Johnvee's 80 thread
- Thread starter JohnVee
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- #82
Well, first you have to observe the problem for a couple months. Then you fix it with one strand of wire. After that breaks in 30 days, you observe the problem for another couple months. Then you string it up with 3 wires. Next time I'm gonna try a coat hanger.
I found it today. I have 30 dyas to fix it then.
NCFJ
Supporting Vendor
Well, first you have to observe the problem for a couple months. Then you fix it with one strand of wire. After that breaks in 30 days, you observe the problem for another couple months. Then you string it up with 3 wires. Next time I'm gonna try a coat hanger.
See, this is the difference between a shade tree mechanic and someone that does it for a living. I'd have gone straight to heavier gauge wire and 5 wraps right out of the box.
elkaholic
Left turn ...freakin wipers!
Which proves the point that the most important part of any of our trucks is the loose nut behind the wheel that can redneck repair / trail fix the truck with nothing but a leatherman, 200MPH tape, and bailing wire good enough to not only get off the trail, but to drive it home!See, this is the difference between a shade tree mechanic and someone that does it for a living. I'd have gone straight to heavier gauge wire and 5 wraps right out of the box.
There's a ham radio test on May 2nd here in town that I am studying for (just started today).
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- #87
So I guess maybe I'll do the same.
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- #89
New horns. Nothing fancy, just effective. The stock connectors will slide on but it isn't tight or secure, so I'll replace them with some female spades next time I solder something. Maybe I'll clean and paint that bracket, too. Kinda stands out now.
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- #90
I'm making slow progress on my list in post #75. I bought an ARB roof rack I'm waiting to install and finally ordered a rear bumper. Decided to go with the 4x4Labs dual swing out (tire carrier and ladder).
I took a chance and ordered a cheap 25" light bar for the top of the front bumper. I'll take it apart and seal everything before installing it. I'm thinking of putting two 2" LEDs on the rear corners of the roof rack and two of the same lights on the YotaTeq mirror brackets I got.
I also finally adjusted the e-brake screw on the lever to get 9 clicks (instead of running out of travel and still not working) before installing the new lever boot I bought from NCFJ at Xmas. I had pulled the driver's seat out for repair so it was easy access, and the boot just squeezes out through the carpet hole.
@lumbee1 and I snaked in Slee headlight and Aux light harnesses at the Meet & Greet. People claim that it brightens up the low beams; I noticed no difference but I'm running the John Deere low beams which were a huge improvement over stock and might negate the harness benefit (doubt it, though). I plugged in my Bulldog driving lights to the Aux harness and verified that they work but still need to install the switch. I've got to wire up all my new switches and Blue Sea aux fuse block first so I can fish all the wires through at once.
EDIT: @Roxx reminded me that I'll probably need to reevaluate my rear spring setup when the new metal gets mounted. I've got 850J front and 863 rear OME's now. Time to research.
I took a chance and ordered a cheap 25" light bar for the top of the front bumper. I'll take it apart and seal everything before installing it. I'm thinking of putting two 2" LEDs on the rear corners of the roof rack and two of the same lights on the YotaTeq mirror brackets I got.
I also finally adjusted the e-brake screw on the lever to get 9 clicks (instead of running out of travel and still not working) before installing the new lever boot I bought from NCFJ at Xmas. I had pulled the driver's seat out for repair so it was easy access, and the boot just squeezes out through the carpet hole.
@lumbee1 and I snaked in Slee headlight and Aux light harnesses at the Meet & Greet. People claim that it brightens up the low beams; I noticed no difference but I'm running the John Deere low beams which were a huge improvement over stock and might negate the harness benefit (doubt it, though). I plugged in my Bulldog driving lights to the Aux harness and verified that they work but still need to install the switch. I've got to wire up all my new switches and Blue Sea aux fuse block first so I can fish all the wires through at once.
EDIT: @Roxx reminded me that I'll probably need to reevaluate my rear spring setup when the new metal gets mounted. I've got 850J front and 863 rear OME's now. Time to research.
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- #91
Grip tape on the slider tube is a BAD idea. The back of your legs will not get along well with 80-grit when sliding out of the seat.
Hard to see, but notice the two light-colored spots on the tape? Yep, that's skin. Stan has the right idea with the metal mesh on top of the tube.
Hard to see, but notice the two light-colored spots on the tape? Yep, that's skin. Stan has the right idea with the metal mesh on top of the tube.
Yeah. People pay good money at high end spas to get that kind of exfoliation.
NCFJ
Supporting Vendor
John, you can charge $5 a head to rub a woman's face up and down your sliders!! Or even a manscaper type.
John if you want to put expanded metal on yours it really would not take that long to do. I have plenty. I am not soliciting work for the shop.
John if you want to put expanded metal on yours it really would not take that long to do. I have plenty. I am not soliciting work for the shop.
Thats funny, I did the same but mine lasted an afternoon before they where removed. Its just sand paper with backing glue / leg scratching post
You'll learn how to dismount that bad boy while wearing shorts. I have those on my sliders as well and it only took me once to learn. That scrape will stay with your for a day or two.
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- #100
Yeah, I got skills! The torch was to kill the insects living in the frame (and to remove a busted bolt).I'm impressed you were able to chop that rear crossmember with that propane torch
Looks good John!
