 3k lbs camper three or four times a year.
 

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