nice 80 john!
Johnvee's 80 thread (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter JohnVee
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- Thread starter
- #42
I had some extra time at the shop today while I waited for a work problem that never happened so I did some troubleshooting/repair...
1. My CDL switch/7-Pin Mod was a little suspect last time out in the dirt. I couldn't tell if it was ever engaging and there was no idiot light telling me that it was. Today I ran tight circles in a large gravel parking lot with the switch engaged and not engaged. Couldn't tell if there was an actual difference so I went back to the garage and jacked it up on the front right side. Put it Neutral (safely on a jack stand and with wheels choked) and tried to turn the tire - turned freely. Then I turned the key to ON (not Start) and hit the CDL switch in 4H...couldn't turn the tire. This meant that the CDL was engaging. I repeated the process by disengaging the CDL then shifting to 4L. The 7-Pin Mod meant that I could turn the tire freely again until I engaged the CDL switch (as it bypasses the "auto CDL in 4L" behavior). The CDL locked in 4L, too.
****(this next part is best done when the vehicle is no longer hot from driving. 45 minutes was barely enough!)****
This made me go down and pull the 4WD Indicator Switch connector so I could jump the terminals to test for a bad dashboard indicator bulb. A paperclip inserted into the terminals (key in ON position) activated the light so that ruled out the bulb. I then unscrewed the actual 4WD-IS and tested continuity with a multimeter (set to Continuity) both open and closed. It wasn't getting continuity in the ON position. I was able to easily cycle the switch with my thumb so I used some contact cleaner while cycling it for a minute or so. I then hit it with some WD40 and cycled another minute. The male harness connectors are tiny and too deeply recessed to easily get to with an abrasive cloth so I just used a small flathead screwdriver to scrape them and then applied some dielectric grease with the same screwdriver. Hooked it all back up and cycled the CDL switch a a few times. The dash light now functions fine and everything is as it should be.
2. The bad news: My elockers still just flash without engaging. A second trip to the gravel lot with a known functioning CDL didn't do anything for them. I had hoped that 10 minutes of figure 8's would be enough to exercise them but that's not the case. I ran out of time today to dig into them but it shouldn't be too difficult - I just need the time. Maybe they'll work tomorrow at URE.
3. I also started an occasional REALLY rough idle and threw a CEL #26 today. #26 = Rich Mixture. I guess I'll look into that soon.
4. The new unmounted spare that I had mounted (on factory rim) a few months ago proved to be 0-PSI 2 weeks ago. I filled it to 40-PSI and it's now down to 10-PSI. I guess I'll dunk it the kiddie pool when my neighbor goes out of town and see where the bubbles come from.
5. There's water getting in the left side storage area where the jack is. It actually fills the jack tray during a heavy rain. I'm thinking it's the sliding window mechanism but will also check the sunroof drain on that side. There are lots of threads on this.
6. The heat shield on my catalytic converter has come loose on one side. It rattles like hell from 1700-2000rpm. I'm not sure how much good the HS does but I figured I'd rather leave it on for now so I simply secured it with a large hose clamp leaving enough slack for heat expansion. It was so nice to be quiet on the ride home from work today.
--john
1. My CDL switch/7-Pin Mod was a little suspect last time out in the dirt. I couldn't tell if it was ever engaging and there was no idiot light telling me that it was. Today I ran tight circles in a large gravel parking lot with the switch engaged and not engaged. Couldn't tell if there was an actual difference so I went back to the garage and jacked it up on the front right side. Put it Neutral (safely on a jack stand and with wheels choked) and tried to turn the tire - turned freely. Then I turned the key to ON (not Start) and hit the CDL switch in 4H...couldn't turn the tire. This meant that the CDL was engaging. I repeated the process by disengaging the CDL then shifting to 4L. The 7-Pin Mod meant that I could turn the tire freely again until I engaged the CDL switch (as it bypasses the "auto CDL in 4L" behavior). The CDL locked in 4L, too.
****(this next part is best done when the vehicle is no longer hot from driving. 45 minutes was barely enough!)****
This made me go down and pull the 4WD Indicator Switch connector so I could jump the terminals to test for a bad dashboard indicator bulb. A paperclip inserted into the terminals (key in ON position) activated the light so that ruled out the bulb. I then unscrewed the actual 4WD-IS and tested continuity with a multimeter (set to Continuity) both open and closed. It wasn't getting continuity in the ON position. I was able to easily cycle the switch with my thumb so I used some contact cleaner while cycling it for a minute or so. I then hit it with some WD40 and cycled another minute. The male harness connectors are tiny and too deeply recessed to easily get to with an abrasive cloth so I just used a small flathead screwdriver to scrape them and then applied some dielectric grease with the same screwdriver. Hooked it all back up and cycled the CDL switch a a few times. The dash light now functions fine and everything is as it should be.
2. The bad news: My elockers still just flash without engaging. A second trip to the gravel lot with a known functioning CDL didn't do anything for them. I had hoped that 10 minutes of figure 8's would be enough to exercise them but that's not the case. I ran out of time today to dig into them but it shouldn't be too difficult - I just need the time. Maybe they'll work tomorrow at URE.
3. I also started an occasional REALLY rough idle and threw a CEL #26 today. #26 = Rich Mixture. I guess I'll look into that soon.
4. The new unmounted spare that I had mounted (on factory rim) a few months ago proved to be 0-PSI 2 weeks ago. I filled it to 40-PSI and it's now down to 10-PSI. I guess I'll dunk it the kiddie pool when my neighbor goes out of town and see where the bubbles come from.
5. There's water getting in the left side storage area where the jack is. It actually fills the jack tray during a heavy rain. I'm thinking it's the sliding window mechanism but will also check the sunroof drain on that side. There are lots of threads on this.
6. The heat shield on my catalytic converter has come loose on one side. It rattles like hell from 1700-2000rpm. I'm not sure how much good the HS does but I figured I'd rather leave it on for now so I simply secured it with a large hose clamp leaving enough slack for heat expansion. It was so nice to be quiet on the ride home from work today.
--john
Sounds like some time well spent yesterday. I imagine those watching you drive figure eights in the gravel lot yesterday thought you had finally lost your mind.
I hope you can sort out the lockers soon and quickly.
I hope you can sort out the lockers soon and quickly.
jfz80
Cruisin’
Zero psi in the tire...... I've had that problem before LOL
Good news is your efforts seemed to pay off as I saw that lil light on your dash was solid and you made Dutch John look way easy
I had the same thing happen on my cat shield and the cheapo hose clamp i used failed shortly after install ( rusted and broke). I used a self tapping Sheet Metal screw in the corner to join the halves. Before that it was shove a pebble in there to keep the halves apart. But sounded like the fix was working today. I never heard it and know that sound well. Same rpm range I had.
My sliding windows leak and give me same puddle in the jack bracket so is suspect windows first. Time for wagon gear pop out mod. But for the sunroof try some weed eater line. Just be careful to not separate the drain tube inside a pillar.
Making good progress it looks like. Keep it up that's a sweet rig you... I mean Sarah has there
Good news is your efforts seemed to pay off as I saw that lil light on your dash was solid and you made Dutch John look way easy
I had the same thing happen on my cat shield and the cheapo hose clamp i used failed shortly after install ( rusted and broke). I used a self tapping Sheet Metal screw in the corner to join the halves. Before that it was shove a pebble in there to keep the halves apart. But sounded like the fix was working today. I never heard it and know that sound well. Same rpm range I had.
My sliding windows leak and give me same puddle in the jack bracket so is suspect windows first. Time for wagon gear pop out mod
. But for the sunroof try some weed eater line. Just be careful to not separate the drain tube inside a pillar. Making good progress it looks like. Keep it up that's a sweet rig you... I mean Sarah has there
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alk747triodad
SILVER Star
What, no pics Mr Free? It didn't happen...
There is a switch on the transfer case passanger side. That swith was stuck when i got it. I took ot out and clean it and worked fine. You must likely will have to get one or do the same i did. I you need to use it right away. Crawl under there, disconnect the switch and jump the wires. That will foul the computer and let you use the locker
- Thread starter
- #47
Today was a winner of a day. All the locker exercise at NC Music Factory on Wednesday must have paid off because they clicked right on when I hit the switch today. The CDL light started out sketchy but it was obviously engaging and it all worked fine by lunch. I was amazed at what I could do in 4H with CDL engaged. A shift to 4L was most often done because I ran out of power in 4H. Maybe I should've just turned off the AC!
I did use the lockers a few times but I think they only really mattered on the muddy climb up Dutch John to keep me out of the wall; I mainly just wanted to use them to give them a workout.
I've gotta give credit to the Hankook Dynapro Mt's... They did awesome again at 15PSI. I think they shed mud easier than the KM2's that Jason and Rice had but I could be wrong or it could be my 80+% tread vs their <=50%. I'll try upping the PSI until they don't work so well.
Most of the bridges were pretty tore up. I can't remember trail names.
Trails were pretty clean. We probably got one full bag of trash between us, so I guess they're even cleaner now.
I forget what kind of air compressor I have but it earned its keep today for one of our convoy (not me).
So, Sarah's 80 returned home almost unscathed and only slightly dirtier than she left it last week. I did manage to drive straight into a boulder but it must've hit the ARB in the previous ding since I couldn't find a fresh wound. My buddy's son had a great time riding along on his first trip. I was just happy that he had patience with us old folks and didn't have access to a phone or video games for a day.
I did use the lockers a few times but I think they only really mattered on the muddy climb up Dutch John to keep me out of the wall; I mainly just wanted to use them to give them a workout.
I've gotta give credit to the Hankook Dynapro Mt's... They did awesome again at 15PSI. I think they shed mud easier than the KM2's that Jason and Rice had but I could be wrong or it could be my 80+% tread vs their <=50%. I'll try upping the PSI until they don't work so well.
Most of the bridges were pretty tore up. I can't remember trail names.
Trails were pretty clean. We probably got one full bag of trash between us, so I guess they're even cleaner now.
I forget what kind of air compressor I have but it earned its keep today for one of our convoy (not me).
So, Sarah's 80 returned home almost unscathed and only slightly dirtier than she left it last week. I did manage to drive straight into a boulder but it must've hit the ARB in the previous ding since I couldn't find a fresh wound. My buddy's son had a great time riding along on his first trip. I was just happy that he had patience with us old folks and didn't have access to a phone or video games for a day.
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jfz80
Cruisin’
ah ya beat me to it.... the superflow i blelieve
yes in Johns build there is an air compressor involved. It saved the day but we'll keep details to the day trip thread to not hijack here. However it made it clear that onboard air of some kind made its way to the "short list" of items to have.
oh and check the diff/housing for that "bumper" noise
its ok I cant go 4.88 without some massaging either
and kenny it did happen..... https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=8598708&postcount=10
yes in Johns build there is an air compressor involved. It saved the day but we'll keep details to the day trip thread to not hijack here. However it made it clear that onboard air of some kind made its way to the "short list" of items to have.
oh and check the diff/housing for that "bumper" noise
its ok I cant go 4.88 without some massaging either
and kenny it did happen..... https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=8598708&postcount=10
- Thread starter
- #49
I've been PB soaking the 12 important bolts involved in raising the spare tire hanger for 5 days. Last night I got to dropping the assembly to begin the mod. 6 bolts hold the 2 brackets to the frame. 5 came off easily and one had a stripped bolt head - a recip saw took care of that.
A different 6 bolts hold the hanger member to the 2 brackets. 1 came out easily and 5 snapped off within the first turn of the wrench. Those remaining pieces are going to soak in the ATF/Acetone mixture for a few days before I attempt to finish the job.
I'm hoping to start the drawer system install this week. I've got ideas but no plans. My goal is to start with the carcasses and go from there. The 2nd row seats are already out so that will help speed things up. Can't wait.
--john
A different 6 bolts hold the hanger member to the 2 brackets. 1 came out easily and 5 snapped off within the first turn of the wrench. Those remaining pieces are going to soak in the ATF/Acetone mixture for a few days before I attempt to finish the job.
I'm hoping to start the drawer system install this week. I've got ideas but no plans. My goal is to start with the carcasses and go from there. The 2nd row seats are already out so that will help speed things up. Can't wait.
--john
- Thread starter
- #50
Hi Beam Switch Replacement
Done last month. See my how-to starting on post #11...
No high beam
--john
Done last month. See my how-to starting on post #11...
No high beam
--john
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sarca
I upped my wrenchin skills, now up yours!
Nice work John! Youve been busy!
- Thread starter
- #53
Sliders!
I finally got around, last month, to picking up the Slee's. They were slightly used and had some small scrapes. I was gonna just bolt them on as is but I got tired of looking at them while I waited for new mounting hardware so they got a clean, scuff, primer and some satin black. I have 2 sets of front and rear flare caps but haven't decided to run them or not (might ditch the flares).
Thanks to Eric and David for taking the time to lend a hand on the install. We also extended some breathers on our various trucks. I opted for the fuel filler neck termination on my rear diff, in case you're interested.
I finally got around, last month, to picking up the Slee's. They were slightly used and had some small scrapes. I was gonna just bolt them on as is but I got tired of looking at them while I waited for new mounting hardware so they got a clean, scuff, primer and some satin black. I have 2 sets of front and rear flare caps but haven't decided to run them or not (might ditch the flares).
Thanks to Eric and David for taking the time to lend a hand on the install. We also extended some breathers on our various trucks. I opted for the fuel filler neck termination on my rear diff, in case you're interested.
- Thread starter
- #54
Rear Window Belt Molding Leak Repair
There was water leaking into the rear quarter panels. I'd heard and seen all kinds of "answers" to fix it but I decided to start with the belt molding based on some threads I'd read here.
It was pretty easy. Remove the end caps, open the rear side door, slide the belt towards the front. This will expose 4 white plastic tabs used to locate and secure the belt. They appear kind of fragile. It looks like there was originally a paper or felt gasket under each tab; I think these missing gaskets are what let the water in. I used a glob of black RTV under each tab then slid the belt back on and replaced the end caps. No more leaks and the carpet stays dry.
Ignore the nut and screws in the last pic - they're for the next post.
There was water leaking into the rear quarter panels. I'd heard and seen all kinds of "answers" to fix it but I decided to start with the belt molding based on some threads I'd read here.
It was pretty easy. Remove the end caps, open the rear side door, slide the belt towards the front. This will expose 4 white plastic tabs used to locate and secure the belt. They appear kind of fragile. It looks like there was originally a paper or felt gasket under each tab; I think these missing gaskets are what let the water in. I used a glob of black RTV under each tab then slid the belt back on and replaced the end caps. No more leaks and the carpet stays dry.
Ignore the nut and screws in the last pic - they're for the next post.
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- Thread starter
- #55
Rear Window Vent Repair
The plastic vent at the back of the rear window was also suggested as a possible source of leaks so I thought I'd investigate. There's a bolt molded in to the bottom of the plastic vent that secures with a nut (7mm?) inside the rear quarter panel. You need to take out the interior panel to access it. Remove the nut and push it through the body panel. Then try to figure out how to remove the vent piece from its two white mounting tabs. You'll probably break one of the two
. The tabs are push tabs that secure pretty damn tightly into the body. My tab retainers on the vent piece were already broken so I was able to remove the vent without pulling the tabs.
Once removed, it was obvious that my vent gaskets were toast. The inner flap housing gasket was still good. I reinstalled the vent without the gasket, just some RTV around the crumbling bolt gasket. No leaks.
The plastic vent at the back of the rear window was also suggested as a possible source of leaks so I thought I'd investigate. There's a bolt molded in to the bottom of the plastic vent that secures with a nut (7mm?) inside the rear quarter panel. You need to take out the interior panel to access it. Remove the nut and push it through the body panel. Then try to figure out how to remove the vent piece from its two white mounting tabs. You'll probably break one of the two
. The tabs are push tabs that secure pretty damn tightly into the body. My tab retainers on the vent piece were already broken so I was able to remove the vent without pulling the tabs.Once removed, it was obvious that my vent gaskets were toast. The inner flap housing gasket was still good. I reinstalled the vent without the gasket, just some RTV around the crumbling bolt gasket. No leaks.
Ummm, no - but it's a solid start
Hey, unrelated - but wanted to make sure you got your meat thermo. back. I should have delivered it back to you myself since I was the one that asked for it, but got sidetracked.
R- Thread starter
- #58
Ummm, no - but it's a solid start
Hey, unrelated - but wanted to make sure you got your meat thermo. back. I should have delivered it back to you myself since I was the one that asked for it, but got sidetracked.
Yes. Thanks. And I really need to step up and contribute to the 'food for the masses' effort next time to take some pressure off of you and Brian. I'll put some thought to the xmas party...
- Thread starter
- #59
Some of you know that the 80 left me stranded in my driveway the morning of the Veteran's Day URE trip. Trans cooler line blew. It took me 3 days, but I finally found a NAPA with 3/8" trans cooler hose in stock. Then it was 60 minutes of finagling the damn thing in there.
I had to remove the battery and box to access the upper hose connection. Everything was going great on the reinstall until I noticed that the negative battery terminal clamp was split in half. I called Scott Clark Toyota to ask about a replacement...$138...luckily discontinued. I was willing to get reamed for $15 but that's insane. I patched it with a clamp on connector I already had. I'll build a proper cable over the winter.
Next up: 100 Series front pads that have been sitting on my desk for 2 months next to the Slee light harnesses.
--john
I had to remove the battery and box to access the upper hose connection. Everything was going great on the reinstall until I noticed that the negative battery terminal clamp was split in half. I called Scott Clark Toyota to ask about a replacement...$138...luckily discontinued. I was willing to get reamed for $15 but that's insane. I patched it with a clamp on connector I already had. I'll build a proper cable over the winter.
Next up: 100 Series front pads that have been sitting on my desk for 2 months next to the Slee light harnesses.
--john
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You will love the 100 series pads on the front. Last way longer.
